Jump to content

Temperamental Omega Constellation


Tomas

Recommended Posts

 Hello all!

   A vintage Omega Constellation came into my hands recently.  All appears to be well with it as it is clean and undamaged and functioning as it should, however.... it will gain several seconds a day when warm and will lose several seconds a day when in a cooler environment. What is going on here?

    Thanks.

       T.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1960's (?) vintage automatic wind Pie pan face, no date feature.   Temperature is from room temp (21C) to 36C ( in hot box). The movement has allegedly been serviced and lubed in the recent past.. so this is what i was told. Again, the movement is clean, bright and without any visible issues. Errors are  +- 90 seconds in a 24hr period.

Edited by Tomas
more info
Link to comment
Share on other sites

How odd. Oil viscosity should only effect amplitude.

So, could the balance be at fault? Is it a smooth-rimmed glycudur balance or a screw-rimmed type with temperature compensation? 

I would also make sure the tests are made with "all else being equal" and make a repeat of the tests. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is a smooth rimmed balance. I was thinking this as well...if oil viscosity( wrong oil used in the wrong place) could be the culprit. The errors are practically nill if the test temperature remains constant.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can you check the amplitude at both temperatures? Also, you might check the end shake of the balance. If it's tight at the low temperature, it could free up some at the warmer temp. Lots of other things to check, but I would start there.

Marty

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have not serviced the watch other than to attempt to adjust the rate. The story was that it had been serviced and likely cleaned by the good condition it is in.  Under the microscope, there IS evidence of oil throughout, including the pallet pivots. As per a previous suggestion, I I did check for end shake on the balance and found it to be noticeable. It would seem, given this, that there are compound problems at play to cause the rate with temperature variance. I do not yet have the means to measure amplitude.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You mean more oil is not better?

If there is oil on the pallet fork pivots, I would probably do a full service on this one and test it again. I do not oil the pallet fork pivots unless there is a cap jewel, and then only a tiny bit on the cap jewel and not the pivot jewels. And, I only put a minuscule amount of pallet stone oil on the stones by putting a small amount on the entrance stone and letting the motion of the escape wheel distribute the oil. We all have our preferences and there is more than one way to oil a movement, but some seem to work better than others.

 This one has captured my interest. Please post what you find the cause of the problem to be when you find it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

59 minutes ago, Watchfixr said:

You mean more oil is not better?

If there is oil on the pallet fork pivots, I would probably do a full service on this one and test it again. I do not oil the pallet fork pivots unless there is a cap jewel, and then only a tiny bit on the cap jewel and not the pivot jewels. And, I only put a minuscule amount of pallet stone oil on the stones by putting a small amount on the entrance stone and letting the motion of the escape wheel distribute the oil. We all have our preferences and there is more than one way to oil a movement, but some seem to work better than others.

 This one has captured my interest. Please post what you find the cause of the problem to be when you find it.

To much oil is not good no. My thought was is someone had just put some more oil in without doing a proper service before. Seen that so often i have started to forget how many i have seen. it.  Seller says it's serviced recently . Ya right :) 

Edited by rogart63
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • OK, welcome in the world of alarm clocks... I guess the 4th wheel is dished because it is from another movement. If it was not dishet, then it would not mesh with the pinion of the escape wheel, am I right? The marks of wear on the 4th wheel pinion doesn't corespond to the 3th wheel table position, at list this is what i see on the picts. Calculating the rate is easy - there is a formula - BR = T2 x T3 x T4 x T5 x 2 /(P3 x P4 x P5) where T2 - T5 are the counts of the teeth of the wheels tables, and P3 - P5 are the counts of the pinion leaves. Vibrating the balance is easy - grasp for the hairspring where it should stay in the regulator with tweasers, let the balance hang on the hairspring while the downside staff tip rests on glass surface. Then make the balance oscillate and use timer to measure the time for let say 50 oscillations, or count the oscillations for let say 30 seconds. You must do the free oscillations test to check the balance staff tips and the cone cup bearings for wear. This kind of staffs wear and need resharpening to restore the normal function of the balance.
    • Glue a nut to the barrel lid, insert a bolt, pull, disolve the glue.  Maybe someone will have a better answer. 
    • The stress is the force (on the spring) x distance. The maximum stress is at the bottom, and decreases up the arm. That's why they always break at the bottom. I used a round file, then something like 2000 grit to finish. I gave the rest of the arm a quick polish - no need for a perfect finish. Just make sure there are no 'notches' left from cutting/filing. The notches act like the perforations in your toilet paper 🤣
    • It's probably a cardinal rule for watch repair to never get distracted while at the bench. Yesterday, after finishing a tricky mainspring winding/barrel insertion (I didn't have a winder and arbor that fit very well) I mentally shifted down a gear once that hurdle was passed. There were other things going on in the room as I put the barrel and cover into the barrel closer and pressed to get that satisfying snap. But when I took it out I realized I never placed the arbor.  When opening a barrel, we are relying on the arbor to transfer a concentrically-distributed force right where it is needed at the internal center of the lid. However, when that isn't present it's difficult to apply pressure or get leverage considering the recessed position of the lid, the small holes in the barrel and the presence of the mainspring coils. It was a beat-up practice movement so I didn't take a lot of time to think it over and I pushed it out using a short right-angle dental probe placed in from the bottom, but that did leave a bit of a scratch and crease in the thin lid. I had also thought about pulling it using a course-threaded screw with a minor thread diameter smaller than the lid hole and a major diameter larger, but that may have done some damage as well.  Thinking about how this might have been handled had it been a more valuable movement, is there a method using watchmaking or other tools that should extract the lid with the least damage? 
    • 🤔 what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ? Making a small groove so the lubrication doesn't spread across the component but what if when lubing a little overspills and sits on the epilame .
×
×
  • Create New...