Jump to content

ISO Swiss VS Cousins Watch gaskets


Tmuir

Recommended Posts

I'm looking at buying a box of flat rubber watch gaskets and looking at Cousins they have their own brand and ISO Swiss gaskets.

The Swiss gaskets are 8 times more expensive than the Cousins gaskets.

Are they really 8 times better?

Reading between the lines I think the Swiss gaskets are Nitrile rubber, whilst the Cousins ones aren't.

Are the Swiss ones really worth the extra cost? I don't mind paying more if I am getting a better product, but don't want to pay more just for the name 'Swiss' on the box.

I will add hopefully next year I will be starting to service other peoples watches, so will be using the gaskets for not just my watches buy for paying customers too, so don't want to save myself a few dollars now that could come back and bite me if the cheap gaskets fail in customers watches.

Edited by Tmuir
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a tough one, I have every confidence with my battery replacement reseals in cousins gaskets, and the servicing i do on mechanical watches at this stage of my career tends to be on old watches that are splash proof at best anyway, so I don't think about that much.

If you're working on modern expensive modern autos that are 50m and up, and you're promising them resealed then it might just be worth the extra expense, (If its quartz it will need to be resealed with the next battery change in a couple of years anyway, so dont worry) I dont think anything would come back to you in any time frame that you could take responsibility for, but given that some of these watches go a decade without anyone looking at them, the customer might find 8 years after the service they jump into a pool and it floods, now obviously thats not really your fault or responsibility, even if it could have been theoretically prevented with an expensive gasket that would degrade more slowly, you cant promise people that their watch will be waterproof for a decade without maintenance. so it shouldn't cause you any problems, but perhaps more of an ethical consideration for the owners of the watches and what they might face way off down the line and whether that hypothetical situation would cause you to lose any sleep. 

To answer more directly, as chopin says they're a bit better, but not 8 times better. 

Edited by Ishima
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Unfortunately I'm not that lucky. I started on the train side and after I noticed the binding I pulled everything out except the driving wheel to rule everything else out. It still binds. I'm going to double check that the pinion is fully seated on the staff first, then if no joy I'll push the bridge jewel up a fraction of a mm. Fingers crossed!
    • Happy to have helped, great way to start the day with a win! 🥳
    • Thank you for the advise!! It worked. The setting screw was a lock/unlock to remove the rotor. 
    • I have that French tech sheet too, it is a little different than the English one (eg, it doesn't have the auto works diagram). BTW, it looks like you are looking up the case number in the 1979 ABC supplement. The 1974 ABC catalog does have the 3093 case. As you determined it takes the 1222-5 crystal.  When I serviced my President 'A' (which also takes that crystal), I was able to fit a 29.8 crystal from my DPA crystal assortment. Those are, in my opinion, a great deal. The assortment comes with 10 sizes each from 27.8mm to 32.4mm in 0.2 increments. I pretty much use them for any non-armored crystal that takes a high dome crystal. I think they no longer make them but Cousins has still has some in stock but when I bought them they were around $40 for the set and now they are around $100. Still, at 40 cents a crystal it's still a good deal. For the large driving wheel, I remember I once assembled the keyless/motion works first and when I placed the large driving wheel it was interfering with the setting wheel on the dial side as the teeth were not fully meshing and it wouldn't fully seat. If that isn't the issue I got nothing and am looking forward to see how you solve it 🙂
    • Not sure, but just looking at it, it seems like the screw on the right may be a fake? The one on the left may not be a screw in the regular sense at all, rather a 2 position device, I think you need to point the slot towards either of the 2 dots and one will secure and one will open. Like I said this is just my best guess looking at the pictures.
×
×
  • Create New...