Jump to content

Waltham Pocket Watch


Recommended Posts

As I was cleaning my Waltham Hunter today I noticed the separate seconds arbour was slightly bent. It may have been bent before since I've never disassembled it until today.

I'm wondering if I should attempt to straighten it or simply reassemble the watch after it is cleaned and oiled and hope for the best. It was working until the mainspring broke and I took it apart to replace the mainspring - an interesting job!

I look forward to your comments. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would agree wholeheartedly with that. In the past I've had some difficulty in getting parts for (pre-Swiss) vintage American watch makes. It's probably easier to get such parts if you live in the US (from Ofrei, etc.), but I recall having tremendous difficulties in getting hold of Hamilton 992 balance staffs - and buying 2 or 3 of them when I finally found a source!

If you can live with your slightly out-of-kilter part, do so.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you have any ideas on how I can be assured the hook will grab the hole in the spring? There is a double arbour. The hook is on the barrel wheel but there is a separate arbour for winding. It is a kind of a complicated set-up. 

I'm leaning toward squeezing the spring together a little but I afraid I'll break it...again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your set up is not uncommon on American pocket watches. It's fine to give the spring a bit of a squeeze. When you refit the mainspring barrel, it can still slip and sometimes takes several attempts to get it right if you're unlucky. Particularly if the hook is a little worn but you can re-shape it a bit with with some careful filing.

Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, digginstony said:

Your set up is not uncommon on American pocket watches. It's fine to give the spring a bit of a squeeze. When you refit the mainspring barrel, it can still slip and sometimes takes several attempts to get it right if you're unlucky. Particularly if the hook is a little worn but you can re-shape it a bit with with some careful filing.

Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
 

I got it winding OK but I can't set the watch so I'll go back and see what I can find. It works fine but for this little problem. Not sure what the problem could be but probably something to do with the stem not placed properly. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got it winding OK but I can't set the watch so I'll go back and see what I can find. It works fine but for this little problem. Not sure what the problem could be but probably something to do with the stem not placed properly. 
Well that's strange. If you can't see any thing apparent, you need to remove the crown. Once done you'll see the stem sits in a sleeve that is threaded. You will need an appropriate sleeve wrench to make adjustments. From memory, screwing down allows to wind. Anticlockwise allows you to set the time. When the balance is right, you can do both !
Unusual.. You only normally come across this with these types of watches when fitting a replacement movement or the case sleeve is loose.

Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you can find a serial number on the movement, drop it into this database - if you haven't done this already, of course:

Pocket watch database

It will give you lots of data about the watch. If the crown doesn't pop out to set the watch, then it's either pin set or lever set; the first is obvious - the second not! And apologies if I'm teaching granny to suck eggs! B)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the stem doesn’t work correctly and won’t engage then the key which is inside of the case which the stem goes through in the case needs to be adjusted. You will need to unscrew the button to get to it. There is a proper tool for this, you need to turn it whichever way so it engages the winding and setting hand wheels for it to work correctly.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, WillFly said:

If you can find a serial number on the movement, drop it into this database - if you haven't done this already, of course:

Pocket watch database

It will give you lots of data about the watch. If the crown doesn't pop out to set the watch, then it's either pin set or lever set; the first is obvious - the second not! And apologies if I'm teaching granny to suck eggs! B)

Thank you mutely! This will help a lot.

 

3 hours ago, oldhippy said:

I found this for you. It will help you to understand about my previous post.

 

This video is exactly what I'm looking for. I don't even feel to guilty for using it since I've already paid for his clock course.

Thank you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, WillFly said:

If you can find a serial number on the movement, drop it into this database - if you haven't done this already, of course:

Pocket watch database

It will give you lots of data about the watch. If the crown doesn't pop out to set the watch, then it's either pin set or lever set; the first is obvious - the second not! And apologies if I'm teaching granny to suck eggs! B)

'Mutely' should be 'muchly' but I'm sure you already know that...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi All

Happy Labour Day.

I fiddled with the thing today and I can now set the hands. I have no idea what I did to make it work so I have nothing of note, technically, to contribute to this forum except that if you fiddle with it enough and hold your tongue just so it will all come out right - at least in terms of Waltham Hunters. 

There is a little lever beside the key hole that I pushed in all the way before re-casing the watch; this may have been why the hands wouldn't set before and do now. 

I am having a dickens of a time putting the crystal back on the watch. It snaps on but it sure doesn't go quietly into the night...

Maybe there's a tool for that too...like tools to adjust repetition lever springs on grand pianos...who knew?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Snap! I recently finished my Gruen 510 movement - though the case for mine is in a rather sad state; I'm going to try re-plating it (in nickel, it's not a gold one).   Re. the screws, I got a few of the one gram mixed batches from ebay. I've only needed a couple of screws for things so far, both rare, minuscule types - but both in the mix, after enough time sorting through them! The ones such as normal bridge screws are quite common in those lots.  
    • Two pins or screwdrivers angled out slightly, pressing through from the barrel centre from the opposite side so they contact just clear of the hole in the lid? eg. Strap pin driver needles or similar.
    • That's a good idea - shrinking down the nut and wrench size from the old casebook trick!
    • I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
×
×
  • Create New...