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Cleaning Lathe using Lighter Fluid


jdrichard

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I recently purchased a Boley Leinen Reform Lathe and in my research I discovered that there recommendation for freeing up the spindle is to add benzene or fuel to the oil wells on the top. Is this OK and what would the process be? Hear is the Lathe and Vintage instructions.28588a150c34ab60ed5942e8838a76ea.jpg48bba59e6932b6e3ff4fcd697a6dfc70.jpeg6798515b493f999d6646630b4b97dc3f.jpeg

 

 

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I have that lathe too. Whilst you could follow their guide, it rather depends on why it needs freeing up and how bad it is.

If you don’t know the history, then my advice would be to do what I did with mine when I got it and remove the spindle so you can clean out any debis and polish off any light corrosion etc. At the same time you can thoroughly wash out the oil feeds.

To remove the spindle you will need to remove the dustcovers, loosen the pulley set screw and remove the split nut from the spindle then most likely tap it with a mallet.

There’s lots on the web about the adjustment process, e.g. https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/horologist/adjusting-bearings-on-a-watchmakers-lathe-t899.html, and a thread elsewhere on this forum.

I bought mobile velocite #6 repackaged into a small bottle from eBay as the spindle oil, and a small syringe to get it into the oil cups.

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I have that lathe too. Whilst you could follow their guide, it rather depends on why it needs freeing up and how bad it is.
If you don’t know the history, then my advice would be to do what I did with mine when I got it and remove the spindle so you can clean out any debis and polish off any light corrosion etc. At the same time you can thoroughly wash out the oil feeds.
To remove the spindle you will need to remove the dustcovers, loosen the pulley set screw and remove the split nut from the spindle then most likely tap it with a mallet.
There’s lots on the web about the adjustment process, e.g. https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/horologist/adjusting-bearings-on-a-watchmakers-lathe-t899.html, and a thread elsewhere on this forum.
I bought mobile velocite #6 repackaged into a small bottle from eBay as the spindle oil, and a small syringe to get it into the oil cups.

Are these cone bearings on this Lathe. I did start to remove the spindle but after tapping it with a mallet , the spindle would go no further then the back of the head stock and it was still tight. I did not know how to convince it to go further so i stopped and knocked it back. And tips?


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Here you go.

Start by removing the bearing dust caps - should twist and slide off. Then remove the split nut and loosen the pulley set screw.

Then you can loosely fit the drawbar (no collet) and tap the end of it to loosen the bearing shaft.  You could hit the shaft directly, but this will help protect it.

3399C69C-9EB9-49C8-B685-ED8E9CAAE15D.thumb.jpeg.bda9ea85226d99c362b6f7d1d3b04750.jpeg

Once removed, you will see the outer bearing cone has a pip which located in the slot in the shaft - important point for reassembly.

B7DE2D23-43EB-438B-99B3-322DF347363E.thumb.jpeg.6550bba60d4ef7d9be2337604955182d.jpeg

Here are all the parts when disassembled.

5358C05C-0387-4B01-BF9E-E0C1EEF1DE6D.thumb.jpeg.f59f2898dd525a29278637574abc2c30.jpeg

I remember reading that some lathes have a plain ring nut and a split nut. Mine doesn’t and I don’t think it should, but of course the shaft will only come out if there’s no threaded retainers in the way.

Let me know if you have any other questions... oh, and don’t forget to refit your drive belt when you put it all back together like I just did.

 

Edited by StuartBaker104
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Here you go.
Start by removing the bearing dust caps - should twist and slide off. Then remove the split nut and loosen the pulley set screw.
Then you can loosely fit the drawbar (no collet) and tap the end of it to loosen the bearing shaft.  You could hit the shaft directly, but this will help protect it.
3399C69C-9EB9-49C8-B685-ED8E9CAAE15D.thumb.jpeg.bda9ea85226d99c362b6f7d1d3b04750.jpeg
Once removed, you will see the outer bearing cone has a pip which located in the slot in the shaft - important point for reassembly.
B7DE2D23-43EB-438B-99B3-322DF347363E.thumb.jpeg.6550bba60d4ef7d9be2337604955182d.jpeg
Here are all the parts when disassembled.
5358C05C-0387-4B01-BF9E-E0C1EEF1DE6D.thumb.jpeg.f59f2898dd525a29278637574abc2c30.jpeg
I remember reading that some lathes have a plain ring nut and a split nut. Mine doesn’t and I don’t think it should, but of course the shaft will only come out if there’s no threaded retainers in the way.
Let me know if you have any other questions... oh, and don’t forget to refit your drive belt when you put it all back together like I just did.
 

Thank you for all the trouble in explaining this process. My lathe has a nut on the back that has two strange holes. The nut does not stay tight when the lathe is running as there is really no way of locking it.
9c5e2c6dd4a037f4213aec1ee0bc03f6.jpgb3476a0faf75cb6fb6daac8ac5af33fa.jpgcb4b76be0a78d6722f89a30fb31ab5a9.jpg1036ea1b155fec5bd13542bdb75fe582.jpg84803e6aad0887e96cf27470c21655e8.jpg4264e67b87daad1337a535e0193d0066.jpg


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So that last picture shows the join between the bearing and the shaft, which should both rotate together in the headstock. They should seperate where I have marked below. It may help to apply some penetrating oil here if it still won’t move.

This may be a long shot, but if this fails, you could try heating the whole assembly to say 100C in an oven and then using a freeze spray or pouring cold water down the inside of the shaft. There won’t be enough of a thermal shock to damage anything, but might be just enough to help free it up. Remember to dry thoroughly then oil afterwards.

3E326005-3642-48B2-B4C7-00EF94FDBBC6.thumb.jpeg.0af33987eb4c092b74dcab45948293f3.jpeg

Note that where you have Allen key screws, you should have oil cups which provide a gradual feed of oil to the bearings. You may be able to buy a set of these from eBay or a tool supplier.

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So that last picture shows the join between the bearing and the shaft, which should both rotate together in the headstock. They should seperate where I have marked below. It may help to apply some penetrating oil here if it still won’t move.
This may be a long shot, but if this fails, you could try heating the whole assembly to say 100C in an oven and then using a freeze spray or pouring cold water down the inside of the shaft. There won’t be enough of a thermal shock to damage anything, but might be just enough to help free it up. Remember to dry thoroughly then oil afterwards.
3E326005-3642-48B2-B4C7-00EF94FDBBC6.thumb.jpeg.0af33987eb4c092b74dcab45948293f3.jpeg
Note that where you have Allen key screws, you should have oil cups which provide a gradual feed of oil to the bearings. You may be able to buy a set of these from eBay or a tool supplier.

I thought so. Thanks and talk soon, off to Lima


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