Jump to content

Cleaning old Valuable Clocks / Timepieces etc


Recommended Posts

I was at my local watch and clock makers association meeting on the weekend and during a discussion after the meeting was finished one member raised a point that old (250 years or older) and valuable clocks or timepieces should not be cleaned with modern cleaning solutions because it could ruin them. He was taking it to mean it could damage the material the item was made from.

I have a slightly different take on this, yes the alloy of brass and quality of steel (iron) will be different to modern items, but I don't think it would so much damage it as maybe remove some of its history. Such as marking out lines from when it was made, also I would feel returning a 300 year old clock to 'as new' condition would be wrong and it should preserve its patina. There is obviously exceptions to this where an item is so far gone where restoration is the only option, but I would say in general a more conservative cleaning would be in order.

Just thought this might be an interesting topic to discuss.

I will add that I have not touched nor do I see myself working on a rare and valuable clock / timepiece in the near future.

Edited by Tmuir
correct spelling mistakes
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is a train of thought amongst some clock repairers that ammonia based cleaners should not be used on older movements because it can cause stress fractures to form in brass plates  due to the process used to make them on older clocks by hammering brass plate to the correct thickness rather than rolling on more modern movements thus putting the brass under stress, but I think most are happy to use them as long as the parts cleaned are rinsed well after cleaning and exposure to them is limited.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not a clock repairer but I would lean on whatever was best and most safe and effective to clean the hidden functional parts for that particular clock (so yes by all means consider changing cleaning method if you're worried about causing cracks or such) should be prioritised over any sentiment historical or otherwise, for visible parts such as the face and hands obviously a different mindset is necessary and I would say virtually no cleaning is the ideal (to preserve the patina) unless it's gotten to an extreme where no one would want to look at it and then you're looking at restoring. But I'm not really familiar with clock making practices, it's possible minor feats of re enameling and painting and chemical cleaning are used on the face is standard practice. 

Where's Clockboy :D

Edited by Ishima
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is a bit of a minefield. Some say it does some say it does not.

There is a big difference in a repair and a restore. You should never restore something that does not need restoring.

Very old brass is extremely hard and can be a sod just too even ream out, it can and will take the edge of a reamer/broach it also has tiny pockets of air which some say clock cleaning solutions can get into the pockets and the brass becomes inferior over time. I have yet to see such a thing, just how much time do they expect?  A lot depends on the type of clock, how it looked when it was new. A restore should never be different in any way from when it was new. If parts were not polished then they should never be polished now. Any marks in the plates never should be removed or polished out, this is why you should never use any type of electric machine when it comes to polishing and everything should be undertaken by hand.

Brasso is what I used to clean the plates and if parts were to be polished then a cloth would be used. All parts washed out in petrol and dried in sawdust, brushed clean to remove sawdust and French chalked, applied with a very clean brush, the chalk is taken to the brush. I had a hand soft bristle brush just for this work. French chalk stopes tarnish. If a dial is in a bad way and the customer agrees to a restore, the dial is restored to its original appearance, the same applies to the case.

This is a very basic run through.  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for that oldhippy.

I recently purchased a watch makers handbook published in 1882 when I get a moment I will scan the pages on cleaning as it makes for some interesting reading, it talks about french chalk and brushing, but also using bread and charred bone, which neither of the last two are in my cleaning kit. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thank you so much, Hector and CJ. I appreciate the tech sheet and the video. Gasp, I think I will make the attempt. What's the worst that can happen? I think there may be a new balance complete in my future, though.  I'll update the post and let you know the result. R, Frank  
    • So here is the new base (v 2.1), I made it so that the base will fit over and swallow the stump of the hand pusher tool (or at least my clone of the tool), I also reduced the OD of the bottom skirt a little as it looked/felt a little large, here are a few pictures and the fake .pdf file which you need to convert to .zip once downloaded.   The cut-out seen on the below image on the bottom of the base should swallow the OD (40 mm, +0.1 mm tolerance) of the stump and the height of the stump 9.5mm (measured to 9.1mm, but rounded to 9.5mm) - let me know if this works for your tool.   Note, I think you may need to print supports for the new internal shelf created? Here is the fake .pdf for just the FreeCAD base file and 3mf files Modular Movement Holder.pdf Here is the fake pdf for complete set of the new base and ring FreeCAD/3mf files: Modular Movement Holder base and ring v 2.1.pdf However, I'm wondering how often you could use this feature, adding the dial usually increases the OD of the movement, so you would need a new (larger) adapter ring tuned to the OD of the dial and I wouldn't like to grip the dial in any kind of movement holder if It could be avoided for fear of damaging it. Maybe I'm misunderstanding you?
    • Hi Frank, you have dived headlong into the deep end. Hairspring work has to be the scariest thing a newbie has to tackle. Your hairspring appears to be bent and just putting it back into the regulator would not allow the balance to work properly. It might start oscillating but the performance would not be good. The proper thing to do is to unstud the hairspring, remove the hairspring from the balance, reinstall the hairspring on the stud carrier, reshape the endcurve and centre the collet to the balance jewel hole. This challenge would either make you or break you. Hope that you will be able to fix your watch. Welcome to the world of watchmaking.  Watch this video. It think it'll give you an idea of the task ahead. From your 1st photo, I think you have a etachron type stud. Let me see if I can find a video on how to remove it from the arm.
    • Have read of the Tech Sheet attached on the balance section page 12. It may be bent but until you reposition it back in the regulator pins you'll never know. Cheers CJ 4R35B_4R36A.pdf
    • Aloha All, My Seiko 4R35B movement stopped working today. Upon closer inspection, it looks like the balance spring came out of the regulator pin. This is my first time working on a balance. Any advice on how to get this spring repositioned (back to normal)? I'm pretty sure that while adjusting the beat error on this movement, I must have turned the stud (I didn't even know they turned), and the spring eventually fell out.  Will the spring go back to even spacing when it's back in the pin, or does it look bent? Thanks, Frank  
×
×
  • Create New...