Jump to content

Which ETA 7750 clone to practice


Giuseppe

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I'm pretty sure this topic has not been debated here, but in case it has been please forgive me.

 In order to learn how to strip down a ETA 7750 movemenet, would it be advisable to work on a clone movement such as the  SHANGHAI 3LZF2 ?

Are there any alternative options?

 

TIA

Giuseppe

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you worked on a non-chronograph movement before? What about modest complications like calendar and automatic?

A chronograph has many more parts and fine adjustments, is considered an advanced task in learning watchmaking. Are you sure you are up to that level already?

Edited by jdm
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

No definetely I've NEVER worked on anything , I've just enrolled on Mark's course..
The point is I really like to plan what to do and my goal is to be able to service a 7750 before the end of 2018.

As Mark bases his course on a simple and big movement (he suggests using a clone of the UNITAS 6497) I thought it might be advisable, after learning the basic with that movement, to step further and use a clone of the 7750 before testing my fresh learnt skills on a real and more costly original ETA...

Am I wrong?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, Giuseppe said:

No definetely I've NEVER worked on anything , I've just enrolled on Mark's course..
The point is I really like to plan what to do and my goal is to be able to service a 7750 before the end of 2018.

As Mark bases his course on a simple and big movement (he suggests using a clone of the UNITAS 6497) I thought it might be advisable, after learning the basic with that movement, to step further and use a clone of the 7750 before testing my fresh learnt skills on a real and more costly original ETA...

Am I wrong?

Actually after the large Unitas you should move practicing on a standard 10 1/2 automatic mov.t with calendar. And  do a variety of other activities before getting to a chronograph. So you have a lot of time before worrying on what to buy, actually you have to buy quite few tools and materials first. Don't step ahead of yourself, appreciate the learning tasks that you have at hand presently. 

Edited by jdm
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀       
    • Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
    • I did not. I thought about it, but I had cleaned it in my ultrasonic, and the tech sheet shows lubricating it in place already assembled, so I figured discretion was the better part of valor. Although since I have to depth the jewels anyway, maybe I pull the pinion off to rule it out 100% as part of the problem. Do you know if there's a safe way to do it? I don't want to use a puller because it would push down on the plane of the wheel, and that seems like a Bad Idea. I thought about using a roller table remover, but I don't think I have a hole stake pointy enough to push it down.
    • Before putting it back in the case I would fit the hands and use a pin vice on the stem to make sure the hands were in line. 
×
×
  • Create New...