Hi everyone, I have some problems with a manual winding watch. It needs some work but I would try to do it myself. The watch appears fully wound but it doesn't work. Which is the problem? Thank you in advance
I work a lot on small caliber (ladies watch size) movements but still have mishaps with the balance hairspring. These hairsprings are very fragile and easily bent and removing/replacing the balance assembly seems to be my problem. I would like any comments on the risks of deforming the hairspring by allowing the wheel to dangle during handling. I would also like to know if the position of the regulator arm/pins has any effect re risk of deforming the spring, should it be close to the stud or as far a possible from the stud, I normally leave it where I find it so the timing is close to what it was before dis-assembly. Any advice on techniques etc will be much appreciated.
I am correcting a deformed hairspring and need to set the curve for the regulator pins. De Carle mentions using curve-forming tweezers, which I cannot yet find. What are the alternate practices for forming this curved portion of the over curve?
Hi again all,
since there are some really knowledgeable people here I hope you can impart some wisdom regarding repairing a bent hair spring. after getting this old movement working again with the help of this group (new mainspring), I need a little more advice.
after hooking this beaut up to watch-a-scope it shows low amplitude and very erratic trace. I can see the hairspring is bent and need to start here in addressing the issue.
What tools are needed (not willing to spend £50 on hairspring levers at the moment)? I have basic tools (enough to service a movement), but what are the essentials for working on a hairspring? i.e for removing from a balance safely what tweezers types/sizes are recommended for correction etc.
Also, is there an easy way to identify and obtain replacement hairsprings? I assume they are very interchangeable as it would not have been easy to make new hairsprings for every watch model.
I have been wondering about the chonometer grades of the 2824 and 2892 movements. I understand there are different grades depending on the parts used and the plus or minus tolerances of time accuracy in seconds per day. My question is if one had a sw200 or eta 2824 or 2892 and they were standard grade can a watchmaker upgrade those movements with parts to chonometer? Does anyone offer that service? I am very interested. Thank you
Is the rotor of a 2824 movement compatible with an sw200? I see gold after market rotors on ebay and other sites for 2824 but my watch runs an sw200. Some says sw200 is a clone of 2824 and parts are interchangeable and some state no. Does anyone know definitively regarding the rotor? Thanx
That hairspring looks great, good job!
As for the amplitude (and stopping in 30 seconds?), I suppose you've checked all the usual things, train freedom, endshakes everywhere, peg your holes especially for the fork pivots, check that the barrel has shake on its arbor and the lid is well seated.