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    • By Rob1949
      Hi
      I new to this forum and I am looking for some advice please. I have a Breitling Top Time 2006-33
      I have removed the rear cover and taken of the winder and unscrewed the screw hold the movement
      the movement is free within the body, however I cannot see how to remove it from the body. Any suggestion or help would be most welcome. Regards Rob1949
    • By Cont3mplation
      Hi all. I'm absolutely brand new to the world of mechanical watches, but have always been fascinated by the way they functioned. So, I took my first step into them, getting myself a cheap, crappy ebay mechanical watch with a chinese movement. I knew that by all accounts this would be a rubbish movement and mechanism, however I wanted something that I could take a look at without risking any sort of investment, gauge my interest in the hobby etc. However, after receiving it, one of my friends let me know that he had a near identical cheap watch that was broken, and offered me to have a look at it as practice. I agreed, and have spent the last few days doing research and taking it apart, before putting it back together again. I've managed to learn quite a lot from it, however I've found that when putting it back together again, the pole of the escape wheel that keeps it in place either end seems to be too short, as though something had broken off. This means the wheel is sat basically loose and wont reach the crystals at either side to keep it in place while it spins. I see no way to fix this, so i intended to get a new wheel to replace it with, however I can't find the name of this type of movement anywhere. It is the kind used in this: ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/Jechin-Skeleton-Hand-Wind-Leather-Mechanical/dp/B00VPRZC50/ref=asc_df_B00VPRZC50/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=290896788181&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13027367026987882679&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9047006&hvtargid=aud-545868369748:pla-468442151749&psc=1 ) . If I really wanted to I think I could just order one of the other watches that I've found that use this movement for £5-6, however I was hoping I might be able to keep to my strict student budget and get just the escape wheel somewhere. Does anyone know where I'd be able to find something like that?
      p.s. Apologies for the lack of knowledge on the subject, I know I'll come across a bit new to the whole thing, but trying to learn as I go
    • By Highballn2
      20190925_101850_1.mp4 My Oris dropped onto the street, no cosmetic issues, rotor spins hands move everything seems in order nothing's rattling inside, yet it's completely dead!?? That 7750 kept better time than my Muhle and Tudor, real workhorse, maybe something really obvious I'm overlooking?  
    • By Joshua
      Hey, so I have a question. I've got an Invicta dive watch with a NH35A movement here that whenever I unthread the stem and crown as it is unthreading the date starts changing. Once its unthreaded I can change it to the 1, 2 and 3 positions and set and wind it accordingly. How can I fix this and what is causing this? 
       
      Yours truly, Josh
    • By tmilligan
      Question for those who work on Vintage Timex watches:
      I've restored several Timex pieces from the late '60s to the late '70s.  The technique I learned (from Internet posts and tutorials) say to simply loosen the dial-side balance pivot by unscrewing it 1/2 turn prior to cleaning the entire movement in an ultrasonic cleaner.  This method contradicts the official Timex service manuals, which state that the balance should be removed, cleaned separately and reinstalled.  Thus preventing the hairspring form being damaged in the ultrasonic cleaner.
      My experience is this: 
      Leaving the balance in place (slightly loosened) is much easier and will work on the standard movements used in the '70s (M24/25, M32/33, M104, etc.) Attempting the same method on movements from the '50s and '60s (M22, M29, etc) will result in a kinked hairspring that is damn near impossible to un-kink.  So my question is this:
      What do you experienced Timex restoration experts recommend?  Leave the balance/hairspring in the movement for cleaning, or take it out to soak in a separate jar?
      Is the potential for hairspring damage greater when removing/reinstalling the balance - in comparison to leaving it in place?
      I've messed up a couple of vintage movements that I really wish I hadn't.   I don't want to make those mistakes again.
      Thanks for any insights!
        -Todd
       
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    • Welcome to the forum Mike.
    • Hallo. My Thomas Earnshaw ES 8059 automatic watch stop working. I did some research so basically company is using Chinese parts… however It is a gift from very important person and I also love design of watch so I really want to keep it. It does not responds to winder, only when I “shake” left/right it, it starts working but only for 5-10 minutes. Any idea if this can be fixed?? Also I am interesting in, what movement it has… I tried to find info, but I cant get it.   Thank you all.   
    • Hey mike also new here, welcome Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    • @EatPeach asked if it would be OK for keyless work, and I would suggest that this is the one part of the watch I would risk it on. I have used engine oil on an old low value alarm clock, and it worked fine. Furthermore, I expect it will continue to work fine, and it is infinitely better than no oil at all.  I wouldn't use engine oil on an expensive pocket watch. However the original manufacturer of the pocket watch probably used whale oil or similar, so arguably synthetic motor oil is better than whale oil. I guess the reality is that if you intend to keep the watch, no problem, experiment as much as you like.  If you are doing things commercially, then you may not want to risk it. Personally I would give it a try, but then again, I would only try it on a low cost piece to start with.
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