Jump to content

ETA 2836-2 Auto Mechanism Issue


Dico

Recommended Posts

Hello All,

I just serviced an ETA 2836-2 which runs flawlessly up until the auto mechanism is put back on. Without the auto mechanism it runs almost a full 36 hours when fully wound but once the auto mechanism is on it stops intermittently every few hours even when its sitting still. The mechanism is seated correctly and I verified nothing is interfering with the balance. Any thoughts on what can be causing this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yup, this is a classic eta issue.. firstly, the rotor and reversing wheels must be as clean as physically possible..

the rotor bearing requires a very small drop of oil on 1 or 2 of the balls

each reversing wheel requires the smallest possible oil on the tip of each pawl where it contacts the mating locking surface inside the wheel, and possibly a miniscule drop between the wheel arbor and the free running wheel of the reverser (hard to describe, and sometimes this doesnt work)

I use 9010 to lubricate these, after epilaming, to make sure the oil doesn't sod off to places I don't want it ;-)

if after doing this, demagnetising, and it still makes the rotor "propellor", clean them, repeat the process and don't be surprised if you need to do it a 3rd time ;-)

if you do make it to the 3rd time, the reversing wheel may need replacing..

Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Lubeta is meant to work well, unfortunately getting a single bottle of it into Australia is prohibitively expensive ($4-500) due to hazardous material charges.. the 9010 is what is used at the swatch group service centre here, and more easily available.

The lubeta does also leave a white non-uniform residue over the entire part, so isn't appropriate for watches with a visible movement.

Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All,

So over the past 2 weeks or so I've tried cleaning and oiling the auto mechanism 3 different times...that didn't work

Change out the rotor completely to a brand new one....that didn't work

Change the whole auto mechanism including rotor to a new one....and that didn't work

I'm at a loss here....is there anything else that can be causing this god forsaken watch to stop ONLY when an auto mechanism is re-attached to it??

:startle:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oops, I just realized you meant the main movement was stopping, I was just thinking you hadn't got the auto winding properly...

Check anywhere there might be a pivot being interfered with, (centre seconds is a common one if the second hand has been put on without supporting the jewel), that the train bridge is flat, and not being pressed on by the auto bridge, also where the auto transmission wheel post goes into the barrel bridge, there's an opportunity for pressure...

Another one that just came to mind, make sure the auto bridge isn't pressing on the regulator on the balance cock...

Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the watch still runs for 36 hours without the auto then it is still the auto or auto assembly that is the issue. I have read many times that most auto wheels run better not being lubricated just cleaned. ETA developed Lubeta to address this but I would be very surprised if this was the issue. I would say it is a assembly issue. Is it possible to a post a pic or even better a short vid of the movement running and the auto rotation.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for all the great responses. Taking the advice of clockboy I’ve included 2 short videos so you all can see the movement, screws and how things are seated. In this condition shown in the video, the watch runs flawlessly.

As soon as the rotor is placed on it again it stops within 12 hours. I’ll post another video with the rotor attached. I’ve changed the whole auto assembly to a new one so I don’t think the issue is there. It must be something else. Could the mainspring barrel cause this?

7CAE1615-DF00-49CD-B7F8-B75405400A15.MOV

BD73A76B-151D-4C8C-924E-67262647F793.MOV

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi everyone

Still having the same issue here. I noticed after the last video I posted that even after winding a few times the balance does not start moving. In fact I have to shake the watch to get it going and then it’s fine as long as rotor is off. Can that have anything to do with the stopping issue I’m encountering? Issue with the barrel?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi All,

I'm still troubleshooting here. Noticed when it stops its always at the 51 or 52 second mark. The hours in between are random could be as little as 10 mins or as much as 12 hours - but always stops at about the same seconds mark. What does this mean??

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • All Done, Here are the finished pictures: This one shows the generic "one-size-fits-all" base which accepts the bespoke rings - notice that the parametric movement OD (27.40 mm) automatically prints on the ring 🙂 From another angle: Here is the ring about to go into the base: And finally the base and ring together: Here it is next to a pen for scale: On my system with 20% fill each ring will take about 18 mins to print, but I am sure this could be optimised: Here is the screenshot of the spreadsheet in FreeCAD, you just need to change one value to create the ring in cell C3, (the base doesn't need any changes). I'll upload the files to printables in due course, but here whey are as a fake pdf, please change the .pdf to .zip to make the file worn once downloaded: Modular Movement Holder.pdf Any feedback welcome!    
    • I'm going to give that a go next time, thanks for a great idea @rossjackson01 One of my students uses this tool and swears by it https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/wheel-hand-roller-remover-bergeon?code=W1851 which is very like getting two sticks of pegwood under the wheel and rolling them in your fingers so they create a slight prying from underneath motion, I suppose. Maybe bind one end of the two sticks of pegwood so they are like tweezers.
    • Thank you. I spent a lot of time on that.   It never ceases to amaze me that there are so many slight adjustments that can be made to the chronograph mechanism through setting the eccentric studs to get them all to a concerto, like an orchestra with everything in time and to its most optimum. Understanding that setting one stud to the desired effect may throw another out is the fun of working on vintage chronographs. Great pic of the 3133 dart tooth interaction and tilt of the tooth. I love working on 3133s. Slightly better than the 7733 in my opinion and you get a date at 6!
    • Thanks Richard The stem is 0.6mm wide. At least the part that the crown goes onto. Is that enough info to order a new stem and crown and look a pics of the stem so check that the part that goes into the keyless works matches the one I have? Asking out of ignorance! Cheers, Nick
    • Probably Chinese, you can measure the stem you have. 
×
×
  • Create New...