how to remover the rotor on an ETA 2452

[measuretwice]

Others I've seen have a screw in the centre of the rotor....this one, I'm sure how to remove the rotor.  It looks like this.  Thanks!

 

 

EDIT.....ok figured it out, 2 screws and the whole automatic winder comes out, rotor is screwed on from the bottom.....should have scratch head before asking

 

 

Edited November 12, 2017 by measuretwice

[anilv]

Glad you found it out!

On these watches, the rotor runs bare between the bearing surfaces formed by the rotor and the slotted retaining screw. If you have one which has too much end shake you can remove a bit of the raised portion on the inner side of the rotor, this effectively closes the bearing up. Do it a bit at a time so you don't remove too much metal. You should not have problem with the rotor hitting the mainplates as the amount removed is very little but check it anyway. In the event it does hit the movement plates then you need to grind off a bit from the edges as well.

Anilv

 

[measuretwice]

thanks....can you comment on judging when the amount of end shake becomes a problem ?   The rotor doesn't seem to interfere with anything.

[measuretwice]

The watch is mostly disassembled.  I didn't find any major issues so am hoping this one is a win (one of a pile of unknowns from a retired watchmaker)

I have few more questions if I could ask for help on....

The cannon pinion friction fit is I assume between the copper coloured piece and shaft?  Unlike others that are a tube pressed onto a tube, this looks like it has three sprung legs.  How to remove?  Gently press out with a staking tool?

 

This assembly looks riveted together, is it supposed to come apart or run through the cleaner as is?

 

These wheels are from the automatic winder.  the square piece looks like it might be a nut?  Not sure how they come apart, or even they do.  Any ideas how to disassemble or run them through the cleaner as is?

 

 

Lastly, the barrel and lid has some light scoring from the spring.  Is this normal, should clean it up or just leave it?

 

Thanks for any and all help

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Marc]

Pics 1 & 2 - canon pinion. This can be dismantled if needs be but there is a risk altering the tension at the friction coupling or distorting the sprung arms so I don't bother. Just run it through the cleaner as is and lubricate the friction coupling on reinstallation.

Pics 3 & 4 - The date driving wheel doesn't come apart. Just through the cleaner as it is.

Pic 5 - Auto winding reverser wheels. These don't come apart either. The official ETA guidance is that they shouldn't even be cleaned, just replaced. However that's is rarely required. Run them through the cleaner as they are. Lubricating these is a contentious subject. I have a 1 part 9010 to 30 parts naphtha solution that I dunk them in and then leave them to allow the naphtha to evaporate. This leaves them coated with the thinnest film of 9010, and I have never had any issues with them sticking. There is also a product called Lubeta which is specifically for lubricating reversers which is used in a similar way. Do a forum search or Google "lubricating reverser wheels" and you will find various solutions and much disagreement as to what should and shouldn't be considered. Find what works for you and ignore the critics

Pic 6 - The main spring barrel. The damage doesn't look too bad but if it were mine I would use it as it is and see how the watch performed, but I would also look out for a replacement. You could try polishing out the damage but it's fiddly unless you have a lathe, in which case mount it up in a step collet and see if you can clean it up without either weakening the parts or making too much room inside the barrel. Easiest though is to replace. When you have the problem sorted check the main spring for flatness and if it is out replace it. The problem is most likely caused by a distorted M/S and highlights what can happen when a spring is inexpertly hand wound into the barrel. You should always use a M/S winder where possible, and perfect the art of hand winding for when a winder isn't an option.

Edited November 15, 2017 by Marc
spelling correction

[measuretwice]

thanks for the comprehensive answer!  Its really great getting help like this as no matter how many books and videos one takes in, its hard to find answers to such movement specific things.  I do have a lathe but probably won't worry about this time as you're saying its not too bad.  Also I have mainspring winders so am careful there.

I like that at all the answers were clean as is - makes life easy

Off to load the cleaner

Edited November 15, 2017 by measuretwice

[anilv]

9 hours ago, measuretwice said:

thanks....can you comment on judging when the amount of end shake becomes a problem ?   The rotor doesn't seem to interfere with anything.

Hi,

My usual method is pressing on the rotor on the edge away from the weight. If the rotor weight has noticeable movement I would consider tightening up the bearings. Problem with any bearings which are not fully to spec is that the more freeplay the faster it degrades. On my own watches I may not do so if I know that the watch will see limited use.

A NOS rotor does turn up from time to time but this is only half the solution as it does not address wear on the other components. Previously you could 'harvest' the parts from other watches obtained cheaply but even these are thin on the ground.

On these watches if you are using them regularly  I would suggest an annual clean and oil of the automatic reversers and rotor bearings at least. When these are neglected, debris will be the result and this affects the running of the watch.

Anil