Jump to content
chrisbuxton27

My First Staking Set Advice

Recommended Posts

Probably only dirt blocking it.....Perhaps a bristle or soak the plate face down in Napter would shift it. No you dont get something for nothing....Perhaps you never have done but with a positive attitude bargains can still be had. I go to lots of fine art sales where NON gold watches go for bargain prices and houseold auctions which usually involve house clearance items. The customers in the room have no clue what watchmakers tools are let alone the price they should pay.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, oldhippy said:

Have you tried drilling them out? Agree you don't get something for nothing these days.

Yep tried that and just broke the drills. Whatever is in the holes the material is solid and hard. I have just learn't t work around it. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd give ultrasonic a try (if you haven't already) with a solvent.

Regardless of the outcome, remember to re-oil the anvil after unless you are a fan of brown.

 

I have been fortunate in that I have not found a need for a staking set yet. I do not change jewels (which I believe these are for) but I do see some other uses with the larger sets posted... I'm sure I fall in the camp of "replace balance complete" as I know my (current) limits and a hairspring is outside that set of limits.

I did get a bit of time last night and was able to change hands and crystal on my 5512. It's like getting a new watch! (for the price of, well, a new watch...)

 

PS the "compatibility PDF" posted earlier seems to be corrupted. Could that be re-posted perhaps? I'd like to have it for future reference, particularly since I just said "I won't need one", which all but guarantees I will need one tomorrow.

And for the poster looking to use the smaller diameter, shorter stakes in the larger tool, how about a sleeve, or a bored rod of appropriate diameter, which would accept the small short stakes and the top would fit and function in the larger tool? Would that work? (may have to get something made in hardenable steel which might get expensive)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Recently purchased my first staking set the punches and stakes of which are in good condition. On close examination of the anvil I notice quite a large clearance gap between the anvil and the central pivot. (see pic) Although it does not appear to be wear the anvil moves of the central point to some degree and can be locked by the rear finger wheel. Could someone please tell me if this is normal or if I need to start looking for a new tool for my 4.7mm stakes.

P1010027.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How to make your choice when you want to buy / order a staking set?

 

I see that there are many different sets, with a big variation in price...

 

So what to look for?

 

Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Some updates, I measured the  mainspring barrel of a 6498 and it's 16mm. I also tried loading a 10mm mainspring on an undersized winder, it did not load fully. So I answered my own question hehe. thanks.
    • Thanks. A small correction to my earlier post,  it is a Poljot 2614.2H, not a Vostok. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Poljot_2614_2H
    • I've been thinking about getting a Russian watch myself. Nice piece Andy.
    • This is the progress so far. The first image is the ebay seller's pic and the description was "Does not start, maybe battery but unable to confirm". In reality, it wouldn't wind, wouldn't set and the scratched up crystal looked even worse in real life (and the second hand had fallen off in the post), but I figured it had to be the twin of the one I already had, and therefore was well worth the 0.99p I bid.
    • Thanks for the correction regarding the movement. You are spot on  with the fiddly calendar works, the first one I looked at, I launched those two springs more times than I care to mention, however forewarned is forearmed, so this one came as no surprise, and I even remembered which way round everything went without having to dig out my pictures of the first teardown.  If you are aware of the issues and take care to do things very gently, the calendar works go back together reasonably easily. I did mange to gocha myself with the keyless works by pulling the crown out with the stem in the wrong position, but I knew I had been an idiot the moment I did it, so I only managed to indulge in that one screwup. The watch is running well, but I haven't attempted to adjust it yet. Beat error is around .1 to .3ms and it kept up a good pace, within 20 seconds or so over the course of the day even without me tinkering with it. I'll let the lubrication settle and do a bit more with it tomorrow. The amplitude is still a little low at around 240 fully wound, so there is scope for a little improvement in that too. The other one runs around 270, so there is no reason to think this wont. I have an almost complete spare movement, including a mainspring, etc.so if I need parts I have them.   That red and gold Poljot on your "About me" page is a cracker, as are the others in your collection.
×
×
  • Create New...