Jump to content
  • ×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

      Only 75 emoji are allowed.

    ×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

    ×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

    ×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

    • By lordpagano
      Hi everyone! I bought an Aeromatic 1912 A1308 watch (have not received it yet) and I was wondering what caliber does it use. By chance I found the attached pictures, I believe it's the same caliber but I found no information on it, only that it may be a Seagull. Can somebody help?
      Thank you!!

    • By Mark
      Join me as I strip down, service and review this Chinese ETA 2892-A2 clone. Seagull ST1812 watch movement. There was a couple of issues to deal with but altogether a fairly impressive movement for the price.
    • By dferrier
      Here is how one guy did it:
       

    • By haratua
      I just got a new Chinese movement (TY2867), and when I push the winder in, the movement won't start. I've manually wind it a few times, pull the winder out and push it back in.
      What could be the issue? Thanks
    • By haratua
      I am struggling to find a way to remove the movement on this large Ingersoll watch from its case. Cannot seem to find any screws that pin the movement to the case. 
       
      Tried to remove the steel spacer, it is un-movable even with pliers.
      Does it mean that that I have to come from the glass? If through the glass, do I pry on the small opening on the bezel (see the second picture attached)?
       
      Appreciate any helps. Thanks.
         
       
       


  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi William, Welcome to the forum. Have been to Elvis and Dolly parton show at Grand ole opry.  Carried out research work in the Atomic City.    Glad to have you here with us. Best wishes. Joe
    • To find out if the slot is in the right place, get a piece of wood wide enough to take the movement, use a 3/8th inch bolt and cut a slot in the end to take the suspention spring, drill a hole near the top of the wood and attach the bolt with a nut. hook the pendulum onto the suspention spring, attach the movement to the board where the crutch is at about the middle of the slot on the pendulum, if the movement is working? the clock should work, attach the hands and see if it is keeping time, which I doubt as I think the slot is way to low, anyway now you have this set up you can just move the movement UP or down till you find the right place for the slot. You do not need to cut the slot while trying to find the right place,  just drill a hole a 1/16th of an inch wider than the crutch, you may end up with a few holes however when about in the right place then cut the slot an 1/2 inch above and below the hole, you can fill to holes or just buy a new pendulum stick.
    • I have the Hormec hollow grind sharpener, and a roller sharpener for wedge shape, and a large diamond file. I hate the Hormec and hollow ground blades (like them for clocks and other stuff though, PB Swiss make my old Snap-On stuff look like toys). I sharpen regularly with the diamond file. Wedge shape, not too shallow. I recall Hamilton recommending 15 degrees, I do a little more. Been meaning to sell the Hormec but after loaning it out try-before-buy to several folks they lose interest after actually trying hollow ground. I know one watchmaker who uses mostly hollow ground, but has 3 or 4 sets and is always messing with them. It doesn't really matter as long as the screws (and nearby parts) survive unscathed. When doing final assembly of a new watch with flat polished screws, where each screw gets hand polished on tin, I use a nickel (german silver) blade, which needs dressing every 3 or 4 screws.
    • Generally #5 or #4. They are darn near the same.
×
×
  • Create New...