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    • By lordpagano
      Hi everyone! I bought an Aeromatic 1912 A1308 watch (have not received it yet) and I was wondering what caliber does it use. By chance I found the attached pictures, I believe it's the same caliber but I found no information on it, only that it may be a Seagull. Can somebody help?
      Thank you!!

    • By Mark
      Join me as I strip down, service and review this Chinese ETA 2892-A2 clone. Seagull ST1812 watch movement. There was a couple of issues to deal with but altogether a fairly impressive movement for the price.
    • By dferrier
      Here is how one guy did it:
       

    • By haratua
      I just got a new Chinese movement (TY2867), and when I push the winder in, the movement won't start. I've manually wind it a few times, pull the winder out and push it back in.
      What could be the issue? Thanks
    • By haratua
      I am struggling to find a way to remove the movement on this large Ingersoll watch from its case. Cannot seem to find any screws that pin the movement to the case. 
       
      Tried to remove the steel spacer, it is un-movable even with pliers.
      Does it mean that that I have to come from the glass? If through the glass, do I pry on the small opening on the bezel (see the second picture attached)?
       
      Appreciate any helps. Thanks.
         
       
       


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    • I'm looking for tips on how to get a really sharp point on pegwood etc. I've tried a pencil sharpener, which just puts a long, thin tip on the wood, without bringing it to a point. I've also tried a scalpel, but I don't like the facets and edges leading up to the point. I want it nice and round if possible. I know it's possible. I even saw a perfect example in a post I read recently (poss. from Nickelsilver). So what do others do? Use a file, or abrasive paper? I tried this too, but I still never got a point sharp enough to clean jewel holes for example.
    • That's good shout. I suspect they may have had multiple sources for the balance, and thus the shim was fitted in some cases, to allow them to compensate for the 0.1mm or so difference between shaft lengths. The shim can be source of problems though as it can act as a pivot point if it is not fitted in entirely the right spot, and this could introduce errors in the balance alignment, and it does introduce the possibility of either forgetting to re-fit it, and screwing the balance down hard on to the jewels, thus damaging the pivot(s) and/or the jewel(s), or fitting it when not needed if a different "compatible" replacement balance is fitted which has a shorter shaft, and then getting in to head scratching mode when the thing rattles around like a pea in a biscuit barrel.
    • Thanks for the answers. A more detailed description first: I reassembled, oiled the pallets with 941 and let the watch run for 48 hours dial up.  Then I did the poising and after a full wind the first measurement on the timegrapher with result +2/0/+2. Then I wore the watch (normal day in the company) for 24 h. Then after a full wind second measurement with result +9/+7/+9.   So maybe the mistake was to let the watch run static in dial up position instead of "shaking" it while wearing? Or the period of 48 hours was too short? Right now the watch is on my wrist and I am observing the "real" gain compared to the atomic clock. 
    • Or is it simply they use the balance cock on more than one caliber and the shim lets them do this?
    • Clockboy furnished  the link to a HS producer in England. 
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