Jump to content

AS/ ESA/ETA 536-121


Recommended Posts

good morning

 

I have been restoring a Squale divers watch and have discovered that the coil on the circuit is knackered. I have trawled the internet for information and it seems like this is somewhat of a holy grail and no one stocks replacement circuits aor movements and if there is one for sale it is at a horrific cost.

 

I see that people fit ETA automatic ovements instead of quartz ones but again the guy I am repairing the watch for does not want to stretch that far. I have been trying to research alternative quartz movements but have not had much luck as the suggested ones are obsolete. Has anyone come across a suitable replacement before or has anyone got a spare electric circuit for this movement going spare?

 

Many thanks

 

Andy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I believe the ETA 955 is a substitute. These are sometimes available as NOS at reasonable prices. Lots of used ones and spares about as this movement featured in lots of watches. Often badged as TAG, Longines, etc. Can be GP or plain.
If you're sure it's the coil try a generic replacement.
Good luck, Neil


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Eta 955 won't work. That movement is to thin and has the wrong size hands. It's only the CWC  G10 s.k  fatboy that have the  536.121 movement. All the other normal thin g10 use the 955.112 or 955,114. 

Check for old Certina  quartz movements. They have a movement that is called 750. That is a ETA movement. 

Edited by rogart63
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for all the helpful suggestions. I am surprised by how many alternate movements can be used but never know how to find out about them. Is there a website or somewhere on for example ETA that will list successive movements in the same family that could be used? It would be so handy if there is such a site.

 

Andy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...
  • 7 months later...

After being issued with a CWC G10 in the 1980's I've aquired several and had the ESA 536.121 fail and sourced much of this information years ago before leaning how to effectivily strip and service mechanical movements and recently purchased a quartz testing unit. Knowing the sarcity of this this movement I collected spares but fine most of them don't show a decent pulse. Some have obvious coil damage and I'm now looking to resistance test the others since there will still be a pulse if it's a gear train problem which I now adept at sorting.

Given the coils are the weak link and quartz watch curcuits almost univerally use 1.5v batteries I'm wondering if the coil could be changed with one from another type of movement preferably ETA but possibly something else such as Ronda that supply replacement coils for their movements. Under ohms law  1.5v and a similar amount of torque(power) requirement, the amp and resistance parameters for say a 11.5"'  quartz movement chip and stepper motor aren't going to vary significantly so there must be a suitable coil avaliable somewhere that would work.

The hardest part would be soldering on the very fine wires but in practice this would mean just turning the existing solder pads molten to press in the wires. What are peoples thoughts on this because the no jewel ETA/ETS 536.121 and the amonst identical but IMO better 7 jewel ESA 9362 movements are rare, expensive but were very commonly used in many good circa 1980 watches   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 e

Check this response by HSL.

In my neck of the woods, folks rewire watch coils on bench, make a DIY tool , a small motor the kind you see in toys, some sort of adaptor( hand made filed down to shape) to mount the coil core on and a role of wire, which I think most material houses carry.

Works even though not as nicely coiled as factory made ones.

Happy Christmas 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

 e

Check this response by HSL.

In my neck of the woods, folks rewire watch coils on bench, make a DIY tool , a small motor the kind you see in toys, some sort of adaptor( hand made filed down to shape) to mount the coil core on and a role of wire, which I think most material houses carry.

Works even though not as nicely coiled as factory made ones.

Happy Christmas 

 

it's interesting to hear this but the wire size and number of turns would be required and it would be a very delicate operation. Have you any idea of the sort of set up used to do this ie wire gauge number of turns resistance values etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

26 minutes ago, Clayb said:

it's interesting to hear this but the wire size and number of turns would be required and it would be a very delicate operation. Have you any idea of the sort of set up used to do this ie wire gauge number of turns resistance values etc.

I can ask how they came up with the specifications of wire.

From the top of my head, couldn't you measure electrical resistance of a good piece of coil wire? Measure its thickness?  etc.   Get help from electrical  engineers?   Post a thread on the subject? Join an electrical forum? Google for some read on the subject? 

Regs 

Joe

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’ve replaced coils before by soldering, but personally wouldn’t bother trying to wind one as it’s so fine. Guitar pickup wire is much thicker and still delicate. If you are lucky and the break is on the outer, then you can unwind until you reach the break and then re-solder. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

With the power (wattage) resistance ohms and voltage it can all be calculated it's just the very intricate and delicate nature of making such a small coil. I may try revarnishing a coil in the hope it seals potential scratchs how ever trying to replacing the coil on a ESA 536.121 seems to be the easiest approach. These old movements are fetching second hand prices similar to ETA 2824 mechanical movements that can be used as a direct replacement .

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thanks Dell. I thought about silver soldering. Have never done it but would like to give it a go. Do you think to put flux on the butted joint then run the solder in or to maybe brace it with a piece of scrap spring steel?
    • Never and others. Yes, like you I do spend a fair amount of time reading the contents of this forum. I find it better that any other. Clear, lucid, no Prima Donas, and most of all an easy access without adverts. All thanks to Mark. God bless you mate. You give so much to many of us. What if? No Mark? Hypothetically. A forum. I did run a forum for a few years. Really enjoyed it, but became so engrossed that it did affect my health. I gave to to others to run. Not been back. It was very successful and rivalled a number of large paying sites. No adverts, no others but me. I did ask and listen to members comments and it worked well.    Costs Having a domain name, £10 annually.  Register the site with a forum company, free. Build the site using the forum company guide lines, free. It looked and ran almost the same a Mark's. All the same facilities. The cost was only £5 per month, but counted visits (views). If I recall, it was that price for 5,000 views. Each extra 5,000 views increased the price by £2 per month. Success was my own personal undoing. From £5 per month initially, it rose to £60 a month and looked like increasing. This was 10 years ago. I could not afford that, and asked it anyone would like to take over and someone did. I would assume that this is the price that Mark is funding for us all. His return is our continued comments on the internet about his course, and the fact that many of the big names on YouTube mention him as their Tutor. Those of us who have done, and are still using, his course, benefit. In comparison to other courses, I can't believe how cheap it is, and the value is exceptional. It is the structure that gives the value. Long may Mark reign. Ross  
    • Hi all, total newbie to watchmaking and I've had a bit of a mishap. Just completing level 2 and was doing ok, but I was just on the last part of the reassembly of my ST3620 when the balance end stone shot across the room, just as I was trying to see if I had put the correct amount of oil between it and the balance end, aarrrgh! Been on my hands and knees combing the carpet for 20mins looking for it but to no avail. Does anybody know where I can get a replacement from and what to look for please?? Thanks.
    • Get someone local to tig it ,very easy fix and should only take a few minutes so probably wouldn’t cost much ,or failing that get it very clean and silver solder it. Dell
    • Hi, The winding pin is not split, well that's how it was when I obtained the watch. The movement is front-loaded and here's a picture of where the case screws are fitted. The face picture is before I dismantled it. Quick update.  I've always had a nylon ring sitting in the parts try that I wasn't sure where it went and left it to the last thing as I know it must be part of the case assembly. Anyway, looking at the picture in my last post you can see, just under the winding stem, a white-looking object, this is the nylon ring 🤭 So, I had to remove the dial again and replace the ring. Once this was all back together I placed the movement in the case and realized my initial problem maybe is not a problem as it looks like I can screw the movement back in the case and then place the hands as the dial is nearly flush with the outside of the case anyway so I'll be able to check for alignment. if all is good then just fit the crystal and bezel 🤔 I can't think of any issues with this approach but please comment if you think I've not thought of something. Another lesson learned as well. Take more pictures not just of the movement parts and location 😅
×
×
  • Create New...