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Pango


Pango

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G'day

North Australian here.

Came here via Mark's excellent videos on YouTube. Watched them all at least once. Looking forward to some more done with his new camera.

Not in the business, or a serious hobby guy. But do like mechanical watches, and learning about them and horology in general. Watched a lot of videos online, and read quite a bit of stuff on various forums and sites. Got a few different books, practical and historical. Currently about a third of the way through Revolution in Time, by Landers, which I really like. Gives a solid historical picture of the whole show. 

Have a couple of basic mechanical watches. A Seagull ST-36 in a stainless case with display back, and a Molinja 3602 pocket watch. Already cased a couple of watches, trimmed a new stem, etc, but would like to get to the level where I can do a basic clean and lube on them every so often. Apart from the oils and one or two basic watch tools, I already have most of the gear needed, plus basic workshop skills with small fiddly stuff from some time at the electronics bench many years ago.

Also looking a bit longer term at putting together a nice vintage pocket watch for my father. So slowly learning some of the more practical issues, like what movements go with what dials, which brands and movements have more spare parts, etc.

Mostly I will just be lurking and reading, and maybe asking the occasional question.  B)

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    • Thank you all for the replies!  Very informative! True enough, the Gamsol took some time to evaporate and does leave a residue. So not all naphtha are created equal!  Need to find alternatives then. i was able to try Hexane recommended by Alex and it seems great.  I wonder what the cons are?
    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
    • I did not. I thought about it, but I had cleaned it in my ultrasonic, and the tech sheet shows lubricating it in place already assembled, so I figured discretion was the better part of valor. Although since I have to depth the jewels anyway, maybe I pull the pinion off to rule it out 100% as part of the problem. Do you know if there's a safe way to do it? I don't want to use a puller because it would push down on the plane of the wheel, and that seems like a Bad Idea. I thought about using a roller table remover, but I don't think I have a hole stake pointy enough to push it down.
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