Jump to content

Pocket watch hour and minute hands not working


AdamC

Recommended Posts

Hi, this weekend I’ve stripped down a non-working Tell pocket watch, using the balance from another similar Tell model to repair it. After cleaning, reassembling and oiling, I was overjoyed at my first successful repair when it sprung to life after winding. The watch ran fine but I noticed after 12 hours it had lost about 8 minutes. So having reset to the correct time and adjusting the compass to run faster, I thought no more of it. However, after checking half hour later, the minute and hour hands hadn’t shifted, though the second hand was (still is) moving around the dial fine.

 

Being a newbie, I’m wondering if anybody else has experienced this and might have some advice to the cause. I have already done a partial strip down to check the motion and keyless works and visibly everything seems fine.

 

To give you an idea of the pocket watch arrangement, I have posted some photos below.

 

f10c684521161fd26174a3caf28eb7b8.jpge1d9022786d2ff54a463c734c39f94cb.jpg9be8ca497e9fe05a911476d71ae16764.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

p.s., oddly I’ve noticed that the hour and minute hands have began moving after about 30 minutes keeping minute for minute time. It’s almost like some kind of tension has had to work up before the hands have moved. However, if the crown is pulled out to reset to the correct time, the same thing happens - no min/hour hands movement. Confused!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think there's an issue with the canon pinion. I'm not familiar with the movement but it definitely has one. Just don't know how it works for this one. I'm thinking that there's a lack of friction...

Thanks Chopin. I do have a donor watch so I’ll swap the canon pinion over tomorrow and see if that does the trick. Appreciate your thoughts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It might just be the photo but it does look like the hour and minute wheels are not meshing correctly on your pic?

if not as said above it could be the cannon pinion which is too loose, and just slips instead of turning with the centre wheel. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It would help for our understanding if we can have a picture of the dial without the hour wheel in place. A lot of times with watches with sweep second hands it changes how the Canon pinion functions. Sometimes there is a offset drive. For instance I've attached a picture one of yours notice I circled a gear? You don't find this with the normal Canon pinion it looks like a drive wheel. Then look at the gear side notice the mainspring barrel driving the center wheel which isn't in the center? The gear looks like it correspondence with the center wheel that's not in the center? So as a guess here Your pinion isn't on the dial side the friction point is somewhere else.

mystery wheel.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It would help for our understanding if we can have a picture of the dial without the hour wheel in place. A lot of times with watches with sweep second hands it changes how the Canon pinion functions. Sometimes there is a offset drive. For instance I've attached a picture one of yours notice I circled a gear? You don't find this with the normal Canon pinion it looks like a drive wheel. Then look at the gear side notice the mainspring barrel driving the center wheel which isn't in the center? The gear looks like it correspondence with the center wheel that's not in the center? So as a guess here Your pinion isn't on the dial side the friction point is somewhere else.
5a4aa478a3d6c_mysterywheel.JPG.26f52ad2688d18f97fb608447f7a60a4.JPG

That’s a really helpful observation John. I’ll see if I can find a photo without the hour wheel on. I have been monitoring the watch over the past couple of days. The behaviour is weird: set the time to 10 minutes ahead of actual time, press in crown (keyless cog engages with mainspring ratchet wheel, wait 10 minutes while minute hand doesn’t move, then the hand begins moving as normal, keeping time to within 15 minutes per day. I’m no expert but I’m also considering whether the old (original) mainspring is to blame? Explaining why it takes time to build up enough tension to begin turning the wheels once the keyless cog engages after setting the hands? Here’s a view of the opposite side of the centre wheel.
b49e7e8655455f9e5b12268a88759a54.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

When you're setting the watch do you feel any tension at all? 

Then are you trying to run the watch in the case or out of the case? The reason for asking this is with American pocket watches when the movement is out of the case it goes into setting. The watche is in setting when it tries to run that can be an issue. So American pocket watches some of them have mechanisms to put the watch back in the winding out of the case otherwise you have to put it back in the case so it's in the winding position not in the setting position. Basically the watch can't drive the entire setting mechanism when it's running.

Then technically in your picture you are missing the center wheel as the center wheel in this watch isn't in the center. The center wheel is the wheel next the mainspring barrel.

So it be nice to find where the Canon pinion is and very likely doesn't look like a Canon pinion?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

When you're setting the watch do you feel any tension at all? 
Then are you trying to run the watch in the case or out of the case? The reason for asking this is with American pocket watches when the movement is out of the case it goes into setting. The watche is in setting when it tries to run that can be an issue. So American pocket watches some of them have mechanisms to put the watch back in the winding out of the case otherwise you have to put it back in the case so it's in the winding position not in the setting position. Basically the watch can't drive the entire setting mechanism when it's running.
Then technically in your picture you are missing the center wheel as the center wheel in this watch isn't in the center. The center wheel is the wheel next the mainspring barrel.
So it be nice to find where the Canon pinion is and very likely doesn't look like a Canon pinion?

Thanks again John. Yes, I can feel tension when setting the watch. I tested the general running of the watch outside of the case and all seemed fine. I could operate it in both winding and setting positions without issue. Nothing appeared to change after I cased it regarding the actual running and It wasn’t until the hands were attached that I noticed any problem. I have left it in the case since. As a relative newbie, I’m a little confused about where the cannon pinion might be if not the component I thought it was in the centre. The wheel you’ve ringed in the reposted photo is the only one I had to carefully lever off to disassemble and stake it back on during reassembly, and to be honest it took a little more driving home than I expected. Could be the culprit wheel though.

Thanks,
Adam


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thanks for the help guys! VWatchie I already found your thread but I'll check it again. Nice to know about acetone, I still have to get the shellac off since I made a little mess. I adjusted the jewel, put new shellac (the so called soldering technique, pallet tool too hot this time so the shellac "wire" melted in air before getting in contact with jewels or fork) rinsed the pallet fork and put it back dry. Amplitude is now in the 240-250 range that I expected in the first place. I guess there's enough oil in the escape wheel teeth already but I'll check that later. The mainspring was pretty beaten so a new one would probably boost the amplitude even further. Nice to learn new things. Now I have another thing to look for while disassembling. I wonder if the watch left the factory that way. 
    • Would be interesting to see it 🙂
    • These are all American movements (with the exception of the "Rubis"), and are all almost certainly "negative set" which means the stem is part of the case. So it's normal that they are all missing- they are with their cases. You will need male square bench keys to wind/disarm them. Vintagewatchstraps has a great writeup on the different systems. But basically, any American "x" size movement will fit any case for that size, possibly with some adjusting of the stem position. With Swiss movements, there is some interchangeability between calibers, usually within the same maker's range, but not really overall- there are thousands of different stems out there.
    • Hi, I'm very new to watchmaking and this is my first time posting here.  I've bought a lot of 10 vintage pocket watches size 0s from e-bay and just got them today.  Most of the balance wheels sprung quite freely and thus seemed like a worthy endeavor as a first batch for exploration.  I've just realized that none of them have any winding stems. Is there any way I could source appropriate winding stems for the movements? There seems to be assortments of various stems selling in bulk on aliexpress, but would any of them fit?  I've read on other threads that some people lathe their own stems (which is waaaay out of my current skill set, which is pretty much nil). Others say that you 'just have to try a few and see if they fit'. I would much appreciate any advice for this matter. Thanks!
    • Nice work.  In the last year, I have been servicing Accutron 218s.  I have the official Accutron hoder that provides electrical contact to the movement.  It is a pretty clever design.  There is a cut in the ring of the holder (shaped like a "C").  When in relaxed state, the holder is slightly smaller than the watch movement.  You spread the cut slightly and drop the movement in and release.  Very clean.  I have made 3D versions of this setup.  Have not explored using it generally for other movements.
×
×
  • Create New...