Jump to content

How much?


Recommended Posts

Its just one of Ebays many chancers putting flowery descriptions to vastly over inflated prices but the old saying "If you dont ask you dont get" springs to mind somewhere someone with more money than sense will part with it and the sellers quids in and laughing all the way to the bank. He describes the watch as 80% or 8/10 that's a very bold assessment for a watch that looks dog rough "some bezel wear" :thumbsd:

Any sane person would avoid this like the plague but Ebay attracts crackpots like bees round honey so I would not be surprised to see it sell.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

LOL! Well it made me do a big double take.

Bezel wear? Nothing a bit of T-Cut couldn't buff out! :huh:

I've got a couple of Marvins myself and realise they're nice watches but way down the cost hierarchy! If I had nigh on $10k to spend on a watch it wouldn't be on this Marvin which looks like it's been in a cement mixer.

The seller is open to offers though so I'm with WillFly ... maybe a $9.95 offer instead of the $9,950?!! 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, oldhippy said:

There are so many sharks on ebay. You have to be very careful. Ask the seller to open the back and photo the movement and post the pictures. I bet the answer will be I can't open it.

At $9,950 for a true piece of crap I would not care even if he opens the back of the Big Ben.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Gary

The movement I need is a 580C. Occasionally keep an eye out on ebay but not much luck so far!

I don't think I have one. I will Look> just

to be sure. I'll keep an eye out as I monitor for one of the ones I need! If I find one I'll post !

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you so much Gary - that would be great.

I have  a good condition dial that another posting a while back on this forum was helpfully identified as originally being mated to a Marvin 580C movement. I'm only an amateur and trying to solder on new dial feet to fit an alternative movement is just asking for trouble; I can just imagine the paint on the dial melting etc.! This is why I'm holding out for a 580C.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I've got a few watches I would sell for $9,950.

 I have a friend here in Honolulu that will call me on occasion and tell me about a deal such as this one .  He says , " did you see how much that watch is selling for ?" I always tell him that the asking price is not necessarily the selling price . You can ask for anything , and re-post it next week  at a discount.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • That's a good idea - shrinking down the nut and wrench size from the old casebook trick!
    • I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
×
×
  • Create New...