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    • By lordpagano
      Hi everyone! I bought an Aeromatic 1912 A1308 watch (have not received it yet) and I was wondering what caliber does it use. By chance I found the attached pictures, I believe it's the same caliber but I found no information on it, only that it may be a Seagull. Can somebody help?
      Thank you!!

    • By Mark
      Join me as I strip down, service and review this Chinese ETA 2892-A2 clone. Seagull ST1812 watch movement. There was a couple of issues to deal with but altogether a fairly impressive movement for the price.
    • By dferrier
      Here is how one guy did it:
       

    • By haratua
      I just got a new Chinese movement (TY2867), and when I push the winder in, the movement won't start. I've manually wind it a few times, pull the winder out and push it back in.
      What could be the issue? Thanks
    • By haratua
      I am struggling to find a way to remove the movement on this large Ingersoll watch from its case. Cannot seem to find any screws that pin the movement to the case. 
       
      Tried to remove the steel spacer, it is un-movable even with pliers.
      Does it mean that that I have to come from the glass? If through the glass, do I pry on the small opening on the bezel (see the second picture attached)?
       
      Appreciate any helps. Thanks.
         
       
       


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    • So, I'm gonna try and post a couple of photos shortly, both Seiko of course for reasons stated earlier.   The blue one is apparently called the "ashtray" bezel. It winds, works, keeps good time, over the last 8 hours anyway, the only snag being the day pusher function does not operate every time.  The silver one is a Seiko deluxe which does not wind or work, in fact it makes a disheartening rattly noise when shaken, like something has come adrift inside.  They were purchased as items for me to take apart and study, then hopefully reassemble, having cleaned and lubed.  The ashtray arrived from India today, the deluxe arrived from Japan today, both were ordered last midweek. How easy these days to begin a new hobby, what with international freight, the Internet, and training vids on you tube. I may not even renew my porn subscription, this hobby could save me money!!!   Next purchase will be a set of intro level tools, then to business. 
    • One option for white is to use a toner reactive foil. This is what I used with success: https://www.circuitspecialists.com/pcb-trf-white.html I didn't use decal paper for printing but used toner transfer paper. My presumption this would still work with the film-less decal paper. Getting the toner reactive foil to work is tricky though. It requires both heat and pressure. Too much heat and pressure and entire dial turns white. Too little and it would only partially stick. It also requires some brushing to remove any bits of foil left over. It took a lot of time, practice an patience for it to work for me but it is certainly possible. I wouldn't recommend this on a dial you only have one-shot with, try with a blank you can practice with.
    • Ah yes, a coupla good ideas there!  I'll go find a welder and cadge a rod, that's a cheap option. Thank you fellas. 
    • Thanks, nickelsilver!  You mean, the first hairspring, the one still mounted is beyond repair? I haven’t touched it. If it is what you meant, it’s disappointing.  Thanks for the clarification on the vintage tools!
    • Can we have a look at the back. I'm sure the movement comes out from the back. That is not a waterproof case. 
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