Jump to content

Particles on Rolex dial


OCSfan

Recommended Posts

Wondering whether anyone else had experienced this. I repaired a colleagues Rolex after she smashed it in a fall, serviced, refitted rotor and fitted new glass. The plastic seal that arrived with the Sternkreuzer glass was too thick so I refitted the old seal. Watch us running really well and has been on the wrist for a few weeks but large amounts of debriefs formed on the dial, hands and glass. In inspection it looks like small particles or shavings of plastic, I can only think this us coming from the refitted seal, any thoughts gratefully appreciated.

DSC_0013.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It would seem to me that it is the result of consistent scraping on something plastic. That would lead me to believe that the outside of the rotor might be scraping on a seal, or?



Great thought but I can’t see the movement being powerful enough to push through causing such debris. I’d expect it to stop, or at the very least speed up significantly while losing amplitude.

May be a good idea to put on timing machine and see what it does.


Cheers





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It may be some sort of parallax error, but it looks to me like the luminous dots are smaller on part of the dial. I don't know how long the second hand is, but could it be "off-plane", and chipping off tiny pieces of the luminous as it passes those dots? If the second hand is long enough to hit them, I'd hold it under a light for a while then go into darkness and see if the debris glows. Far-fetched?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, MrRoundel said:

It may be some sort of parallax error, but it looks to me like the luminous dots are smaller on part of the dial. I don't know how long the second hand is, but could it be "off-plane", and chipping off tiny pieces of the luminous as it passes those dots? If the second hand is long enough to hit them, I'd hold it under a light for a while then go into darkness and see if the debris glows. Far-fetched?

 

7 minutes ago, MrRoundel said:

It may be some sort of parallax error, but it looks to me like the luminous dots are smaller on part of the dial. I don't know how long the second hand is, but could it be "off-plane", and chipping off tiny pieces of the luminous as it passes those dots? If the second hand is long enough to hit them, I'd hold it under a light for a while then go into darkness and see if the debris glows. Far-fetched?

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It looks to me that the top layer of gloss lacquer on the dial is delaminated from the dial if the seal around the crystal is incorrect and moisture has entered the watch, did you pressure test the watch after fitting the new crystal?. The bezel has been refitted incorrectly any way the hour markers do not line up with the bezel and the double size bezel maker should be at the 12 o'clock postion and not at 9 o'clock as shown  and the gap between dial and rehuat looks too great.

Looking at the watch as it is I would suggest there is no effective seal around the crystal at all.

Edited by wls1971
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, wls1971 said:

It looks to me that the top layer of gloss lacquer on the dial is delaminated from the dial if the seal around the crystal is incorrect and moisture has entered the watch, did you pressure test the watch have fitting the new crystal?. The bezel has been refitted incorrectly any way the hour markers do not line up with the bezel and the double size bezel maker should be at the 12 o'clock postion and not at 9 o'clock as shown  and the gap between dial and rehuat looks too great.

Looking at the watch as it is I would suggest there is no effective seal around the crystal at all.

Woops, hadn't noticed that. Now you've pointed out the misalignment it looks awful and I will refit correctly, thank you.

I'm not sure that the debris is getting in, I will check the hands etc, there is mo delamination of the lacquer, just some scratches frothed previous broken glass occurring during her accident.

I'll order a couple of replacement seals and have another go at fitting the glass and bezel (correctly).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did the previous glass shatter? I’ve seen terrible things happen when glass gets into a movement. But that’s presumably all removed since servicing. 

My first guess would have been the auto rotor colliding with something, but I’m not that familiar with the build of these watches. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
    • this is something I've never quite understood about the some of the Swiss companies. In 1957 Omega was using 9010 for the keyless parts with epilam. there's been a slow migration towards using heavier lubrication's but still typically oils and epilam to keep them in place. When it seems like 9504 works so much better.  
    • OK, welcome in the world of alarm clocks... I guess the 4th wheel is dished because it is from another movement. If it was not dishet, then it would not mesh with the pinion of the escape wheel, am I right? The marks of wear on the 4th wheel pinion doesn't corespond to the 3th wheel table position, at list this is what i see on the picts. Calculating the rate is easy - there is a formula - BR = T2 x T3 x T4 x T5 x 2 /(P3 x P4 x P5) where T2 - T5 are the counts of the teeth of the wheels tables, and P3 - P5 are the counts of the pinion leaves. Vibrating the balance is easy - grasp for the hairspring where it should stay in the regulator with tweasers, let the balance hang on the hairspring while the downside staff tip rests on glass surface. Then make the balance oscillate and use timer to measure the time for let say 50 oscillations, or count the oscillations for let say 30 seconds. You must do the free oscillations test to check the balance staff tips and the cone cup bearings for wear. This kind of staffs wear and need resharpening to restore the normal function of the balance.
    • Glue a nut to the barrel lid, insert a bolt, pull, disolve the glue.  Maybe someone will have a better answer. 
×
×
  • Create New...