Jump to content

Seiko 5J22A Kentic "auto Relay" Complete Service Walkthrough


Recommended Posts

Seiko 5J22A Complete Service

 

Hunting through my cupboards I found my old Seiko Kentic "Auto Relay" that I purchased sometime in the 90s, when this was the latest cutting edge Quartz Watch on the market offered by Seiko.

 

post-246-0-79144000-1407244939_thumb.jpg

 

It's been sitting for over a decade without use, and I decided to really push myself and, with the Lord's assistance, completely strip and service this watch. 

So I tracked down the Tech Specs, and if you are thinking of embarking on servicing the 5J22 YOU WILL NEED THEM!! :)

So here they are:

5J22A.pdf

 

I will be using the part names from this document for this walkthrough, so download and print it out for you own sanity.  The parts in this movement are incredibly small, so much so that my camera had trouble focusing on them ... so part names will help you as much as the visuals aids for this service.

Once again, I've had no one to guide me on this, so this is the way "I" stripped the movement down, the correct factory procedure may, and probably does, differ from my way ... so I give a warning here: CONTINUE AT YOUR OWN RISK.

 

Disassembly

 

Unscrew the back cover and store the rubber gasket away safely.

 

post-246-0-82696400-1407244942_thumb.jpg

 

With a 2.0mm Screwdriver, pry the Location Ring out with the slots provided in the plastic ring.

 

post-246-0-66264600-1407244945_thumb.jpg

 

Remove the Oscillating Weight with a 1.20mm Screwdriver ... and this will be the driver you use on all further screws.

 

post-246-0-38654600-1407245954_thumb.jpg

 

To remove the Stem, you need to have the Stem push all the way home, to move the Yoke into the correct position so you can depress the lever (Location shown in picture after I removed the movement to make it easier to see the spot where you push)

 

post-246-0-89386800-1407244948_thumb.jpg

 

The movement should now come out of the case along with the internal Bezel Ring.

 

post-246-0-67610100-1407244951_thumb.jpg

 

Remove the Hands

 

post-246-0-11751400-1407244954_thumb.jpg

 

Remove the 7 screws for the Circuit Block Cover A, and the Rechargeable Battery Clamp

(Sorry referred to an older pic to so you the location of screws)

 

post-246-0-26148500-1407244958_thumb.jpg

 

Remove the Insulator for Rechargeable Battery, and then the Battery itself.

 

post-246-0-99435300-1407244960_thumb.jpg

 

Remove Circuit Block Cover A

 

post-246-0-66521000-1407244963_thumb.jpg

 

Remove Circuit Block Cover D

 

post-246-0-00671800-1407244967_thumb.jpg

 

Reference picture of Circuit Block Cover D

 

post-246-0-06045700-1407245221_thumb.jpg

 

Remove Circuit Block Cover B

 

post-246-0-54105000-1407245224_thumb.jpg

 

Reference picture of Circuit Block Cover B

 

post-246-0-08397800-1407245227_thumb.jpg

 

Remove Oscillating Weight Bridge

 

post-246-0-30484200-1407245230_thumb.jpg

 

Reference picture of Oscillating Weight Bridge

 

post-246-0-76577300-1407245232_thumb.jpg

 

Remove Circuit Block Cover C

 

post-246-0-90721200-1407245236_thumb.jpg

 

Reference picture of Circuit Block Cover C

 

post-246-0-37633300-1407245239_thumb.jpg

 

Remove Circuit Block

NOTE: The pin with the yellow arrow pointing to it holds onto the Circuit Block very firmly.  Be CAREFULLY and GENTLE, as the Circuit Block can be easily damaged.

 

post-246-0-13734100-1407245242_thumb.jpg

 

This is the angle of attack that I recommend. Coming in on an angle just in front of the Crystal Unit, and gently push upwards ... and I mean GENTLY.  Patience wins the day!

 

post-246-0-52513600-1407245245_thumb.jpg

 

Remove the Intermediate Wheel for the Generating Rotor

 

post-246-0-12816500-1407247112_thumb.jpg

 

Remove the Generating Coil Block (grasp with tweezers where indicated with yellow arrow)

 

post-246-0-47060000-1407247115_thumb.jpg

 

Remove the Second Coil Block (grasp with tweezers where indicated with yellow arrow)

 

post-246-0-09602000-1407247118_thumb.jpg

 

Remove the Hour and Minute Coil Block (grasp with tweezers where indicated with yellow arrow)

 

post-246-0-73326800-1407247120_thumb.jpg

 

Remove the Train Wheel Bridge

 

post-246-0-23237800-1407247123_thumb.jpg

 

Remove the Second Wheel and Pinion, the Third and Fourth Wheel

 

post-246-0-60318800-1407247126_thumb.jpg

 

Remove the Intermediate Second Wheel

 

post-246-0-23795400-1407247136_thumb.jpg

 

TIP: Next is this first of three sets of Stators and Rotors that make up this Quartz Movement.

Be sure to place all the Stators and Rotors into a piece of Rodico for safe keeping.

As shown below:

THESE PARTS ARE MAGNETIC AND WILL ATTRACT PARTICLES, SO DO NOT PUT INTO THE BASKET FOR CLEANING

 

post-246-0-41233400-1407248689_thumb.jpg

 

Remove the Second Stator and Second Rotor

 

post-246-0-44103100-1407248654_thumb.jpg

 

Remove the Minute Wheel and Pinion, Intermediate Minute Wheel, and Setting Wheel

 

post-246-0-99403300-1407248657_thumb.jpg

 

Remove the Center Wheel and Pinion

 

post-246-0-40490400-1407248661_thumb.jpg

 

Remove the Generating Stator and Generating Rotor

 

post-246-0-07651900-1407249169_thumb.jpg

 

Remove the Setting Lever Spring

 

post-246-0-37245600-1407248673_thumb.jpg

 

Remove the Yoke and Setting Lever

Note: Release tension on the Yoke Spring FIRST

 

post-246-0-34923300-1407248676_thumb.jpg

 

Remove the Clutch Wheel and the First Intermediate Wheel for Calendar Corrector

 

post-246-0-05753600-1407248680_thumb.jpg

 

Remove the Hour and Minute Stator and Hour and Minute Rotor

 

post-246-0-59750900-1407248683_thumb.jpg

 

This side of the Main Plate is now finished ... time to flip it over and start on the Calendar Works

 

post-246-0-55734700-1407248686_thumb.jpg

 

Remove the two screws indicated and remove the Hour Wheel Guard Spring, and the Date Dial Guard

 

post-246-0-89597500-1407250498_thumb.jpg

 

Remove the Intermediate Date Driving Wheel

 

post-246-0-97674100-1407250501_thumb.jpg

 

Remove the Intermediate Hour Wheel, and Hour Wheel

 

post-246-0-05826500-1407250505_thumb.jpg

 

Remove the Date Dial

 

post-246-0-03678300-1407250508_thumb.jpg

 

Remove the Day-Date Corrector Wheel, Second Intermediate Wheel for Calendar Corrector, Date Driving Wheel and Spring

Note the position of tension of the Date Driving Wheel Spring (bottom of page 9 in the Tech Specs)

 

post-246-0-21175200-1407250511_thumb.jpg

 

Remove the Circuit Block Spacer

 

post-246-0-97867400-1407250513_thumb.jpg

 

... and the disassembly is complete!

 

post-246-0-17258100-1407250517_thumb.jpg

 

I started work on this rather late at night and took my time and studied each part before removing, making sure to document everything carefully.  So I'll clean the parts and begin reassembly fresh tomorrow.  I can see this one is really going to push my abilities, and I'm looking forward to tackling it and uploading the reassembly steps.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, back to work ...

 

Cleaning

 

I went through all the parts with a small compass to check if they were magnetized, as you don't want to put any parts that are magnetized into your cleaning machine.

Simply move the parts near to the East or West of the compass and see if the North or South moves to point to your part ... if it does you'll need to clean it by hand.

 

DO NOT WASH THE BATTERY, BATTERY INSULATOR, COIL BLOCK, CIRCUIT BLOCK ... I hope this is  obvious, but better to add the warning than not. 

Rule of thumb, if in doubt, leave it out!

 

post-246-0-18045100-1407290212_thumb.jpg

 

After going through all the parts here is what I had left.

 

post-246-0-75030100-1407290243_thumb.jpg

 

All other parts, including the Plastic Parts, Stators and Rotors will be cleaned with a fresh piece of Rodico.

 

post-246-0-14283800-1407290230_thumb.jpg

post-246-0-89868300-1407290226_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Assembly

 

Place the Circuit Block Spacer onto the Main Plate

 

post-246-0-27284900-1407351513_thumb.jpg

 

Clean all the Stators and Rotors before you re-assembly them ... yes they are that small!!

 

post-246-0-12484100-1407351515_thumb.jpg

 

Fit the Hour and Minute Stator, and Hour and Minute Rotor

 

post-246-0-94266500-1407351517_thumb.jpg

 

Fit the Clutch Wheel and the First Intermediate Wheel for Calendar Corrector

 

post-246-0-77400200-1407351873_thumb.jpg

 

Fit the Stem

 

post-246-0-84377000-1407351530_thumb.jpg

 

Replace the Train Wheel Setting Lever, Yoke, Setting Lever, and Setting Lever Spring

 

post-246-0-28756400-1407351534_thumb.jpg

 

Fit the Generating Stator and Generating Rotor, and also the Second Stator and Second Rotor

 

post-246-0-68434500-1407351537_thumb.jpg

 

Next is the Train and Motion Work, it is by far the hardest part of the assembly.  It is all housed under one plastic bridge, so to make it easier here is a location chart.

 

post-246-0-99672500-1407351540_thumb.jpg

 

First the Motion Work - Setting Wheel, Intermediate Minute Wheel, Minute Wheel and Pinion

 

post-246-0-25567000-1407355869_thumb.jpg

 

Slide the Center Wheel and Pinion in the affix the Spacer

 

post-246-0-29786400-1407351548_thumb.jpg

 

Then add the Train - Third Wheel and Pinion, Intermediate Second Wheel, Fourth Wheel and Pinion, Second Wheel and Pinion

 

post-246-0-14310600-1407353031_thumb.jpg

 

Place the Train Bridge on and locate all the gears into their jewel holes.

 

post-246-0-88867900-1407353034_thumb.jpg

 

Next steps are easy, but be careful and gentle

Fit the Coil Blocks - Generating Coil Block, Second Coil Block, Hour and Minute Coil Block

Then CAREFULLY fit the Circuit Block

 

post-246-0-40953000-1407353039_thumb.jpg

 

Place the Oscillating Weight Bridge; but do not screw down.

Then fit the Circuit Block Cover B, and only fasten screws indicated by yellow arrows.

 

post-246-0-82475800-1407353866_thumb.jpg

 

Place Circuit Block Cover D but do not fasten

 

post-246-0-94577800-1407353045_thumb.jpg

 

Continue and fit Circuit Block Cover C, this one you can screw down ... sorry forgot to take a photo, but it's the only cover left

 

Now place the Circuit Block Cover A Cover on and fasten down all the screws

Remember to leave the Battery Screw out ... as shown in the picture below

 

post-246-0-82869700-1407353052_thumb.jpg

 

Flip the movement over and fit the Hour Wheel, then the Intermediate Hour Wheel

NOTE: I pictured the Intermediate Hour Wheel upside down ... sorry about that.

 

post-246-0-36110000-1407353056_thumb.jpg

 

Fit the Intermediate date Driving Wheel

 

post-246-0-51063400-1407353059_thumb.jpg

 

Replace the Date Driving Wheel, and the Date Driving Wheel Spring (Note spring location)

Replace the Day-Date Corrector Wheel (See fitting instructions on Page 9 of Tech Specs)

Replace the Second Intermediate Wheel for Calendar Corrector

 

post-246-0-85486500-1407353062_thumb.jpg

 

Place the Date Dial Guard on, fit the Hour Wheel Guard Spring, and fasten

 

post-246-0-57030100-1407355102_thumb.jpg

 

Install the Battery, and then fit the Oscillating Weight

 

post-246-0-06828600-1407355105_thumb.jpg

 

Fit the Dial and Hands

 

post-246-0-89585000-1407355109_thumb.jpg

 

Case the movement back up ... and you're done!

 

post-246-0-27940200-1407355112_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excellent work Lawson!

 

I have one question, any particular reason why the magnetized parts can't go in the cleaner? Thank you in advance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I see, thank you Lawson that makes sense. Therefore in a mechanical watch it should be demagnetized first before cleaning/servicing just for the same reasons! Excellent!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lawson,  for a beginner you have done remarkably well,  another very interesting write-up.  With the very high cost of labour it probably would not be viable taking a Seiko kinetic to a repair shop as the cost would probably outweigh the value of the watch,  this is another advantage of being able to repair it yourself.  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

With the very high cost of labour it probably would not be viable taking a Seiko kinetic to a repair shop as the cost would probably outweigh the value of the watch,  this is another advantage of being able to repair it yourself.  

 

I have to agree with you there Autowind, assembly of the train gears inside that plastic "gearbox" was very challenging and time consuming: with nine pivot points to line up with the jewels.  It's interesting to see in Mark's Video, were he replaced that Generator Rotor in an updated Kinetic model, the Generator Rotor is now accessible without opening the gear train ... this is a HUGE advantage and improvement in design.  So the newer Kinetics would be worth repairing; but as for a similar job on the 5J22, you'd be looking at a complete strip and considerable dollars in labour to replace the same part.  It would be cheaper to buy a replacement movement for it, then to service, which is a real shame.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
  • 2 years later...
9 hours ago, coralnut said:

5J22A.pdf seems to be corrupted -- when I download it I get a zero-byte file.  Can anyone check on the integrity of the attachment?  thanks.

We can't fix that. Search the internet to download from another place.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...
 Share



  • Similar Content

    • By CharDav
      Hi All
      Any ideas how I can improve the look of this calendar ring?
      The staining seems to have got underneath the lacquer.  I've not tried anything yet as I'm a little hesitant at using any liquid on it for fear of damaging the lacquer further.  i'm still learning...
      Many thanks
       

    • By richiesgr
      Hi
      I've tried to service a tiny Seiko 2601 Automatic movement very small for me (18 mm)
      So I finished  yesterday all was ok I've rewinded and I was happy because the balance started I've not checked amplitude or precision (for me just ticking it's already something)
      Today I check and the watch have stopped and do not restart even when I rewind manually. 
      Now when I put the main spring back in the barrel I've broken the end part at the opposite side of the pinion it was like a V because I don't have a main  spring rewinder so I make it manually (Shame on me).
      So I suspect that the main spring is not clamped in the barrel and it's just spinning inside without giving any power to the movement.
      The question is what method can I use to check my assumption. Not forget It's an automatic movement.
      Thanks  
    • By RNS
      Good day all,
      I'm a recent 30 year retiree and elected to start cleaning some of my older watches that ended up in a box wrapped in a towel.  One in particular, a gift from my grandfather, began working with a new battery but the crystal appears foggy.
      I would appreciate specific instructions for removing the stem/ crown and cleaning the crystal from an 1980 Seiko with the 6030A movement.
      Thank you in advance.
      Regards,
      Rick



    • By DanteFalcioni
      I recently purchased what I call a “Franken-watch” Seiko from a seller on eBay from India. As I’m sure many of you know by now there are hundreds of listings (see screenshot below) for cheap Seiko watches with weird dials, most likely repainted. They aren’t fully “fake” as most of them come with genuine Seiko movements. My Retro Watches has a good video where he looks at a watch he bought from a dealer similar to this if you’re curious, see link below.
      https://youtu.be/G_m4b3OBEMI
      Anyways I thought one of these cheap weird watches would be a fun one to play around with as my first project, and I paid $20CAD for mine which I thought to be good especially if the movement inside was genuine Seiko. First problem I noticed was the bracelet (which was cheap and terrible) was held in by shoulder-less spring bars which would be fine if the lugs had holes but they do not so I had to saw the bracelet off so I could put another one on (see wreckage below). There’s more but I won’t bore you too much..
      MY MAIN PROBLEM:
      The watch came with a Seiko 6349A (23J) movement which is a variation of the Seiko 6309 (17J) movement. The movement was held into the case only by the crown (see pictures below) and didn’t have a movement ring. As I understand this is bad because the movement isn’t securely held in the case by anything. I’ve tried to find one on eBay but I’ve had no luck, and I can’t find anywhere that has the ring size so I can’t try and find an aftermarket one. 
       
      Does anyone know where I can get one of these movement holder rings? Is it even possible to get one off of CousinsUK or Esslinger or somewhere? Do any of you have one I could buy? I am very stuck and any help is greatly appreciated!




    • By Rafael
      Hi, 
      Can someone please explain to me how on earth do i unwind this Seiko 5126A movement prior to reassembly? (Picture attached).
      No manual winding as far as I could find and the winding screw on top of the bridge is not counterturning automatically when I push back the click and basically nothing happens. I can unscrew it but this just releases the screw.
      I'll mention that I did experimented with this movement (it's my watch) and first time accidently removed the bridge with power still left. No visible harm was found and after reassembly (hopefully a proper one) everything seemed in order (except for the oiling and cleaning which I haven't yet performed and is due now).
      Thanks!
      Rafael

  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thanks all for your input.  I'm looking for how to test the coil, crystal,motor, and any other electronic parts.  
    • Same symptoms can develope due to moisture damage to electronics. This caliber might be obsolete, in case exploded view of the movement is not available and you decide to attack this yourself, take pictures at every stage of disassembly.  Good luck  
    • At the very bottom of the page in the link on the right side.  The last one.  On my screen it shows up as (RWA) A-29418-5 Rheostat, 800 ohm, 50 watt, 0.25 amp. Type R-50. 2-1/4" diameter body, 1-3/8" behind panel depth. 1/4" diameter x 1/2" long round shaft. Made by Memcor. NSN: 5905-01-013-4370. Dave said this one is close enough it should work.  One thing I noticed is the wattage.  it's 50 watt and the machines are rated at 60.  Also the amperage, seems low.  Can't remember what the machine runs at.
    • Well, I inherited my Dad's watch bench and have since bought two more. Working theory is that you cannot have too many watch benches.
    • Welcome to the forum George.
×
×
  • Create New...