Jump to content

My First Staking Set Advice

Recommended Posts

Probably only dirt blocking it.....Perhaps a bristle or soak the plate face down in Napter would shift it. No you dont get something for nothing....Perhaps you never have done but with a positive attitude bargains can still be had. I go to lots of fine art sales where NON gold watches go for bargain prices and houseold auctions which usually involve house clearance items. The customers in the room have no clue what watchmakers tools are let alone the price they should pay.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, oldhippy said:

Have you tried drilling them out? Agree you don't get something for nothing these days.

Yep tried that and just broke the drills. Whatever is in the holes the material is solid and hard. I have just learn't t work around it. 

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd give ultrasonic a try (if you haven't already) with a solvent.

Regardless of the outcome, remember to re-oil the anvil after unless you are a fan of brown.


I have been fortunate in that I have not found a need for a staking set yet. I do not change jewels (which I believe these are for) but I do see some other uses with the larger sets posted... I'm sure I fall in the camp of "replace balance complete" as I know my (current) limits and a hairspring is outside that set of limits.

I did get a bit of time last night and was able to change hands and crystal on my 5512. It's like getting a new watch! (for the price of, well, a new watch...)


PS the "compatibility PDF" posted earlier seems to be corrupted. Could that be re-posted perhaps? I'd like to have it for future reference, particularly since I just said "I won't need one", which all but guarantees I will need one tomorrow.

And for the poster looking to use the smaller diameter, shorter stakes in the larger tool, how about a sleeve, or a bored rod of appropriate diameter, which would accept the small short stakes and the top would fit and function in the larger tool? Would that work? (may have to get something made in hardenable steel which might get expensive)

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Recently purchased my first staking set the punches and stakes of which are in good condition. On close examination of the anvil I notice quite a large clearance gap between the anvil and the central pivot. (see pic) Although it does not appear to be wear the anvil moves of the central point to some degree and can be locked by the rear finger wheel. Could someone please tell me if this is normal or if I need to start looking for a new tool for my 4.7mm stakes.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Welcome to the forum.
    • Your original description reminded me of a recent problem I had with a different movement.  I switched screws.......The head on the screw holding the pallet cock turned out to look the same, but had a minutely thicker head.  This caught the balance and stopped it.  I felt really silly but it was a very rewarding fix!
    • If you didn't clean the balance jewels introducing fresh oil could dislodge the old gummed up oil and make things worse. I'm afraid you you wont make much progress without cleaning the balance jewels. Assuming you have checked that all jewels are clean and balance pivots are not bent bu the problem still persists,... I would check the endshake of the balance. A watch this old may have had the balance staff replaced and the replacement may not have been an exact fit. On most watches you can adjust the endshake a bit by pushing the jewel housing in the mainplate up or down a bit (using a staking set). Note that this may change the interface between roller jewel and pallet fork so this needs to be considered. On larger mens watches you can sometimes get a screwdriver between the hairspring coils to remove the jewels but on these smaller ladies watches its not so easy. Good luck Anilv
    • Hello all, Imnew to the group, been collecting for only a short time. saw Marks youtube vids, and gave a crack at the basic course. I've retired from the open heart team and very used to working with loops on mm objects. This subject of watchmaking has always interested me, but family and work always to precedence.
    • I have a Solution - Clear nail polish Find an inconspicuous spot then under magnification put a small drop on the tip of a pin and try to mix it into the plastic. If it polish changes colour you have your glue if not, let it set to see how well it adheres anyway. If above fails try another brand - nail polish is just a solution designed to dissolve shiny plastics an their additives.
  • Create New...