Jump to content

Recommended Posts

In order to protect everybody as much as possible on this site I have now made the whole website run over the https protocol which encrypts any data you send including passwords when you log in of course.

This was a challenge as many people have previously linked to images off the website which are on a non secure website and this may throw up mixed content security warnings in your browser.

To combat this I have set the software to download a local copy of those images where possible so that they can be served with the other content securely as well.

I have run a script to try and automate this given the size of the forum now as it's not practical for me to investigate every post. 

I believe this was a success, however, if you do get security mixed content warnings and you believe it's because of the website then please post a link to that particular page here so I can investigate.

Many thanks in advance.

Mark

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • The tools mentioned here so far all probably do the same job, but they are not exactly the same. Since I do not know why the differences myself I will make a summary Seitz shown above all have a (detachable) lever, and I suppose, 4mm pushers and anvils. Some use guidance is provided (attached) Chinese doesn't have a lever. Horia has various types: - No lever, 3mm or 4mm spindle (the latter is more "standard" I think), regular of fine thread, that I can probably understand. - With lever, come in two types: free or guided spindle, not sure why to chose one over the other. - With lever and bigger spindles. Their boxed sets include both first two types, as if the serious Watchmaker couldn't do without. But for the amateur and/or budget minded professional the best deal is always a basic tool on Ebay, then add the bits as needed.   2001_J31073.pdf
    • I've found this old posting of mine and in hindsight I would say that 1.05 x .115 x 420 x 10.5 mm  - GR2534X would be better.
    • I have a lot of confidence in @Mark so that video section answers all my questions! Lube the automatic mainspring with Moebius 8200 and apply braking grease to the barrel wall. The 8200 will protect the spring and make it just slippery enough to help winding it into a mainspring winder without breaking. Obviously, the very thin layer of 8200 will not defeat the effect of the braking grease, or that is at least my interpretation of the video passage. Nevertheless, I agree with many that the best path is to replace the mainspring if one is available when servicing.
    • Just curious; did you get a chance to look at the date wheel issue again? If so, I do hope you were successful in finding the source of the problem and can share it with us!? The calendar works of the 2472 is the most sophisticated I've come across so far with its instant date change where the date wheel doesn't move one bit until it flips over in a blink. So fascinating I recorded a video of it here.
    • a new mainspring is always needed when doing a service/overhaul. new alloy mainsprings come with a dry lube so you may think they are not lubed but they are, . if you reusing a mainspring which i do not recommend then you have to clean off the old oil first if there is any and then use a piece of watch paper coated with oil then put it between tweezers and run the spring through it. I cant recommend an oil because i have never reused a spring but i can say it wont be 8200 since it is a natural oil and can spread and contaminate your barrel and movement. there really is NO reason to oil a mainspring except for maybe rust protection when dealing with very old NOS blue steel springs, or if the manufacturer specifies. I personally never oil automatic springs since most automatics i work on are modern and use white alloy springs, which again already come pre lubed. Some springs have a teflon coating which looks blue that will have to be removed prior to install to prevent emulsion from forming. Has anyone tested the power reserve in auto with dry spring vs one that has a lubed spring? Do that then decide for yourself
×
×
  • Create New...