Jump to content

Seiko H127A-5000 ana-digi restoration


Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone,
Recently I have become obsessed with ana digi watches from the 1980's! I really dig the style for some reason.

I was looking on ebay in the low price ranges and I found this little nugget for the princely sum of $5.70 - the shipping from Peru was an inflated $20 AUD - so I got away with it for under $30.

It came well packed in a little padded envelope. It was missing the back, had severe damage, but I didn't see any rust stains on the back.

EJ3StcW.jpg

A view from the side
uVxnNus.jpg

It is a Seiko H127A-5000 - the year could be between 1979 and 1980 - there is a little bit of info around the internet.

YEnlLqn.jpg

The case back will be an insanely rare part to find so I may have to CNC mill something or potentially 3d print a plastic back.
That is if I can get it working.

The Crystal is trash. I've tried sanding it, will wait till I have some crystal polish - I haven't had much luck polishing mineral crystals.
A new crystal is around $35 - with OEM Seiko writing.

I removed the movement and soaked it in WD40 to loosen all the bolts. It was too seized to attempt opening.
The LCD panel/dial has a crack in it. The sub assembly appears clean, the zebra strips on the LCD were a bit gummed up but cleaned up.

Happily the analogue movement was turning over freely, it wasn't ticking - but likely due to so much grit and much on the contacts.

The only corrosion was on the rotor, and some of the non important chrome plated parts.
I've soaked them in shellite. Cleaned with blutac and then inspected under microscope.
Everything appears fine.

It is a very high end movement with 8 jewels and all metal parts - it would have been top of the line back in the day. Very tiny parts.

hocsQBR.jpg

The main circuit board is out - my it looks complicated.

9M8yESE.jpg

Simple plain jane movement - nothing fancy: It's all inside:
xDz7v8Z.jpg

The bridge is off and the rotor is next to the movement:
UN9x5yp.jpg

 

Cleaning the case:

vih6QtM.jpg

Tonight I have finished cleaning everything - I have put it into my movement parts tray - awaiting some time after work tommorow.

If anyone knows how the LCD works please let me know - is the display in the top dial section? Or the next layer down? There is a white mirror presumably to reflect the light off the screen as this is the black model version (there were two models).


Parts look pricey and rare - I've found a dial panel NOS - also crystals online. May have to look for circuit board if its fried -

 

Can't find any bracelets - may have to go non OEM generic  steel band.

 

Goal is to get it running - if its not running - atleast to be a show piece in my cabinet.

More soon :)

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great start!. I haven't had any success with these Ana-digi watches.. Seiko, Citizen.. you name it.. all my attempts failed..

Wish you all the best!

Anilv

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good luck! I have a number of fried ani-digi Seiko watches, mainly H608 from memory? No luck in getting any of them running yet so I’ll be following your progress with interest.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

The progress update is coming. I'm just waiting on some time to reassemble the bridge and main gears. The old photocopied charts are shite and you can barely see it.
Due to the rust I didnt photograph the original.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

What's up WRT peeps!
I finally have some updaaaaaaaaaaatees :)

The story with the watch above was that it needed a case back and a replacement LCD panel.

I have been watching eBay for a while, there have been 3 watches sold since: $850, $450, $280 for working examples. The former of which was a mint example.

The prices have doubled from 3 years ago, where a mint NOS example cost $300-400.

Anyway - I bought a nice B grade donor watch which was 100% complete, however it had a cracked/bleeding LCD panel.
It only cost me $25 from germany (eBay) which is surprising because nobody else bid on it.
Luckily I knew that Northern Watch Clock Co had a 4510-841 replacement LCD panel for sale for 15 gbp.
It was the correct panel for the donor watch as the original had the dark dial which was possible rarer?


I ordered the part, after paying an absolutely eye watering 25GBP for postage, (it arrived with an 8gbp postage stamp - 14 days after ordering.waaat...). It wasn't packed that well considering how incredibly rare this part is. Cousins as an example posted me a 30x30x30cm carboard box just for a mainspring - atleast it was protected haha!!!

gH6UXZq.jpg

xAKdpiP.jpg

cGsDb9S.jpg

EfW6ahu.jpg

Ltyjfvk.jpg

rXu1r4N.jpg

q0tMuNz.jpg

dLPOKMg.jpg

tAdnPso.jpg

DzfHQb8.jpg

X7S1rXR.jpg

scrlHZu.jpg

QdlaAON.jpg

rtUJFCg.jpg

https://imgur.com/uOMXVxu.jpg[/img]

Edited by AlexeiJ1
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

All up it owes me around $110 + $50 for the crystal.
Not bad considering I know its an honest watch with several parts replaced (LCD + Crystal + case back gasket) - rather than buying an unknown watch on ebay for $800 which could have a cracked dial.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Right, my turn then Alexei, you have inspired me! Mine is in remarkably good condition cosmetically, it all looks clean inside too so hopefully it will work. It is the black dial one that you think is more rare? So I just need an LCD panel now. It seems you may have bought the last one available, so the hunt is on. If you found anywhere else that had one I'd be grateful if you could lee me know? I need the dark one which is 4510.840 as opposed to your 4510.841 (I think, anyway, not 100% sure difference between 840 black and 841 white).

40813950601_21ce093782_o_d.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Do you know, I had taken on so many other projects that I had prettty much forgotten about this one. I've had an ebay search for the panel going for months with no joy yet. But I did see a video a few weeks ago where someone basically squeezed out the lcd bleed on an old lcd watch. I don't have much hope that it's going to work on this one but I will give it a go, nothing to lose and all that.

If anyone does come across a 4510840 lcd panel though, well you know who to tell...!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Was a Educatron . Five star movement from Hong Kong. So not the same. 

Thanks for checking Roger!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/2/2018 at 6:23 PM, Pip said:

Do you know, I had taken on so many other projects that I had prettty much forgotten about this one. I've had an ebay search for the panel going for months with no joy yet. But I did see a video a few weeks ago where someone basically squeezed out the lcd bleed on an old lcd watch. I don't have much hope that it's going to work on this one but I will give it a go, nothing to lose and all that. 

If anyone does come across a 4510840 lcd panel though, well you know who to tell...!

Hiya Pip. I will keep an eye out. I'm looking for another one too as I have 1 more donor one to fix.
Your LCD looks to have a small crack in it.

I am afraid the parts will not come up easily as they are always the first part to crack. I think that people are a bit rough putting the battery in, or there is no shock protection on the case back when it is pressed in, resulting in a crack to the glass.

They are great watches, I've seen a few changes hands recently for only $100.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Share



  • Similar Content

    • By CharDav
      Hi All
      Any ideas how I can improve the look of this calendar ring?
      The staining seems to have got underneath the lacquer.  I've not tried anything yet as I'm a little hesitant at using any liquid on it for fear of damaging the lacquer further.  i'm still learning...
      Many thanks
       

    • By richiesgr
      Hi
      I've tried to service a tiny Seiko 2601 Automatic movement very small for me (18 mm)
      So I finished  yesterday all was ok I've rewinded and I was happy because the balance started I've not checked amplitude or precision (for me just ticking it's already something)
      Today I check and the watch have stopped and do not restart even when I rewind manually. 
      Now when I put the main spring back in the barrel I've broken the end part at the opposite side of the pinion it was like a V because I don't have a main  spring rewinder so I make it manually (Shame on me).
      So I suspect that the main spring is not clamped in the barrel and it's just spinning inside without giving any power to the movement.
      The question is what method can I use to check my assumption. Not forget It's an automatic movement.
      Thanks  
    • By RNS
      Good day all,
      I'm a recent 30 year retiree and elected to start cleaning some of my older watches that ended up in a box wrapped in a towel.  One in particular, a gift from my grandfather, began working with a new battery but the crystal appears foggy.
      I would appreciate specific instructions for removing the stem/ crown and cleaning the crystal from an 1980 Seiko with the 6030A movement.
      Thank you in advance.
      Regards,
      Rick



    • By DanteFalcioni
      I recently purchased what I call a “Franken-watch” Seiko from a seller on eBay from India. As I’m sure many of you know by now there are hundreds of listings (see screenshot below) for cheap Seiko watches with weird dials, most likely repainted. They aren’t fully “fake” as most of them come with genuine Seiko movements. My Retro Watches has a good video where he looks at a watch he bought from a dealer similar to this if you’re curious, see link below.
      https://youtu.be/G_m4b3OBEMI
      Anyways I thought one of these cheap weird watches would be a fun one to play around with as my first project, and I paid $20CAD for mine which I thought to be good especially if the movement inside was genuine Seiko. First problem I noticed was the bracelet (which was cheap and terrible) was held in by shoulder-less spring bars which would be fine if the lugs had holes but they do not so I had to saw the bracelet off so I could put another one on (see wreckage below). There’s more but I won’t bore you too much..
      MY MAIN PROBLEM:
      The watch came with a Seiko 6349A (23J) movement which is a variation of the Seiko 6309 (17J) movement. The movement was held into the case only by the crown (see pictures below) and didn’t have a movement ring. As I understand this is bad because the movement isn’t securely held in the case by anything. I’ve tried to find one on eBay but I’ve had no luck, and I can’t find anywhere that has the ring size so I can’t try and find an aftermarket one. 
       
      Does anyone know where I can get one of these movement holder rings? Is it even possible to get one off of CousinsUK or Esslinger or somewhere? Do any of you have one I could buy? I am very stuck and any help is greatly appreciated!




    • By Rafael
      Hi, 
      Can someone please explain to me how on earth do i unwind this Seiko 5126A movement prior to reassembly? (Picture attached).
      No manual winding as far as I could find and the winding screw on top of the bridge is not counterturning automatically when I push back the click and basically nothing happens. I can unscrew it but this just releases the screw.
      I'll mention that I did experimented with this movement (it's my watch) and first time accidently removed the bridge with power still left. No visible harm was found and after reassembly (hopefully a proper one) everything seemed in order (except for the oiling and cleaning which I haven't yet performed and is due now).
      Thanks!
      Rafael

  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

×
×
  • Create New...