Jump to content

BULOVA WORLD TIME 11 BKACB__DAY WHEEL?


Recommended Posts

Hello,

Its been a while since I've posted, so I have decided to share this problem  I am having with a bulova 11BKACB. I am not familiar with this specific caliber, but am very familiar with the cal. 11 family from Bulova. Good robust movements without too many idiosyncrasies. This watch I received with the day wheel not showing through the window, so there was already an issue with it. After cleaning and oiling, the day wheel begins to turn just after the date, but for some reason stops short of turning over and just clicks back to the previous day. I have tried opening up the day indicator detention spring (part 586) and putting a little grease on it, but its no-go. This would usually be an easy issue but the thing has given me a headache with the number of times I've had to remove the dial. The other issue is that the parts are mostly all exclusive to this particular. I'd like to replace the calendar driving wheel , the day wheel and that pesky part 506 is I could find it....any input appreciated. Watch runs strong other than that.

 

Regards,

J

DSCN5367.thumb.jpg.43ee715b038094f33fb31e97ba1d0794.jpg

DSCN5369.thumb.jpg.dc88396108e098a2bcfa60f4c6ecf5ee.jpg

 

DSCN5370.thumb.jpg.57e315f314c650d29b396a5cf8df1b55.jpg

7D9AC770-0F02-42F1-A2DA-F7E47A96D10B.thumb.jpg.b368bd968c96c59782db2d64f9d22b57.jpg

 

This last pic was pre cleaning!!! As you can see it looks filthy.DSCN5365.jpg

Edited by noirrac1j
typo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, rogart63 said:

If i remember correct there could  be some problem with a tiny little spring on the date pusher.  Think the movement Marc is thinking about is AS1906 

Yes indeed. That tiny little spring I have pushed further out so that it can provide more tension and at least keep the day within the window. I am observing it to see if it will turn over properly. Thanks for the feedback Rogart.

 

J

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thinking of something that happen to me. Again :) Sounds like i have had every trouble there is :) 

is it the original crystal. And tension ring? If not that could get you some trouble if it gets to much pressure on the dial. The tension ring need to have a recessed  edge. Where the dial lays in. If you take a generic it wont work. Just a thought . 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmm, that's a very specific problem indeed. I don't know if it's original, but it looks it. The fit between the dial and the crystal is perfect and the crystal itself looks quite old, which indicates it may not have been replaced.

J

Edited by noirrac1j
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...


  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I tried that and i thought i had made a decent job of it.  The cooling down period was probably not long enough. It drilled but not that easily. These cheap carbides are ok and they do drill hard steel but they need to run fast and straight, there is no manual hand drilling with them. And still there is the slower process of shaping the piece if its still hard but it is doable by hand . I'm hoping this little mill will template hard steel.
    • Hiya Stephen, well no there isn't anything wrong with a loupe and staking set as such. I'm just looking for a more convenient way to assemble a balance. What i dont like about the staking set is the position your head needs to be in to see whats happening and i know nothing can be done about that, the tool can only be used upright and the frame can be a bit distracting when looking from different angles ( for me anyway because I'm an awkward bugger ) So apart from using a stake kit to fit a staff i always press on the roller and hairspring freehand using a block, and usually with a loupe. So i changed that and tried doing it with a jeweling tool on its side, worked ok using a loupe for magnification better still under a scope . My thoughts are to simplify that further with something i can pick up, look at it easily from all sides and from above and that can fuction like a jeweling tool but more hand holdable without a micrometer . 
    • Using carbon steel from a feeler gauge, I must have got lucky the first time I annealed. The hole drilled just like it was mild steel - it just went straight through. Shaping with a file was also so easy. The next time I used the same set of feeler gauges. Annealed as before ... and broke 2 drills. Couldn't touch it. Took three more attempts at annealing before I could drill a hole. But it still wasn't as soft as the first time. I now have a steel cannister (an old box spanner with the end hammered over) and some activated charcoal for my next attempt at annealing.
    • Hey all, been a while since the last post but i have some update info on drilling hardened steel for setting levers, @mikepilk if you're interested . It's a real shit of a job without the right gear 🤷‍♂️ After annealing my setting lever i did manage to drill 2 holes the first was ok and relatively quick i think i was just lucky and had something right,the second was tough and the other 2 i needed i just gave up. Pivot drills work but not great, this is supposedly after annealing. The steel is softer and shaping files seem to cut better, but hand drilling with the cheap carbide drills just does not work they break and chip like billyoh, unless...............you have the right gear. This is someway of getting the right gear. Proxon micro drill, the runout 1 1/2 from the head i cant see with x20 loupe holding a .4mm carbide bit. Proxon drill press stand makes it very useable. It isn't cheap but it is , its kind of entry level micro drilling and milling but on a fair quality tool. 0.4mm cheap crappy carbide drills eat through hard and tempered setting levers and feeler gauges ( nothing annealed ) at 5000 revs, the lowest the micromot 240v can go. No chipping of the carbide, but there is a technique involved, you cant just push your way through in one go and i think that might be to do with hardening of the steel as the drill end sits burnishing away on the surface of the steel or maybe the bit needs to bite in. The bit has to bite and back off a dozen times to get through but its about 30 seconds to 1 minute depending how brave you are, i drilled dry so a drop of oil could very well improve the situation. Its not the exact setup i was after but i figure i have some multi use here . Proxon do a few bigger more versatile milling machines and Dell put me onto a make that I'm considering but more like next year now. The little setup i have here is a little introduction to milling for me, i think i like it for now.
    • Thanks John, I think that is where the problem started for this watch. It was taken for a battery replacement by the diver (owner) and the technician didn't tighten the crown and the then owner didn't check (assuming done by the battery replacer) and of course the salt water flooded in. It came to me as a parts watch. As part of my watch repair journey, I am excited to see if I can at least get the analogue time function to work again. It would need a factory service if it were to ever go beneath the waves again, as would any dive watch purchased from ebay or etsy etc. rob
×
×
  • Create New...