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Seiko 5J22A Kentic "auto Relay" Complete Service Walkthrough

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Seiko 5J22A Complete Service


Hunting through my cupboards I found my old Seiko Kentic "Auto Relay" that I purchased sometime in the 90s, when this was the latest cutting edge Quartz Watch on the market offered by Seiko.




It's been sitting for over a decade without use, and I decided to really push myself and, with the Lord's assistance, completely strip and service this watch. 

So I tracked down the Tech Specs, and if you are thinking of embarking on servicing the 5J22 YOU WILL NEED THEM!! :)

So here they are:



I will be using the part names from this document for this walkthrough, so download and print it out for you own sanity.  The parts in this movement are incredibly small, so much so that my camera had trouble focusing on them ... so part names will help you as much as the visuals aids for this service.

Once again, I've had no one to guide me on this, so this is the way "I" stripped the movement down, the correct factory procedure may, and probably does, differ from my way ... so I give a warning here: CONTINUE AT YOUR OWN RISK.




Unscrew the back cover and store the rubber gasket away safely.




With a 2.0mm Screwdriver, pry the Location Ring out with the slots provided in the plastic ring.




Remove the Oscillating Weight with a 1.20mm Screwdriver ... and this will be the driver you use on all further screws.




To remove the Stem, you need to have the Stem push all the way home, to move the Yoke into the correct position so you can depress the lever (Location shown in picture after I removed the movement to make it easier to see the spot where you push)




The movement should now come out of the case along with the internal Bezel Ring.




Remove the Hands




Remove the 7 screws for the Circuit Block Cover A, and the Rechargeable Battery Clamp

(Sorry referred to an older pic to so you the location of screws)




Remove the Insulator for Rechargeable Battery, and then the Battery itself.




Remove Circuit Block Cover A




Remove Circuit Block Cover D




Reference picture of Circuit Block Cover D




Remove Circuit Block Cover B




Reference picture of Circuit Block Cover B




Remove Oscillating Weight Bridge




Reference picture of Oscillating Weight Bridge




Remove Circuit Block Cover C




Reference picture of Circuit Block Cover C




Remove Circuit Block

NOTE: The pin with the yellow arrow pointing to it holds onto the Circuit Block very firmly.  Be CAREFULLY and GENTLE, as the Circuit Block can be easily damaged.




This is the angle of attack that I recommend. Coming in on an angle just in front of the Crystal Unit, and gently push upwards ... and I mean GENTLY.  Patience wins the day!




Remove the Intermediate Wheel for the Generating Rotor




Remove the Generating Coil Block (grasp with tweezers where indicated with yellow arrow)




Remove the Second Coil Block (grasp with tweezers where indicated with yellow arrow)




Remove the Hour and Minute Coil Block (grasp with tweezers where indicated with yellow arrow)




Remove the Train Wheel Bridge




Remove the Second Wheel and Pinion, the Third and Fourth Wheel




Remove the Intermediate Second Wheel




TIP: Next is this first of three sets of Stators and Rotors that make up this Quartz Movement.

Be sure to place all the Stators and Rotors into a piece of Rodico for safe keeping.

As shown below:





Remove the Second Stator and Second Rotor




Remove the Minute Wheel and Pinion, Intermediate Minute Wheel, and Setting Wheel




Remove the Center Wheel and Pinion




Remove the Generating Stator and Generating Rotor




Remove the Setting Lever Spring




Remove the Yoke and Setting Lever

Note: Release tension on the Yoke Spring FIRST




Remove the Clutch Wheel and the First Intermediate Wheel for Calendar Corrector




Remove the Hour and Minute Stator and Hour and Minute Rotor




This side of the Main Plate is now finished ... time to flip it over and start on the Calendar Works




Remove the two screws indicated and remove the Hour Wheel Guard Spring, and the Date Dial Guard




Remove the Intermediate Date Driving Wheel




Remove the Intermediate Hour Wheel, and Hour Wheel




Remove the Date Dial




Remove the Day-Date Corrector Wheel, Second Intermediate Wheel for Calendar Corrector, Date Driving Wheel and Spring

Note the position of tension of the Date Driving Wheel Spring (bottom of page 9 in the Tech Specs)




Remove the Circuit Block Spacer




... and the disassembly is complete!




I started work on this rather late at night and took my time and studied each part before removing, making sure to document everything carefully.  So I'll clean the parts and begin reassembly fresh tomorrow.  I can see this one is really going to push my abilities, and I'm looking forward to tackling it and uploading the reassembly steps.

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Ok, back to work ...




I went through all the parts with a small compass to check if they were magnetized, as you don't want to put any parts that are magnetized into your cleaning machine.

Simply move the parts near to the East or West of the compass and see if the North or South moves to point to your part ... if it does you'll need to clean it by hand.


DO NOT WASH THE BATTERY, BATTERY INSULATOR, COIL BLOCK, CIRCUIT BLOCK ... I hope this is  obvious, but better to add the warning than not. 

Rule of thumb, if in doubt, leave it out!




After going through all the parts here is what I had left.




All other parts, including the Plastic Parts, Stators and Rotors will be cleaned with a fresh piece of Rodico.




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Place the Circuit Block Spacer onto the Main Plate




Clean all the Stators and Rotors before you re-assembly them ... yes they are that small!!




Fit the Hour and Minute Stator, and Hour and Minute Rotor




Fit the Clutch Wheel and the First Intermediate Wheel for Calendar Corrector




Fit the Stem




Replace the Train Wheel Setting Lever, Yoke, Setting Lever, and Setting Lever Spring




Fit the Generating Stator and Generating Rotor, and also the Second Stator and Second Rotor




Next is the Train and Motion Work, it is by far the hardest part of the assembly.  It is all housed under one plastic bridge, so to make it easier here is a location chart.




First the Motion Work - Setting Wheel, Intermediate Minute Wheel, Minute Wheel and Pinion




Slide the Center Wheel and Pinion in the affix the Spacer




Then add the Train - Third Wheel and Pinion, Intermediate Second Wheel, Fourth Wheel and Pinion, Second Wheel and Pinion




Place the Train Bridge on and locate all the gears into their jewel holes.




Next steps are easy, but be careful and gentle

Fit the Coil Blocks - Generating Coil Block, Second Coil Block, Hour and Minute Coil Block

Then CAREFULLY fit the Circuit Block




Place the Oscillating Weight Bridge; but do not screw down.

Then fit the Circuit Block Cover B, and only fasten screws indicated by yellow arrows.




Place Circuit Block Cover D but do not fasten




Continue and fit Circuit Block Cover C, this one you can screw down ... sorry forgot to take a photo, but it's the only cover left


Now place the Circuit Block Cover A Cover on and fasten down all the screws

Remember to leave the Battery Screw out ... as shown in the picture below




Flip the movement over and fit the Hour Wheel, then the Intermediate Hour Wheel

NOTE: I pictured the Intermediate Hour Wheel upside down ... sorry about that.




Fit the Intermediate date Driving Wheel




Replace the Date Driving Wheel, and the Date Driving Wheel Spring (Note spring location)

Replace the Day-Date Corrector Wheel (See fitting instructions on Page 9 of Tech Specs)

Replace the Second Intermediate Wheel for Calendar Corrector




Place the Date Dial Guard on, fit the Hour Wheel Guard Spring, and fasten




Install the Battery, and then fit the Oscillating Weight




Fit the Dial and Hands




Case the movement back up ... and you're done!






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I see, thank you Lawson that makes sense. Therefore in a mechanical watch it should be demagnetized first before cleaning/servicing just for the same reasons! Excellent!

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Lawson,  for a beginner you have done remarkably well,  another very interesting write-up.  With the very high cost of labour it probably would not be viable taking a Seiko kinetic to a repair shop as the cost would probably outweigh the value of the watch,  this is another advantage of being able to repair it yourself.  

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With the very high cost of labour it probably would not be viable taking a Seiko kinetic to a repair shop as the cost would probably outweigh the value of the watch,  this is another advantage of being able to repair it yourself.  


I have to agree with you there Autowind, assembly of the train gears inside that plastic "gearbox" was very challenging and time consuming: with nine pivot points to line up with the jewels.  It's interesting to see in Mark's Video, were he replaced that Generator Rotor in an updated Kinetic model, the Generator Rotor is now accessible without opening the gear train ... this is a HUGE advantage and improvement in design.  So the newer Kinetics would be worth repairing; but as for a similar job on the 5J22, you'd be looking at a complete strip and considerable dollars in labour to replace the same part.  It would be cheaper to buy a replacement movement for it, then to service, which is a real shame.

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  • 1 year later...
  • 2 years later...
9 hours ago, coralnut said:

5J22A.pdf seems to be corrupted -- when I download it I get a zero-byte file.  Can anyone check on the integrity of the attachment?  thanks.

We can't fix that. Search the internet to download from another place.

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  • 11 months later...

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