Jump to content

My First Staking Set Advice


Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...

I just wanted to add where I purchased my staking set from, as I was so impressed by the service I recieved.

It's an online store "Watchtoolsonline" (you can click that name to link to the shop). 

 

A great bloke named Keith runs the shop, and his customer service is par-excellence.  His tools may not be as cheap as ones on fleabay, but everything he sells he personally inspects for quality and he doesn't sell worn out or rusty gear; the equipment he sells has been well looked after.

 

Also one major point is the way he packs the goods he ships out ... some of the best packaging I've seen from an online store!!

All the stakes were packed in little baggies (all individuals named on the bags), then bubble wrapped, and packed separate from the wooden box.  And inside the box was dense foam cut to length for a perfect fit.  Just outstanding!!

 

Nice to know some people still take pride in the way they sell.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a good recommendation Lawson, when mine was delivered (EBay) the wooden box had been damaged in transport due to lack of proper packing. Luckily I was able to do a good repair and refinish.

I'll be saving your recommended supplier for future use. Many thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Old post, but I just got a small K and D set for $110 shipped. Comes straight from a watchmaker's store, is complete, and according to the seller, in very good condition. Will see... I have 2 watches that will be happy to see it come in, and my first balance staff replacement coming !!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I think I am going to invest in a staking set and I have come across a cd for sale on ebay that might be worthwhile. It is a copy of a 106 page manual  by K&D and is titled Staking Tools And How To Use Them. I imagine it is something like a workshop manual for a staking set. I just thought it might be very instructional for a new owner like myself. I just wondered whether anybody has read it and could recommend it. It will work out around 20GBP from the states. I don't mind the price if it is going to be useful, considering how much a good set can cost, I would like to have some reference material to learn about all of the different tools and their uses.

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was lucky enough to acquire a complete mint K&D set years ago with all the jeweling tools as well on eBay. I have that CD in book form and it's okay and gives a rudimentary use of the set. The better book, although pricy, which covers all the specialized K&D stake/stump/procedure such as jeweling reams, stakes, stumps and micrometer attachment as well as things like the Waltham tapered staff set is this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-The-Watchmakers-Staking-Tool-High-quality-pro-printed-crisp-clean-Rare-book-/271447550319?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f3388e96f

And George Daniels book "Watchmaking" which covers most staking uses and a whole lot more.
 

Also, see my post in this thread:

 

http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/1074-staking/

 

Hope this helps :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is ordered, thank you. 

I'll defiantly enjoy reading this, at work we have two very nice vintage staking sets that get used for nothing more than awkward bracelet work, making custom pins, and occasionally for working on hands. but there's a whole range of strange, unusual stakes and dies, that I honestly couldn't guess as to the intended purpose/potential use. 

Also sorry i completely brushed past the link to that eBay page when I commented.

Edited by Ishima
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the link to the pdf. I will have a good read through it. The other book on ebay definitely looks worth buying too. Might go for that one, as I was willing to pay for the one in your post.

Thanks so much, can't wait to get reading!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was looking for a good copy of this a few months ago, and contacted one of the people who had organised a reprint of it. He informed me that, if I didn't mind spending a bit more money, all the relevant information from this book is included as a chapter in Archie Perkins Antique Watch Restoration Vol. I. I haven't bought it yet, but it seems like a good idea.

Stephen

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was wanting to buy a complete staking set from cousins. It is only £155.00. Does it come with a manual? And will it help with jeweling?

I have finally figured out how to order on Cousins. That might make sense if you have read a post I put up in the past.

The reference number is S39653 from Cousins.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Edited by diamondslayer
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I advise trying to get a vintage one, for as much or less, even if it's a little rusty and a couple of stakes are broken, the quality difference will be huge, I got the bergeon staking set that's about £800 new for about £100 second hand, (I'm not sure I could get a deal that good again, but I would certainly try)

As far as I'm aware I wouldn't expect manuals to be included.

I've used the inexpensive modern made burgeon staking set that belonged to a colleage, that one I believe is the one you're referring to, and I wasn't impressed. (it will still get the job done, mind you.)

Edited by Ishima
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was wanting to buy a complete staking set from cousins. It is only £155.00. Does it come with a manual? And will it help with jeweling?

I have finally figured out how to order on Cousins. That might make sense if you have read a post I put up in the past.

The reference number is S39653 from Cousins.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

No idea about the quality of the Indian set from Cousins, but the stakes are not the standard size for such sets, 4.7mm. This would mean that they are not interchangeable as most stakes in other sets are, and you would not be able to add other stakes you might want. I wouldn't expect a manual, and for jewelling you would either need a separate jewelling set, or one of the combined staking/jewelling sets available.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...
  • 1 year later...

Hi,

I am looking for a used staking tool. I found quite a few on ebay, but on many, the punches are in a bad condition.

What do you think of this one from Boley for 225 EUR?

http://www.ebay.de/itm/CSI-Uhrmacher-TRIEBNIETMASCHINE-mit-Zubehor-Uhrmacherwerkstatt-watchmaker-tool-/132041785702?hash=item1ebe4dc166:g:vp8AAOSw6DtYTczj

s-l500.jpg

s-l1600 (1).jpg

s-l1600.jpg

Thanks and a Merry Christmas to everyone!

Alexander

 

Edited by AlexanderB
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Got another one today! It took 10 weeks, but finally arrived. Fairly complete but I added the pivot guage. The burnisher and bow came with the tool. The case is a bit rough and the tool pretty dirty, but trying to decide how much I want to restore.
    • OK, so long story short, I'm working my way through Mark's courses using a "Sea-gul ST36" (or ST3600 from some vendors) AKA an ETA 6497 clone. as a practice piece.  I've had it fully appart and cleaned it, and have had it fully back together an "running", but only briefly as my oil hadn't arrived at the time.  In the course of that work, I saw no markings on the movement that would tell me if it was a true Sea-gul or just a clone of their clone of the original ETA movement. Well, fast forward to this weekend, when my oils arrived in my mailbox and I sat down to try my hand at oiling.  Everything was going swimmingly until I got to the shock setting on the top of the balance cock.  I was able to open the lyre spring without issue, but in attempting to swing the open to access the cap jewel and chaton, I apparently accidentally pressed the launch button as I sent the lyre spring into low earth orbit.  Like most things that make into such orbits it came back down at a place not too far from where it started, but of course that also means that it is no longer in the setting. So my task is now to get said spring back into setting.  What I have read so far tells me that I seem to have two options: Another thread here seems to indicate that the spring came out without taking the balance cock apart, therefore it should go back without the need for that procedure.  That seems a bit pie in the sky for me, but the posts in said thread also gave some high level information about how to get the spring back in (putting it at an angle to the channel cut in the cock and canted so that the tabs fit in the slots, followed by some "wiggling" to get it turned around the right direction.)  I've tried this a couple of times, which have lead to more trips to low earth orbit, but with successful recovery of the orbital vehicle after each trip.  This thread also suggests that what I did to cause the initial launch was to push the spring "back" with more pressure on one side than the other, which put it under tension and caused it to deform out the slot either on one side or at the end (where there is apparently no "back stop".) The other option appears to be varying degrees of disassembly of the balance cock.  Some things I've read suggest that the whole shock setting needs to come out, while other threads here suggest that I only need to remove the regulator arm and the arm carrying the balance stud.  After the last trip the spring made, this is seeming like a better option, but I'm super short on details on how to do what needs to be done.  if I am following correctly: I need to loose the balance spring stud screw so the stud is not held in the arm. I need to somehow disengage the balance spring from the regulator (all the regulators I've seen in videos look nothing like what I see on the balance cock I have.)  What I've seen on the interwebs is a couple of "pins" that the spring passes through.  What I see on my assembly is something that looks more like a single pin with a "V" shaped notch cut in the bottom of it.  The spring is secured in that notch with something that I guessed was glue, Posts here suggest that on some of these movements glue is in fact used.  So I'm trying to figure out how to tell, how to soften dissolve it (I'm guessing IPA or acetone) and how to put it back when I'm done (superglue?  UV glue?) With the spring detached from the cock, I've read that the regulator and stud carrier are basically glorified C clamps around the shock setting and that one removes them by slipping a razor blade under one side of each and prizing them up.  I assume that they go back in the reverse manner like another C clamp, but that again is only a guess.  The place I got this information from seemed to leave that bit out. Once I have one or both arms off the shock setting the above mentioned post seemed to indicate that I could just slide the spring back in the slot, though again, I'm interpolating between the lines I read.  The alternative that I've seen demonstrated on high end movements on Youtube is to remove the entire shock setting and to replace the spring from "underneath" rotating the setting so that spring basically falls into place. I'm not anxious to try this method, as I don't have a jeweling tool to put the shock setting back into place.  That not to mention that the professional watch maker who did the demonstration described "fiddly work." So at the end of the day I'm looking for a little guidance on which pathway to follow, or if I've missed something obvious, a new direction to follow.  If this is a repair that just need to wait until my skills improve I'm totally good with that, I can get another of these movements in relatively short order, I just don't want to treat this one as disposable, and I do want to make an honest effort at fixing it and learning from this experience. Thank you in advance for reading my ramblings and for any suggestions that you might have!
    • All the best, family always comes first, and I believe you have made the right call that you mother deserves your full attention. However, when you need a little outside distraction the guys here will always be available for some banter or a heated discussion on lubrication 🤣.
    • Wire for what? if it's steel then only certain types of steel can be hardened ie high carbon steels: "Mild steel doesn't harden very well. It doesn't have enough carbon. Get something like O1, silver steel or if you want to go full watchmaker, then Sandvik 20AP". Source
    • I'm wondering if there's any specific type of wire I should get for hardening? I would assume it doesn't matter as long as the wire doesn't melt before it is at temp. 
×
×
  • Create New...