Jump to content

Recommended Posts

hi.does anybody know how to remove the movement from a HMT Sona watch.i lifted the case and removed various screws but it just rotates. there seems to be a ring that is keeping it in place.(see photo) would appreciate any help.the bolt.

2017-11-09 14.15.53_LI.jpg

Edited by berniethebolt
spelt wrong.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looked it up on Google--Reminds me of Girard Perregaux and definitely looks like a front-loader. Remove the bezel by placing a very thin blade or similar ( I use a scalpel, but not everyone might have that) pop off bezel. You don't need to remove the crystal. The watch should then come out when you turn it over.

 

J

Link to comment
Share on other sites

25 minutes ago, berniethebolt said:

forgive my ignorance ,but what bezel?

The bezel is the metal ring that sits on top of the watchcase and holds the crystal. In your picture it is the portion outlined in yellow. The red line is where you should fit a razor or some suitably thin and sturdy object to pry the bezel/crystal away from the case. It should lift fairly easily, and it will be a quick matter to get it off once it does.

Slide1.jpg.ab4157ebea1c232564885ae3c7f91e94.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, noirrac1j said:

The bezel is the metal ring that sits on top of the watchcase and holds the crystal. In your picture it is the portion outlined in yellow. The red line is where you should fit a razor or some suitably thin and sturdy object to pry the bezel/crystal away from the case. It should lift fairly easily, and it will be a quick matter to get it off once it does.

Slide1.jpg.ab4157ebea1c232564885ae3c7f91e94.jpg

sorted it.found a little recess and out it popped! have stripped it down,now for a clean and lube.thanks again guys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

further to this item i read that the sona or all hmt watches were based on citizen.if so what models.i could do with a part for my sona.i could buy another sona for a tenner and swap the part but what is the point of that when i would be back to square one! with so many older hmt watches about you would think it would be easy enough to source parts?would appreciate any suggestions.(within reason!).thanks B.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I think if you want to play Billy big b.ollocks then you have to have something up your sleeve, anyone that knows how to fight, plays dirty. Lets face it a lot of folk that voted for Brexit just rolled uk their sleeves to say up yours EU hoping for good changes. We have idiots for leaders and probably none of them clever enough to clean the shitty stick they were given. I didnt vote, what will be will be.
    • I voted leave too, my reasoning was the the EU is undemocratic, no elected officials. I don't regret it but I  am sad that both sides acted like petulant toddlers.  Shameful.  I'm not on other forums but if I was and left this site, would you shun me? Of course not, we aren't petulant toddlers.  
    • This is a type of tool that may be suitable to remove the bezel - though note that I'm pretty sure the watch should be face down - not face up, as in some of the photos of these tools on amazon & ebay! If you try one one of those, put the movement screws back in first to avoid accidents. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Removal-Professional-Remover-Watchmaker-Diameter/dp/B09XCH4QVN?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A296NCMMFVXSDN&th=1  
    • Hi, I’m constantly asking my wife to help me with removing the stem in order to complete casing. To expand, this is not a challenge for me when the setting lever is secured by a screw (older calibers). However when the setting lever is attached to a spring loaded setting lever axel, like on more modern calibers, I simply don’t see how to apply enough pressure on the button to get the stem out short of putting the movement face down with the dial and hands attached, which I’m loath to do in order to avoid damaging the dial/hands? what technique should I be using? thanks  
    • Many thanks for your advice (being borne in mind at present) & offer Dell. When I was given the clock the plastic anchor was loose on the arbour (it had split at the 'hole') &, after repairing this, I have been trying to determine whether the spindle (pin) should be perpendicular when the pallet is sitting on a flat surface; or whether, when installed, its L-R extremes (or alternatively its tick & tock points) should lie at equal angles from the vertical when moved with spring absent. I can get the clock to run but in every such configuration the top block has to be turned anti-clockwise (from above) by quite a bit in order to be 'in beat' & it always runs fast (despite the pendulum being set to as slow as possible). This makes me wonder if there is any particular feature of/fault in a torsion spring clock which determines which turn direction (if any) is necessary to get it 'in beat'; & whether there would be a different set of settings that would get it running nearer to time at somewhere around the mid timing/inertia position which would then allow tweaking of the fast/slow setting.
×
×
  • Create New...