Can someone please explain to me how on earth do i unwind this Seiko 5126A movement prior to reassembly? (Picture attached).
No manual winding as far as I could find and the winding screw on top of the bridge is not counterturning automatically when I push back the click and basically nothing happens. I can unscrew it but this just releases the screw.
I'll mention that I did experimented with this movement (it's my watch) and first time accidently removed the bridge with power still left. No visible harm was found and after reassembly (hopefully a proper one) everything seemed in order (except for the oiling and cleaning which I haven't yet performed and is due now).
Hello all. I recently purchased what I though was a Seiko 5 project watch. The case back says the movement is a Seiko 6309- 7200 movement. However when I removed the works (and disassembled) it was not a 6309, at least I don't think it is. FE 5612 is stamped on the movement plate and when I looked that up I found pictures of the exact movement on the Ranfft Watches site. So I guess I have two questions. First did Seiko use this movement on their watches and somebody perhaps changed case back, or did someone replace the Seiko works with the FE 5612. Second, does anyone know of a location to find a service manual for the FE 5612 movement? It does not seem to want to go back together nicely (do they ever?) and I am wondering if I have something misplaced as the only description I could find states: "Strange. Train and Hand Gear separately driven by barrel (cf. MSR T43)." I also need a stem and crown and don't have a part number.
Thanks for any and all information.
Today I show off what is probably the most accurate Seiko NH35 in existence.
Let's see what this brand spankin' new Invicta does on the timegrapher:
Oof. Ya hate ta see it. I know these numbers aren't anything to cry over for an 80 dollar automatic, but considering how these days microbrands stick this movement in watches costing hundreds more, and Seiko themselves with the equivalent 4R in watches costing even more, it's just not great. The rate itself to me is a trivial matter as nudging on the regulator is a trivial task. But what speaks to the quality of a movement in my eyes is the consistency of that rate in different positions. With 12 seconds per day difference across positions, middling amplitude, and fluctuating rate while static, albeit slight, is all just a bit "meh" to me.
Let's crack it open and see what we can do.
Hairspring seems to be pulling towards stud.
Hairspring removed from balance and mounted on cock and we can see the full extent of the malformity. That collet is a good ways off from the jewel.
Few hours of sweat later:
Much better! Regulator now runs the full length of the terminal curve without disturbance and collet is centered on jewel.
Let's check out what else I saw:
Some places are absolutely flooded.
While others just barely got any. A good thing I intervened. This thing needed to be redone top to bottom.
Stripped apart, ready to get rid of the crappy factory lube job, and get a real, proper lube job.
All put together, lubed, and few rounds of dynamic poising later:
Massive boost in amplitude, runs on rails and a measly 1 second difference across all positions. Wasn't lying when I said "probably the most accurate Seiko NH35 in existence." See for yourself.
Isn't it at the moment a bit of a waste that this souped up NH35 is being trapped inside its Invicta skin? What do you think?
Hi, so I recently got a seiko 5 snk809 and it was working fine, I then decided to regulate it as it was losing about 1 minute a day. After I regulated it it was working fine then stopped so I shook it to wind it up and then it started working. After 5 minutes it stopped again so I wound it up and it would work but then stop after a couple of minutes. I checked to see if the watch was being winded and it was, so the watch had power but just wouldn't move, I dont know why this is, the watch has power but will only run for a minute or two when I shake it, this hasn't happened before to this watch, so if anyone could help that would be great.
I have a seiko 7548-700f that I bought at a flea market for 15 dollars. Very beat up. Heavy scratches on the back near the lugs. Looks like the previous owner didn't know how to take a case back off properly. Last year during a battery change the screwdriver slipped and i hit the coil block. I managed to replace it without trouble. Starting a couple of months ago it started losing time. LOTS of time. I would take it off overnight and in the morning it would be 5 hours behind the correct time. Happens no matter what position the watch is in. I suspect that this is because the hole for the center wheel is not circular anymore. I know this means I need a service but I can not afford one. I am in highschool with no job. I have posted similar threads to this on several different sites, but no one is helpful. They tell me to get a job or to just pay to service it. What should I do? Should I learn to service it myself or is it even worth it?
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Take out the mainspring and measure the length. Go closest shorter mainspring. Shorter, you'll loose some power reserve but otherwise should be fine. There are calculations to determine how long based on the area of barrel (see NAWCC website). Input the the ID of the barrel, the OD of the mainspring arbor, and the thickness of the spring. The idea is you fill a certain amount (about 1/2?) of the barrel area with coiled spring, with room for the spring to hold tension. Altering the thickness will change the torque available; increase, you can add too much and overbank, decrease thickness and you have too low amplitude. If it's a really old watch (not yours) you have to consider this, as older spring material was less powerful for the same thickness. I've read that watches with bad amplitude (or too much) after servicing can benefit from a different thickness, not a common case. Last resort, you could go for a smaller width, the spring would fit looser in the barrel but one size lower shouldn't really make too much of a difference (so I hear), although technically you want to re-size up the thickness in that case, and there's calculations for that. The last value you'll see on the cousins website is the size of the mainspring package, which should be equal or closest smaller size to the ID of the barrel. If you look at some similar ETA models you might get an idea of approximately how long the spring is, often it's listed with ranfft. Unfortunately for you, not for 272x series, nor the 26xx series, but there is for the 25xxs, and the 277x, so you might have some starting points there if the springs are the same for the other dimensions, barrel size, complications and rate. If you can find your mainspring size measurements, there's other styles of model numbers like the bestfit catalog number (usually a number and a letter), and if you know these you can often find NOS "white-a-loy" springs on ebay or elsewhere. There's scanned documents online from Marshal Handy, Bestfit, General Resorts, Nivaflex that will list more specs on your movement and mainspring. Like here: https://watchguy.co.uk/cgi-bin/mainsprings Some conflicting numbers in multiple entries for the eta2722, but you're seeing ETA2722 numbers similar to the ranfft data, with a length less between 360 and 400mm. Also seems to suggests your GR reference is this one available from cousins: 1.25 x .135 x 400 x 11 Automatic GR3150X Which at .135 is thicker than Ranfft's listed .125 (could be an error with Ranfft?), so you'll have to resolve that discrepancy with some more data points. Best to measure what's in there and/or look it up your movement in some more of those catalogues. Good luck
Hey guys I am working on a cyma the only markings on the movement cyma R.408.00. Which is not in cousins or ranfft. So looked around and most people seem to think its a ETA 2722R,2724R or 2728R any way i need a mainspring and they dont make em any more so got measurements of ranfft 1.25x11x0.125 i put these in and it says there is none. It also wants length which i do not know. So what i am asking is what number is it best to fiddle around with so i can get a nearly correct mainspring. Its a nice watch so worth the effort. Its a auto as well. cheers gary