Jump to content

Clock Oiling

Folkvisor

By Folkvisor
in All Things Clocks

 Share

Recommended Posts

oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

Cause it is that is one of the many reasons why there are so many lubricants about. You never use a thin oil on a clock train. You do use watch oil on a clock with a platform escapement and I would suggest a pocket watch train oil.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted
 

The bell doesn't ring very well because the beater dampens the bell when hitting it.

Is there a way to remedy this?

It is called a hammer that hits the bell. Bend the hammer closer to the bell; it is a trial and error until you get it right. If you have the movement out of its case, it will sound different. Cases were designed in a way so the sound of the strike or chime could sound loud and clear to the ear. Modern clock cases are not, the type of wood also plays its part.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Folkvisor Super WRT Addict

Folkvisor

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Will do. It's called a hammer for orchestral bells too.

The hour chime is a very nice full sound but that hammer seems to hit the chime then immediately drop away. 

Between the bell hammer and pendulum length adjustments It keeps me busy. A work in progress.

Thank you for your advice.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

This is a sign that the chiming wheels are not in line with the clock chiming mechanism. Is there any way you can take a few photos so I can point out what you need to do. The other thing do you know the type and make of the movement?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 months later...
Geo Distinguished Member

Geo

Posted
Posted

Welcome aboard Dave.

Thank you for the post, it's one I've meant to make for a while now.  I too have been using fully synthetic engine oil for lubricating clocks for years now and have had excellent results.  The dregs left left in the new container from one engine oil change will give you enough oil to lubricate many clocks.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • VWatchie
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By VWatchie · Posted

      Sounds great! And yes, I would use grease for the keyless as well although treating the parts with epilame would make the grease less likely to spread in the long run. Not critical but won’t hurt. My current strategy is to epilame treat all parts getting in contact with oil or grease.
    • Knebo
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Knebo · Posted

      Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.       I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
    • GuyMontag
      Movement holder made with 3D printer

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      I'm going to give this a try today/tomorrow on my UTC33/Seiko 66, thanks!
    • RichardHarris123
      Intro

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • oldhippy
      Without Our Forum

      By oldhippy · Posted

      Don't forget Mark is a hard working watch maker so he is also tied up with work. I'm sure he is keeping his eye on this forum making sure it is running along nicely. 
×
×
  • Create New...