Jump to content

My First Staking Set Advice


Recommended Posts

3 minutes ago, Nucejoe said:

I guess the moderators would let good members get by this time, yet thought I should inform you, 

Well,  surely moderators will consider that you are new:geek:, I think mentioning a price goes against forums policies period. 

It is already posted only a moderator can take it down.   Don,t worry.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...
16 hours ago, Dpastl said:

Wow, congrats!  I'm super jealous, I've been looking on ebay for months now trying to find one.  Perhaps i should browse the local pawn and antique shops!

I did pick up the other set. If your interested in a trade pm me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Hi All,

Newbie here and I posted this question on someone else's thread in this forum and am not sure if I could do that so I've started a new discussion. Admins please delete if I did something wrong here.

My local thrift shop has this vintage used Boley staking set. Photos below. Do you think it's worth £95 / USD$120? Any advice is appreciated. Cheers.

Mo

1.jpg

2.jpg

3.jpg

4.jpg

5.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There looks to be many missing stakes and plugs. New stakes/plugs can be bought from good suppliers. Have a good look at what you might buy, Do the stakes line up with the holes in the bass, make sure there not blocked, the same goes for the stakes. Looks like it all needs a good clean, this can be done and it should then look fine. You can also find second hand stakes on ebay. The price is fair. Just make sure it all works and moves free.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

There looks to be many missing stakes and plugs. New stakes/plugs can be bought from good suppliers. Have a good look at what you might buy, Do the stakes line up with the holes in the bass, make sure there not blocked, the same goes for the stakes. Looks like it all needs a good clean, this can be done and it should then look fine. You can also find second hand stakes on ebay. The price is fair. Just make sure it all works and moves free.

Thanks for the advice. I will check it out. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, oldhippy said:

There looks to be many missing stakes and plugs. New stakes/plugs can be bought from good suppliers. Have a good look at what you might buy, Do the stakes line up with the holes in the bass, make sure there not blocked, the same goes for the stakes. Looks like it all needs a good clean, this can be done and it should then look fine. You can also find second hand stakes on ebay. The price is fair. Just make sure it all works and moves free.

Hi OH, I can think of trying each stake with a right size staff to see if things line up with the holes in the base. How else can we check for alignments.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Make sure this part (red arrow) isn’t damaged and can lock and be freed. Some types cannot be moved so check for damage. You need to have the most pointed stake and see it it lines up center to the holes (black arrow) make sure none of the holes are damaged and not blocked. The black arrow part must be able to be un-locked and locked. All punches should be able to fit into the stand with ease. Keeping the stakes in good order and the plugs will also help in the work you will undertake when using this type of tool. It is quite easy to clean the stakes/plugs with very emery cloth or the sticks, if you have a lathe it’s even better. Don’t forget this type of tool is used a lot for watch work such as b/staffs, jeweling and riveting just to name a few. Yes if you do not have a jeweling tool but you have the right punches with a stacking tool you can use it for that. The main thing is make sure things line up.     

Excellent-watchmakers-BOLEY-STAKING-SET-riveting-punching-_1.jpg

  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
On 10/13/2014 at 5:50 PM, bobm12 said:

Update:

 

For those that would like to add stakes and punches to their staking tool, I came across a "cross reference" apparently useful...

 

Cross-over-punches.pdf 1.02 MB · 139 downloads

 

Good morning Bob. @bobm12

Maybe it's posted again later in this thread, but I was unable to download this file. I'd like to have a copy of this cross reference please!

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Polish it where the old part cracked as well. Get rid of the stress-raisers.
    • Sounds great! And yes, I would use grease for the keyless as well although treating the parts with epilame would make the grease less likely to spread in the long run. Not critical but won’t hurt. My current strategy is to epilame treat all parts getting in contact with oil or grease.
    • Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.       I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
    • I'm going to give this a try today/tomorrow on my UTC33/Seiko 66, thanks!
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
×
×
  • Create New...