Jump to content

D-5 okay for Crown seal?


Recommended Posts

I am finding that I have some resistance when pushing the crown back in to wind it closed on an ETA 2824-2. I think that the seal under the crown might be a little dry and that some oil might do the trick. Will a few drops of D-5 be suitable to put on the seal or is grease better...or something else? I seem to use D-5 as my goto magic all purpose oil :-) 

Cheers

John 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Solution, I think, well seems to have resolved the issue was a little KT-22 around the thread and on the seal. 

 

As I suspected, D-5 didn't do much at all. 

Edited by John Hondros
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, John Hondros said:

I am finding that I have some resistance when pushing the crown back in to wind it closed on an ETA 2824-2. I think that the seal under the crown might be a little dry and that some oil might do the trick. Will a few drops of D-5 be suitable to put on the seal or is grease better...or something else? I seem to use D-5 as my goto magic all purpose oil :-) 

Cheers

John 

 

 

 

A silicone grease of some sort should be used. Oil could seep & contaminate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for the info. I did wonder whether the oil would seep and contaminate.  It makes intuitive sense that grease is what should be applied to rubber seals/o-rings. I should have trusted my gut instinct I guess 

 

Thanks! 

:)

Edited by John Hondros
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thank you all for the replies!  Very informative! True enough, the Gamsol took some time to evaporate and does leave a residue. So not all naphtha are created equal!  Need to find alternatives then. i was able to try Hexane recommended by Alex and it seems great.  I wonder what the cons are?
    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
    • I did not. I thought about it, but I had cleaned it in my ultrasonic, and the tech sheet shows lubricating it in place already assembled, so I figured discretion was the better part of valor. Although since I have to depth the jewels anyway, maybe I pull the pinion off to rule it out 100% as part of the problem. Do you know if there's a safe way to do it? I don't want to use a puller because it would push down on the plane of the wheel, and that seems like a Bad Idea. I thought about using a roller table remover, but I don't think I have a hole stake pointy enough to push it down.
×
×
  • Create New...