Jump to content

Bone pile 1968 Timex Marlin Restore

JerseyMo

By JerseyMo
in Your Watch Collection

 Share

Recommended Posts

JerseyMo Distinguished Member

JerseyMo

Posted
Posted

One of the great things about collecting and repairing is that feeling of taking a bunch of parts and making a working watch again.

This restore begins with a scrap pile of cases from a former Timex repair center.  I chose a late 1960's Marlin case that is missing the stem tube.

So to the parts stash and one issue resolved.  Off it than goes to get a bath in cleaning solution , polished, new crystal added along with correct case back.

Next I service a used #24 movement also from the same lot the cases came with and the assembly begins.

Since the hands are chromed, I just use an old eraser pencil to bring back their shine.  The sweep comes from NOS stock.

Grease the stem tube, set lever, insert a NOS stem\crown, snap on the case back and there ya go.

Will give this one a wear to test its time keeping.

DSC06551.JPG

DSC06552.JPG

DSC06557.JPG

DSC06558.JPG

DSC06564.JPG

DSC06562.JPG

DSC06563.JPG

DSC06565.JPG

DSC06566.JPG

DSC06567.JPG

DSC06568.JPG

DSC06569.JPG

DSC06570.JPG

DSC06571.JPG

  • Like 13
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 months later...
JerseyMo Distinguished Member

JerseyMo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, azkid said:

Nicely done! Is it me or does the plating hold up better on that era/model versus many others? Maybe I have gotten lucky I don't know. :)

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

I wold agree that the plating done in the 50's and 60's held up better than that done in the 70's.  Of course it all depends on who wore the watch and what type of day to day elements they were exposed to.  Mostly the contact of the skin to the metal.  Some of them really make you think OMG....did they dipped in acid?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
azkid Watch Enthusiast

azkid

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, JerseyMo said:

I wold agree that the plating done in the 50's and 60's held up better than that done in the 70's.  Of course it all depends on who wore the watch and what type of day to day elements they were exposed to.  Mostly the contact of the skin to the metal.  Some of them really make you think OMG....did they dipped in acid?

I know, right? I suppose sweat is acidic. But some of these are like an Alien bled on 'em.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 years later...
  • 5 months later...
CJ5 New Member

CJ5

Posted
Posted

I just bought a 1976 Timex Marlin from Ebay, and when I wound it up, it ran smoothly for a couple of minutes but then stopped moving altogether. If I tap on it gently it might run for a few seconds and then stop. It'll also run for a couple of seconds if I adjust the hour and minute hand, but then stop when I stop adjusting the hands. I want to stress that I am completely new to the game of watches and servicing, so I was wondering if either anybody knows what the problem is and or is there somebody that could service it, or should I just try and attempt to service it myself. Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • oldhippy
      Is this a 'hack' ?

      By oldhippy · Posted

      I need to see photos of the whole movement before I comment. 
    • swiss2k
      Omega cal. 565 - low amplitude

      By swiss2k · Posted

      Hi @Jon, so, from one extreme to another the beat error is 0.1(min.pos) to 0.2(msx.pos), and as you mentioned the rate does up and down dramatically. Also checked the position of the collet, and the collet is not central to the jewel on the balance cock. Balance moves freely, per my understanding.   So, after 24h the ampl. fell down by approx 20 deg, which I would assume is expected. After adjusting the endshake I believe I gained around +10 deg. of balance movement. Which is great, and overall the balance is not at 220'ish deg.   What I did next, some might think is non-orthodox, but was wort a try. I too the mainspring out, checked again for endshake and if the pin moves freely, and cleaned everything. Usually when installing the mainspring I would use some barrel grease on the barrel walls, install the spring and put a 2-3 drops of D-5 oil on top of the wounded spring and in the places where the arbor sits. This time I took the spring and applied a ultra this coat of Molykote Dx paste on the whole spring, before installing it in to the barrel, and added some oil to the arbor as usual.  The result improved, at a full wound the balance produces about 230-237 deg. @JohnR725 I'm getting closer to 300 😃   What I am noticing, there is a fluctuation in amplitude. With time it would rise and drop about total 8-10 deg in an interval about 2 minutes. I assumed this ruled out the power transfer from the barrel itself. So I took the gear train out, cleaned and lubed. 
    • Hawaiikook808
      Balance spring fell out of regulator pin.

      By Hawaiikook808 · Posted

      Thank you so much, Hector and CJ. I appreciate the tech sheet and the video. Gasp, I think I will make the attempt. What's the worst that can happen? I think there may be a new balance complete in my future, though.  I'll update the post and let you know the result. R, Frank  
    • Waggy
      Movement holder made with 3D printer

      By Waggy · Posted

      So here is the new base (v 2.1), I made it so that the base will fit over and swallow the stump of the hand pusher tool (or at least my clone of the tool), I also reduced the OD of the bottom skirt a little as it looked/felt a little large, here are a few pictures and the fake .pdf file which you need to convert to .zip once downloaded.   The cut-out seen on the below image on the bottom of the base should swallow the OD (40 mm, +0.1 mm tolerance) of the stump and the height of the stump 9.5mm (measured to 9.1mm, but rounded to 9.5mm) - let me know if this works for your tool.   Note, I think you may need to print supports for the new internal shelf created? Here is the fake .pdf for just the FreeCAD base file and 3mf files Modular Movement Holder.pdf Here is the fake pdf for complete set of the new base and ring FreeCAD/3mf files: Modular Movement Holder base and ring v 2.1.pdf However, I'm wondering how often you could use this feature, adding the dial usually increases the OD of the movement, so you would need a new (larger) adapter ring tuned to the OD of the dial and I wouldn't like to grip the dial in any kind of movement holder if It could be avoided for fear of damaging it. Maybe I'm misunderstanding you?
    • HectorLooi
      Balance spring fell out of regulator pin.

      By HectorLooi · Posted

      Hi Frank, you have dived headlong into the deep end. Hairspring work has to be the scariest thing a newbie has to tackle. Your hairspring appears to be bent and just putting it back into the regulator would not allow the balance to work properly. It might start oscillating but the performance would not be good. The proper thing to do is to unstud the hairspring, remove the hairspring from the balance, reinstall the hairspring on the stud carrier, reshape the endcurve and centre the collet to the balance jewel hole. This challenge would either make you or break you. Hope that you will be able to fix your watch. Welcome to the world of watchmaking.  Watch this video. It think it'll give you an idea of the task ahead. From your 1st photo, I think you have a etachron type stud. Let me see if I can find a video on how to remove it from the arm.
×
×
  • Create New...