Padd here from the UK.
It all started with a desire to fix a Submariner replica I bought off a lucky lucky man in Pisa, Italy while on a European tour.
Next thing I know I'm investigating Submariner replicas and building my own, signed by me, using a Seagull ST2130 movement, adventure watch.
Now I'm hooked, I took inspiration from Marks videos, now I'm happily starting to work on parts of the movement, and have recovered one or two movements where the stem came out, but wouldn't stay back in. I have built a few watches for friends and relations, but now I need to be able to service them when they come back to me.
I also have a couple of movements that run really badly, so I will be practising on those over the winter weekends. Full repair/servicing kit IS my Christmas present.
I really want to get one of those ST2130's, serviced and tweaked by me, doing a -------------------------- on my timegrapher. not a -.'-.'''--,'.'.' (and worse) that they do at the moment.
I wont start to list my watch collection, but it runs from a Casio digital to a Rolex pocket watch with Seikos, Citizens, Omegas and home builds in the mix.
Must do Mark's course, but I'm afraid I may have already learned 60+% of it already.
Hello there. I have a question about readout / operation of my timegrapher.
I've tested about 15 quartz watches (new and old), and amplitude on all read either 176° or 175°. My question is whether this is the highest reading for quartz watches in contrary to 270° on mechanical watches, or is there something wrong? I've tried to search google and not much info about it.
When it starts in Auto mode with quartz watches it always starts with 12000 (parameters) and doesn't adjust automatically, so I have manually to dial it up to 3600 in order to get it to read properly, (with the very few mechanical watches so far it adjust itself). Is this the way it should work, or something wrong with it?
I've found that some quartz watches like small ladies watches and sports watches, don't give readings even though I tried pushing the watch toward the sensor, for whatever reason the reading is too weak or something?
Thanks for your help.
I was wondering how do the timegrapher phone app's out there compare to a dedicated bench top machine. I'm guessing it's all down to the piezoelectric pickup? I installed tickoprint on my phone the other day. But to get the full features you need to shell out $30, if you then also have to shell out for a piezoelectric mic, then you are almost at the same price point as a cheap chinese bench top machine!
HI EVERYONE ...I had a Seiko5 SNZG15K1 ...I started playing around with the regulator and bought a timegraph 1000 ... anyways as I was moving the beat lever the hairspring stopped . I removed the spring , wheel and cock and the spring was a mess. I just want to know do these watches come ready to regulate or do you have to turn the brass stay bits on the end that hold the spring ..I think that the spring jumped on mine .but at the time I wasn't thinking straight and ran to disassemble it when I should of looked a bit closer back then ..Thanks Lenny...........
Hi from warmish Edmonton, where the winter is almost done - for now!
I'm working on an old grandfather clock for a friend, probably 18th century, that is weight driven. This was overhauled about 20 years ago apparently, and the watchmaker used "catgut" for the cords. These have now hardened and are unusable as they are so stiff. I went on the Perrin's website and they offer catgut but state that this is usually used for clocks with wooden pulleys, however the clock I am working on has all brass pulleys. My question therefore is, should I use catgut, or should I use nylon or other synthetic? I don't think the owner will have a preference for catgut from an authenticity point of view and will be fine with whatever I use.
What would actually happen if I used catgut with brass pulleys? Would nylon or other synthetic damage the brass pulleys over time? If you can give me your thoughts of the pros of cons of both, I'd appreciate it.
Thanks as always.
I’ll apologise in advance...
That statement really piqued my interest. If my maths is right the watch is now right once every six days, instead of twice a day. So it was technically a more accurate timepiece when it wasn’t working at all... I know, I’m a knob, but I find maths interesting!
For the dial issue, what the other people said. Redial, brass based, similar style. Good luck and keep asking the questions, most of us learn as much from the questions other people ask as the ones we do ourselves!
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