Jump to content

My newest work space...I have to quit moving!

DJW

By DJW
in Tools & Equipment

 Share

Recommended Posts

DJW Super WRT Addict

DJW

Posted
Posted

Since I joined this forum I've moved half a dozen times. Each time I have to fit what I have to work on watches and whatever little space that's available. This time I'm in the smallest place yet (460sqft.) but have the perfect little niche in the corner for all of my watch making tools, supplies, books, Etc. All that and a South facing window B) plus, I can keep an eye on my beloved car that sits right in front of that window:biggrin:

IMG_20170609_175554024_HDR.jpg

IMG_20170609_175522593_HDR.jpg

  • Like 9
Link to comment
Share on other sites
DJW Super WRT Addict

DJW

Posted
  • Author
Posted
 

A nice light room even if its small. The L & R varimatic is the best cleaning machine I ever had.How do you manage to work on your lathe tucked in that corner with all the other stuff around.

It's tight, but not terrible. It may not look it, but there is just enough room to sit comfortably at the lathe..

Link to comment
Share on other sites
DJW Super WRT Addict

DJW

Posted
  • Author
Posted
 

By the way, what's the tool in the back left corner of the bench?

I think you're asking about my plastic Crystal lift/compressor? I don't use it that often, but it's nice to have if I have a very tight plastic Crystal to install..

Link to comment
Share on other sites
DJW Super WRT Addict

DJW

Posted
  • Author
Posted
 

 I'm very excited to pick up an L&R on Monday and graduate from my jewelry cleaner

 

The only issue I've had with this machine is the seals drying out. There is a place online where I could buy new ones, but as long as I leave it in the down position with no load on the hydraulic system I don't have a problem with fluid leaking out of the reservoir. 

After the machine completes the drying cycle the hydraulic ram lifts the head up about three or four inches so that you can remove the basket with the watch components. This is the final position that the watch cleaning machine ends it cycle. The problem with this position is that the hydraulic pressure keeps it at this elevated position. There is a spring inside the shaft that constantly pulls the head back down towards the machine itself. So therefore there is a constant positive pressure on the hydraulic system. If you have leaky seals like I do in my machine, it will slowly bleed off fluid out of the seals until the head drops all the way down back into the drying position. Because I turn it off at near the end of the drying position the hydraulic system is not under load and I don't lose any fluid. I would recommend keeping your machine in this position as well as there is no stress on the hydraulic system or seals...

When you want to clean a new watch, all you have to do is turn the machine on and the head will lift up to the final position at that point. Then you can attach your basket and press start and off you go. You just have to remember to turn off the machine during the drying cycle so it stays in that position. If you forget and it right raises up to the final point I just cycle all the way through back around to the drying cycle and then shut it off then.. obviously with the basket removed so that my freshly cleaned and dried watch Parts don't get a quick bath!:wacko:

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
DJW Super WRT Addict

DJW

Posted
  • Author
Posted
 

how is the weather in Seattle?

It's been beautiful lately! Hot as hell on Sunday..93 degrees:blink:...After the winter we had, I'll take it. We broke a record for rain- 45 inches from October 2016-April 2017...Geez!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • RichardHarris123
      Setting lever spring

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Setting lever spring

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
    • JohnR725
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      this is something I've never quite understood about the some of the Swiss companies. In 1957 Omega was using 9010 for the keyless parts with epilam. there's been a slow migration towards using heavier lubrication's but still typically oils and epilam to keep them in place. When it seems like 9504 works so much better.  
    • nevenbekriev
      Is this a 'hack' ?

      By nevenbekriev · Posted

      OK, welcome in the world of alarm clocks... I guess the 4th wheel is dished because it is from another movement. If it was not dishet, then it would not mesh with the pinion of the escape wheel, am I right? The marks of wear on the 4th wheel pinion doesn't corespond to the 3th wheel table position, at list this is what i see on the picts. Calculating the rate is easy - there is a formula - BR = T2 x T3 x T4 x T5 x 2 /(P3 x P4 x P5) where T2 - T5 are the counts of the teeth of the wheels tables, and P3 - P5 are the counts of the pinion leaves. Vibrating the balance is easy - grasp for the hairspring where it should stay in the regulator with tweasers, let the balance hang on the hairspring while the downside staff tip rests on glass surface. Then make the balance oscillate and use timer to measure the time for let say 50 oscillations, or count the oscillations for let say 30 seconds. You must do the free oscillations test to check the balance staff tips and the cone cup bearings for wear. This kind of staffs wear and need resharpening to restore the normal function of the balance.
    • RichardHarris123
      Any tips to correct a sloppy error?

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      Glue a nut to the barrel lid, insert a bolt, pull, disolve the glue.  Maybe someone will have a better answer. 
×
×
  • Create New...