Jump to content

Omega cal 564 quickset problem


Recommended Posts

 
Just cleaned an Omega 564. Tried the quickset feature before replacing the dial but the date ring doesn't move far enough for the jumper to clear the next tooth. The ring looks fine and (unfortunately) this wasn't the initial problem with the watch (Stem fell out).
Guidance? Tips on what common mistakes can be made in this area?
Thanks
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just this minute finished putting together a 613 which has the same mechanism. As usual I took plenty of pics during disassembly - or I might not have spotted that the pin on the correcting yoke (1568) sits in the hole in the Date Corrector (1530)

 

 

 

17107172838577 (2).jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Old Hippy: Ultrasonic cleaning and Omega recommended lubrication.

Vinn3: With "upset crown gear" do you mean when the crown gear is misaligned and you can't get the stem back in? Every part was removed, cleaned and lubricated. The stem works well in all 3 positions.

Noirrac1j: Thanks for the pictures. My date corrector is the stainless steel type that I just found out from an NAWCC member has to be upgraded to your style. I think the problem is with this part. Incidentally. It was engaged properly.

 

Chopin: lubricated as per Omega guidelines. I think the problem is with my old style and probably damaged date corrector.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, mikepilk said:

Just this minute finished putting together a 613 which has the same mechanism. As usual I took plenty of pics during disassembly - or I might not have spotted that the pin on the correcting yoke (1568) sits in the hole in the Date Corrector (1530)

 

 

 

17107172838577 (2).jpg

Thanks for the picture! I had the pin properly connected. Need the updated corrector like yours. Since you have pictures would you do me a favor of a shot with the date guard removed? In some shots my driving wheel looks different and I wonder if that was also updated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is what my driving wheel looks like. Yours is undoubtedly newer. I wonder why this was changed? Incidentally, I didn't drag this watch on fine sand. Those horrific scratches were there already.

_8107757_edited-1.jpg

Edited by deloidtoc
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The serial number dates mine from 1969.  I have the service sheet for my movement (613) and it lists the 'Date Indicator Driving Wheel' as part #1564. 

On Cousin's site it lists the same part number for  both movements # 563 1564 

There's a few available on the bay  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, mikepilk said:

The serial number dates mine from 1969.  I have the service sheet for my movement (613) and it lists the 'Date Indicator Driving Wheel' as part #1564. 

On Cousin's site it lists the same part number for  both movements # 563 1564 

There's a few available on the bay  

Do you know if the newer part#1564 was a mandatory upgrade or just an evolutionary change?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, deloidtoc said:

Do you know if the newer part#1564 was a mandatory upgrade or just an evolutionary change?

Sorry I don't know that. These date driving wheels seem to be a problem part. On a Cal 1012 I had to replace a plastic part with an expensive metal upgrade. Also had problems on Seikos 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I'd be grateful for recommendations of good sources of advice on getting clocks with balance spring - as opposed to pendulum - escapements 'in beat'.....
    • Well I am in a bit of a quandary. I can't find the correct colour for the dial. I even wrote to Hettich a while back hoping they would give me the colour code for the dial. The reply that I received was "We don't make those anymore." I am thinking now to silver the dial and use a water transfer decal to put minute markers and the HETTICH logo (which is the very font that this forum uses) and the Made in Germany down the bottom. Not sure of the success rate of the water transfer method, but I have no other solution for the markers and logo. Handpainting is just not an option. In trying to get the top piece of the clock polished, it has progressively lost its sharp edges. My stupid hamfisted effort. I am thinking of purchasing a replacement piece of brass and drilling new holes in it for the corner posts. Why I attempted to repolish using wet & dry and not simply using a paint remover to remove the old lacquer from the brass, I don't know. You whistle and I'll point at the idiot. I also need to purchase some sheet spring steel as the two small ratchet springs that arrest the wheel that supports the weight after it is lifted by the electromagnet are worn. The two from the donor clock that I purchased are worse. I am hoping that I will be able to manufacture new springs without having to fiddle about with tempering etc to the steel. I have some ideas on that front. How many things until the clock is no longer the original? Like an axe. Heard a woodchopper on tv once saying that he had replaced the head on his axe twice and the handle three times, but it was the same axe that he began woodchopping with. 😉
    • I use the exact OD and it fits in with a little force and a pleasing 'click' so it's snug and wont rotate within the holder, but that depends on how you have set up and calibrated your printer so you may need to play with the settings/dimensions a little to allow for any discrepancies in your printer calibration. PS I just finished (2 days ago) a new revision which automatically prints the movement OD on the bottom of the holder, I'll see if I can upload it here Here is rev 4 remember to change the .pdf to .FCStd so it will open in FreeCAD - also you may need to install the LiberationSansBold font and tell FreeCAD where it lives on your PC, or change the font to something you already have on your system. Para Movement Holder V4.pdf
    • Only someone on this forum would ever understand the Oooooo I just did
    • Hi, guys I'm very interested in printing out this design as I've seen the orignals used on many occasions and I'm fed up with my movements popping out the standard Bergeon type so want to give this type a go 😀  As I've never used this type before should the movement be a snug fit in the holder? Once you've measured the diameter of the movement do you put this exact value in the spreadsheet or increase it a little 🤔 Comments would be appreciated 👍  
×
×
  • Create New...