Jump to content

Loupe / eyeglass / eyepiece


Recommended Posts

7 hours ago, AndyHull said:

They are pretty useful too I have one in the office.

I think the order of usefulness of different magnifiers goes something like this.

With my naked eye, I can see the watch and tell the time.

With my reading glasses I can appreciate the texture of the dial, and do simple tasks, like fit a winding stem and hands.

With an additional pair of glasses I can lift and re-fit a balance, work with most bridges, align pivots and so forth.

With the illuminated desk magnifier and my reading glasses, and some fine tweezers and a couple of pins I can do more delicate work, like sorting out hairsprings.

RIMG0595.thumb.JPG.d4177590285a63c9cfa63dc44b6108f5.JPG
With 2 pairs of 3.5 reading glasses (or a head magnifier or better still the 10x loupe) I can examine the general state of the pivots, judge the level of dirt on the jewels.

RIMG0597.thumb.JPG.5a0f2c719758d64cd45e9324e11905b9.JPG

With my optical microscope at its lowest magnification I can examine the actual wear on the pivots, jewels etc.

RIMG0591.thumb.JPG.cb3e5f82ebb442113e8ce232c06b16bd.JPG


With the next stage, I can see the surface detail of the metal finish on individual watch teeth, and the smallest of debris, and globs of gunk trapped between the teeth.

RIMG0592.thumb.JPG.b46ea622bac88fc33c6b5fc73879a5b5.JPG

The maximum optical magnification lets me see the structure of the fungal spores on the surface of the dial. :D

RIMG0594.thumb.JPG.27d9fc4f4f4e3b9876437d9400ececbe.JPG

... and finally, with my naked eye I can see that this work area is in serious need of a tidy again. :P Fortunately this is generally *not* where I tend to work on the delicate stuff, but I know what my next task is.

Thanks so much Andy 

Definitely a great set up in stages of magnification 

The microscope is awesome.  I look forward to building up my " magnification station " lol 

I guess if you can't see it,  you can't clean it 

Or repair it, this really teaches me the  importance of good lighting and magnification 

This is one aspect of repair where shortcuts don't help 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, m1ks said:

I have a selection of loupes but really only use the 2.5 and 7.5 for closer work and inspection, very very occasionally a stronger one for close detailed inspection.

Thanks m1ks 

I'll be getting a 2.5 soon ;)

Atleast will give me around 4 inches of clearance from the work 

I have a 10X that I use for inspection 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/24/2019 at 10:55 AM, chrisdt said:

http://www.brunelmicroscopes.co.uk/longarm.html

Have a look at these....I'm in the UK but I'm sure I have seen the advertised in the US

Chris,

 

Thanks - I decided to go with the Long Arm scope option. I just ordered today - so, I don't have it yet, but pretty sure I will be happy with that decision.

 

I found an AmScope (SM-1BSX-64S) that looked like a good choice. Though would have been nice to be able to look through a number of options first.

 

BTW - I tried to order something from BHER Optical, but they seem to be out of business. I was able to place an order - but haven't been able to get a response from anyone. So now going through the process of getting my money back.

 

-Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the cheap Chinese version with digital screen. It works well for me but I spin the scope 180 degrees so that I'm working off the table rather than the little base. This makes it top heavy so I have a tin of lead shot on the base to balance it.

I usually use an A4 sheet of card with a couple of datum points marked on it to place the job on so that I don't have to move tiny parts around trying to get them under the scope.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, eezy said:

I have the cheap Chinese version with digital screen. It works well for me but I spin the scope 180 degrees so that I'm working off the table rather than the little base. This makes it top heavy so I have a tin of lead shot on the base to balance it.

I usually use an A4 sheet of card with a couple of datum points marked on it to place the job on so that I don't have to move tiny parts around trying to get them under the scope.

Thanks Eezy,

I may flip mine 180 too - will just have to see how well it works as-is.

Definitely looking forward to seeing how well it works compared to the Visor that I have (OptiVisor).

Which, for me, is practically worthless. No working distance - and view is very distorted.

-Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/9/2019 at 9:34 PM, eezy said:

I have the cheap Chinese version with digital screen. It works well for me but I spin the scope 180 degrees so that I'm working off the table rather than the little base. This makes it top heavy so I have a tin of lead shot on the base to balance it.

Are you referring to something like this eezy? Cordless Digital Microscope

This looks like it might be a useful solution for me, but I can't work out what you mean about spinning the scope 180 degrees. Could you describe this further, or post a pic of your setup?

I currently use a cheap flexible magnifier with led lighting built in, which works okay - but I could do with more magnification and a solution with a screen seems a good way to go.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 minutes ago, N0bby said:

Are you referring to something like this eezy? Cordless Digital Microscope

This looks like it might be a useful solution for me, but I can't work out what you mean about spinning the scope 180 degrees. Could you describe this further, or post a pic of your setup?

I currently use a cheap flexible magnifier with led lighting built in, which works okay - but I could do with more magnification and a solution with a screen seems a good way to go.

Yes but mine is this one. 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/600X-3-6MP-USB-Digital-Microscope-4-3-Display-LCD-Electronic-HD-Video-Stand-Kit/183572621415?epid=21026543881&hash=item2abdc7e867:g:kdMAAOSwM7Fcqz8d

 

Using it as in the pic, you are working on the small base area. If you turn the whole lot around as if you are looking at the back and then turn the screen and scope  around to face you, you are not restricted to working on that small base. At that though it will be top heavy so you need to place a counter balance weight on the little base to stop it falling over. 

I also work off a piece of yellow card marked with datum lines so I can focus the scope and place tiny parts exactly in the spot under the scope.

If that doesn't help I'll have to set it up and post a pic.

(Nearly forgot to add the pics, video and battery life are excellent. Reckon my battery lasts about 6 hours)

Edited by eezy
Omission
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

PaulnKC,

I went through the same thing a number of years ago. The device that worked the best for me was definitely a microscope. Low power loupes have a decent range of focus but as the magnification increases the range of focus decreases. At 20X any head movement will throw the watch movement out of focus. Since the microscope lenses are fixed in a frame, you can examine  parts at 40X with no problems. Also, your eyes emit vapor which will fog up the loupe. I would vote for the microscope hands down.

david

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, eezy said:

Using it as in the pic, you are working on the small base area. If you turn the whole lot around as if you are looking at the back and then turn the screen and scope  around to face you, you are not restricted to working on that small base. At that though it will be top heavy so you need to place a counter balance weight on the little base to stop it falling over. 

Ahh... Yes, now I see what you mean! Thanks very much for taking the trouble to explain that eezy, and for the link too. That's great - I'll get one of those ordered and give it a try. You really can't have too many incoming packages from Ebay in this hobby... 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, david said:

PaulnKC,

I went through the same thing a number of years ago. The device that worked the best for me was definitely a microscope. Low power loupes have a decent range of focus but as the magnification increases the range of focus decreases. At 20X any head movement will throw the watch movement out of focus. Since the microscope lenses are fixed in a frame, you can examine  parts at 40X with no problems. Also, your eyes emit vapor which will fog up the loupe. I would vote for the microscope hands down.

david

David,

Yeah - I received mine on Friday. I set it up over the weekend and I am thrilled with the results. Very sharp and distortion-free field of view.

I will probably have to set up a separate - lower height - table for the scope though. As the working distance and height of the scope don't match my regular work surface height. But that's not hard to solve. I am just happy that I have a really nice sharp, comfortable view to work with.

The AmScope "SM-1BSX-64S" is a 3.5x to 45x zoom with a nice bright (adjustable) LED ring light. The magnification range can be altered with accessory lenses, but I don't think I'll need to do that.

I can see where using one with screen display would nice. As you wouldn't have to have your  head positioned over the eyepieces. Which means no effect on your seated position or work surface height.

-Paul

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

PaulnKC

Glad you have found something your happy with. I use mine all the time now and rarely use a loupe. I sometimes wonder if I should have spent a bit more and got an auto zoom. Its ok when the watch is flat everything is sharp and in focus but when you stand the watch on its edge for say removing dial screws you have to wind back the focus. Ive also noticed that when using a loupe click springs fly away and you usually know the direction. Using a microscope they just 'disappear'

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Having looked at the advice and solutions here, I'm going to try a slightly different approach and see how it goes. I didn't really want to spend money on a small screen when I have big screen phones and iPads around the place - so I've ordered this wi-fi zoom microscope from Ebay to hook up to my iPad. It's 1080p too, because I noticed that most of the integrated camera/screen combos were low resolution.

When it arrives I'll report back on whether I get it set up so it's a useful tool. If it isn't, at least it'll be something for the grandchildren to play with!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Glad I found this topic as I was going to order some head band style magnifiers. Definitely will be taking a look at microscopes after seeing that a lot are happy with it. I agree, the 'eye height' has to be taken in to affect with different work surfaces. With 10X plus your holding the parts in your hand, or your bending over looking at them on the bench.

I'll post also if/when I find something that works for me. Keep the thread alive, we/I need it!

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/16/2019 at 8:29 PM, George19 said:

Glad I found this topic as I was going to order some head band style magnifiers. Definitely will be taking a look at microscopes after seeing that a lot are happy with it. I agree, the 'eye height' has to be taken in to affect with different work surfaces. With 10X plus your holding the parts in your hand, or your bending over looking at them on the bench.

I'll post also if/when I find something that works for me. Keep the thread alive, we/I need it!

 

George,

Glad that you found it useful.

I am with you - I think this is important info. I wish that I had found this before I purchased my visor. 

-Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
On 3/24/2019 at 6:18 PM, PaulnKC said:

Wow - I would never have thought of that. I will have to investigate this (if I don't find something more "off the shelf" first)

The point is, our eyes can adapt to the eye piece, regardless of our best option.

Even if we personally try the loup prior to purchase, our decision would be based on the information at our brains disposal at the time. Specialists know more than we do about eyes, what little feedback specialist get from us is not neccessarily correct. Try it at home, imropve our feedback.

 You emphasised having weak eyes while seeking advice. So I recommended investing in your eyes first , tools come next. Best wishes joe

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So just to quickly update this conversation with my own experience to date. I got the wireless connecting microscope I mentioned above, and... It'll make a neat toy for the grandkids. The picture is pretty bad, with a lot of edge chromatic aberration due to the plastic optics. And the small options for setting the device resolution mean that the picture is out of whack on an iDevice, due to them not having standard HD resolutions. Obviously you get what you pay for - and this is essentially a toy.

I'm inclined to just practice more with and get used to wearing a headband magnifier (I wear glasses, so need something that caters for them). Can anyone recommend a good model of the headband variety? Again I went for the cheapo option when I bought one, and it's both uncomfortable and quite flimsy (the hinged lens holder has a habit of swinging loose at critical moments...)

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

The point is, our eyes can adapt to the eye piece, regardless of our best option.

Even if we personally try the loup prior to purchase, our decision would be based on the information at our brains disposal at the time. Specialists know more than we do about eyes, what little feedback specialist get from us is not neccessarily correct. Try it at home, imropve our feedback.

 You emphasised having weak eyes while seeking advice. So I recommended investing in your eyes first , tools come next. Best wishes joe

 

????

Invest what in my eyes?

I have spent at least tens of thousands of dollars on my eyes and their medical and optical attention over my lifetime - thus far.

I don't have weak eyes - I have poor eyesight. Main issue is nearsightedness. Also some astigmatism in each eye. Now, being well over 50, I have some farsightedness on top of the stuff I was born with.

I'm not complaining - LOTS of people have the same issues. Including (I suspect) lots of folks on this forum.

What exactly do you mean when you say invest in your eyes?

-Paul

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, PaulnKC said:

????

Invest what in my eyes?

I have spent at least tens of thousands of dollars on my eyes and their medical and optical attention over my lifetime - thus far.

I don't have weak eyes - I have poor eyesight. Main issue is nearsightedness. Also some astigmatism in each eye. Now, being well over 50, I have some farsightedness on top of the stuff I was born with.

I'm not complaining - LOTS of people have the same issues. Including (I suspect) lots of folks on this forum.

What exactly do you mean when you say invest in your eyes?

-Paul

 

Ah - now I see what you referring to. I didn't connect your most recent post with your earlier suggestion about using dental/medical/commercial eye-ware. My apologies. It had been too long since - at least for me to remember.

I still think that's a great idea.

Having said that - I am really happy with the long-arm microscope solution.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hi All - I started making a newbee tool list, learning from others like Davey57 who upgraded to the next level without going overboard and wished he had made the jump to “better” tools from start. Dave help me in choosing screwdrivers and tweesers - Thx Dave!

I am looking for loupe(s) with a nice glass. From experience in another hobby, I learned a nice less magnified glass is better than a lesser glass quality at higher magnification.

Read about B&S, Bergeon, ASCO,  Horotec and others brands. Which loop has the best and clearer less distortion glass from edge to edge ?

Lastly, and maybe I should create a new topic for this one, which better quality tools (Brand and model) you wish you had purchased before going for lesser quality as a newbee ?

Thank you for your input ... AJ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, Tmuir said:

I have several Bergeon loupes and I'm happy with all of them unlike the cheap Anchor ones I originally bought which where crap.

That means they are genuine unlike the fake one that the tools guy sold me at the HK fair, pure crap worse than Anchor. I have the link for an alternative not expensive one from Switzerland but never got the will to get it after all, I really should. 

Edited by jdm
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Tmuir: I appreciate your input. Will look into Bergeon more closely. 

@jdm: Could you omease post link for Swiss loupe alternative. May it could help me and others as well.

Does anyone have Horotec loupe experience ?  I understand they are more expensive but from experience, good glass does not come cheap and is certainly worth the comfort and definition it brings. Also better for eyesight, not having to squint :) 

Thank you... AJ 

Edited by ajdo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I just can't beleive my luck. A landeron 48 chrono in working order for $10US or £7.83. Picked it out of a box at a swap meet this morning. Seemed gummed up and not working. Messing with it proceeded to drop it on the ground, lucky it hit my foot first and seems to have survived. Only has 2 lugs, but they are on the top of the watch case. Is plated brass so not sure if new lugs can be added or not. Here is what it looked like out of the box. Then I got it home and started messing with it and changed out the crystal and went through it. Appears to need just a servicing and case work. The best for last is the dial is pretty spectacular! No water damage. Anyone hear of Dorex? Is 33.8mm not including crown and pushers.
    • With all the good and valuable reading recommended here, I strongly support your spirit of continuing to practice and getting your hands dirty. Keep going!  Just a little thing. The lift angle for ST36 should be 44 degrees. So the true amplitude is quite a bit lower. But still good.    Does this mean you've never been lubricating your watches when assembling? If not, you should really focus on practicing that. Correct oils/grease, oiling points and quantities are a big and fundamental thing to learn. 
    • The dial I bought was this one. It is for the st3620. It seems to fit the movement and the dial feet and seconds subdial seem to be in the right place.    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007923938823.html
    • What diel did you get and is it specifically for the ST36**?
    • Thanks, I'll look into this a bit further.    For now, as I'm still waiting for a new mainspring, I started assembly with the keyless works.    First, I still need to disassemble the canon pinion A scalpel slid between the parts and it came apart easily.  Through the cleaning machine again..  Then 9504 on the shaft and a bit on the base Pushed together on a hard flat surface with hand setting pushers.  The excess 9504, I'm removing with Rodico.    Oiling posts with HP1300 (wider parts, top and bottom).   Canon pinion and minute wheel need to go on at the same time. A bit fiddly. I add a tiny tiny drop of HP1300 on the elevated ring below the minute wheel (red arrow).    More posts, HP1300.  Note that the elevated ring on the plate has no purpose. The wheel goes on with the bigger side up.  Remember that the rounded side goes downwards.    Post for the rocking bar, HP1300, small amount, careful spread around the post.  Oiling the riveted wheel on the rocking bar is a bit tricky. There's not enough space for even my smallest oiler to really get in-between... so I use a scalpel. A bit messy. Rodico for some cleaning.  The three positions of the rocking bar. 1. Time setting, 2. Winding, 3. Setting the hour on the second time zone.  Cover plate on.    On now moving to the train side of the keyless works (interesting and unusual design).  9504 greasing of sliding/winding pinion and stem Positioning is straight forward  9504 also here. Distributing it by turning the stem.    Lubricating edges of rocking bar and setting lever spring with 9504. Honestly, positioning the setting lever was very fiddly. I tried various positions of the rocking bar and I'm not sure which one finally worked....   Securing setting lever with screw and then the stop operating lever. Greasing (9504) the touching points with the hacking lever, then removing excess with fresh Rodico.    Placing seat for yoke. Note that there's a top/bottom side. If it doesn't place easily, don't force it, just turn around.  Carefully spreading 9504 around the hole of the yoke (since this doesn't turn 360°, I make the effort to spread it out).  After positioning and securing the yoke, I also observe and grease the touching point between yoke and hacking lever.    That concludes the keyless works. 
×
×
  • Create New...