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Waterproof Testers


omgiv

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Also the professional divers I know tend to replace their gaskets every 2 to 3 years and have them tested.
Most failures tend to be at the crown gasket rather than the cashback due to neglect of that gasket.
For me, splashing around in the sea or swimming pool. The standard 3atm test, will be more than sufficient, after any work carried out.
If you are diving. Attention to your tanks and gauges are more desirable, if you wish to reach a ripe old age [emoji16]

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30 minutes ago, digginstony said:

Also the professional divers I know tend to replace their gaskets every 2 to 3 years and have them tested.
Most failures tend to be at the crown gasket rather than the cashback due to neglect of that gasket.
For me, splashing around in the sea or swimming pool. The standard 3atm test, will be more than sufficient, after any work carried out.
If you are diving. Attention to your tanks and gauges are more desirable, if you wish to reach a ripe old age emoji16.png

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These are the standards required.

5993f9373342f_ScreenShot2017-08-16at08_35_35.png.76fe94fc2f2ffc376d9faff95d68db74.png

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The point is, a watch either leaks or it doesn't. I would of liked a better machine or even a Elma dry tester (Have you seen the price of them !)
If I was a serious diver my choice of watch wouldn't be the Rolex sub but the Sinn.
Same as if I were in the middle of nowhere in rugged terrain, my choice wouldn't be the Rolex explorer but the Casio g shock.
I once went under a waterfall only to be met by another and I was on the wrong end of it and literally had to fight the current back.
I forgot to take my watch off. It was a Swatch fitted with an eta 2841-1. No bar rating does say water resistant. Domed acrylic crystal. Never let in any water.
Haven't worn this watch for years. Just taken it out it's plastic bag and it's started ticking !

ac08f8c3c6e4732856e7b6f5b93c9608.jpg

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On 8/15/2017 at 5:23 PM, digginstony said:

 

I've just ordered one of these testers. Looking on youtube how to use one. Says you have to remove the bracelet. This can be a real pain with solid endlinks. Do any of you guys leave the bracelet on and rig it somehow ?

Yes, leaving the bracelet is perfectly fine. All you need is to position it to be able to look at the back and crown to spot the bubbles, if any.

Also, testing above 5 or 6 bar , which is a lot already, is next to useless.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Some more testing.
Today I tested my Seiko turtle, mainly because it was running slow when bought this year, brand new from a dealer in Malta. And the best error was 0.7 face up. So I adjusted and regulated it. I did notice when it arrived, it was boxed but the watch had no wrapping on it. I didn't bother to change the case back gasket, so I thought I would give it a test. It FAILED on the crown gasket !
The second watch was a Rotary/ Omega homage. It has no water resistant rating but the bold statement on the dial (WATERPROOF) Thought that was not used these days !!! But by implication has an indefinite rating. It FAILED on the Crystal gasket ! The watch has never been apart.
Third was my 4 year old Seiko that's had a hard life. I've just finished a refurb on it. I used the old gaskets ! When assembling so thought I better test it. It passed with flying colours. My Skx did as well.
The point is, if going anywhere near water, test or have your watch tested, even if brand new.
I believe Manufacturers are reluctant to take liability on there watches, even if a certified diver. The test is considered valid on the day of testing. Best of luck getting a replacement watch after your watch stops after a couple of years because the movement has rusted up [emoji21]d143d2a007a811448a1d0f012f7a8233.jpg778eec72dffea6516a07004955cbe359.jpg

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Every repair or bat. replacement on a water resistant watch will be tested dry on my ACL2000.
If there is a leakage I remove movement and test the case without movement wet to determine the location of the leakage. Mostly a filthy crown package is the guilty suspect.

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Every repair or bat. replacement on a water resistant watch will be tested dry on my ACL2000.
If there is a leakage I remove movement and test the case without movement wet to determine the location of the leakage. Mostly a filthy crown package is the guilty suspect.
Yep I think you're right. Now I come to think about It, when I first got the turtle I found the screw down a bit awkward. Never thought to take the stem out. Just put a bit of oil on the thread. Which seemed to fix it. I bet I've got a bit of crud stuck under there. Will take it out and clean. Thankyou

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On 9/5/2017 at 0:48 PM, digginstony said:

 It FAILED on the crown gasket !
The second watch was a Rotary/ Omega homage. It has no water resistant rating but the bold statement on the dial (WATERPROOF) Thought that was not used these days !!! But by implication has an indefinite rating. It FAILED on the Crystal gasket ! The watch has never been apart.

It's common for divers, even brand new, to leak one or three tiny bubbles from the crown tune, at 3 -4 atm already. That is not a complete failure and it does not prevent normal use at the beach. The solution is sensible application of silicone grease to the crown gasket.

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Every repair or bat. replacement on a water resistant watch will be tested dry on my ACL2000.
If there is a leakage I remove movement and test the case without movement wet to determine the location of the leakage. Mostly a filthy crown package is the guilty suspect.
Just to update. I've had the stem out cleaned around the case where there was a deposit of dirt where the crown sits. The stem and crown and gasket looked ok but put it through the UC anyway.
Just pressure tested and no more stream of bubbles. Job done.
Many thanks again for your help


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It's common for divers, even brand new, to leak one or three tiny bubbles from the crown tune, at 3 -4 atm already. That is not a complete failure and it does not prevent normal use at the beach. The solution is sensible application of silicone grease to the crown gasket.
It was more than the odd bubble [emoji5]

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got My Calipso Tester about a week ago and have read Mark's comments above - I just want to check I'm doing it right. 

I'm pretty happy with it - seems a good quality piece of kit and have got the gist of how it works.  Just want to check a couple of things.
 
Q) When you pressure up the machine with the watch in the top section, if the watch seals aren't good, it forces air into the watch case.  Should you wait a set period of time to allow this to happen - or do you move to the next stage (i.e immersion in the water) straight away?   
 
Q) If after immersion - on slowly releasing the pressure with the valve - is it VERY obvious that there may be a problem i.e. a continuous stream of bubbles exiting the case from the weak point?  When I've done it with a bezel still attached I have seen the odd beading (beading is the best way I can describe it) of a couple of bubbles forming.   Since then, I've been doing this with the bezel off in case there is air trapped around the bezel giving me a false impression of a fail.   
 
Also, has anyone seen - or got a link to a video of a failed test.
 
Thanks in advance, Jason
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