Jump to content

Seiko 7T32-6L20 Macchina Sportiva

systeman

By systeman
in Your Watch Collection

 Share

Recommended Posts

systeman WRT Addict

systeman

Posted
Posted

I've been looking for one of these for a very long time. I've just got my hands on a Seiko Macchina Sportiva from the 1990's, but this one is quite rare. It's the 7T32-6L20 Black ION with its original black rubber strap.

I've given it a full service but need to realign the date ring, that's not a problem. But what is a problem is the case back.

There's video I've made to show it off a bit.

The back on these was a silicone based black finish and this had deteriorated over time. Again, not too much of a problem, I'll completely strip back the back plate to bare metal and reapply a new decal to original spec.

59353a7e61fdc_Seiko7t32-6L20-1.thumb.jpg.22fd80f3820a8f1454a82a5cf77e1dbb.jpg

 

59353a8c49787_Seiko7t32-6L20-2.jpg.da23a5e8bb1d4d0ed4c447693ebb0ca3.jpg

 

59353a97a5fc4_Seiko7t32-6L20-3.jpg.07cb572afddcb08d6907edc1984ccc25.jpg

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 months later...
systeman WRT Addict

systeman

Posted
  • Author
Posted
23 hours ago, StuartBaker104 said:

How did you do that? It looks great!

I took a photograph of a few Macchina Sportiva case backs and took measurements of the text, the logo panel and diameter of the text relative to the panel and case back.

I then edited and recreated the Logo panel in Gimp.

I recreated the circular text using the same font as a layer.

Then I created a black background layer the same overall size of the case back.

The artwork was the laser printed onto a transfer film ready for transferring to the case back.

Obviously, printers do not print white text. Therefore, I used an acid etch primer on the case back before painting it with an off white background for the text.

The transfer was then applied and baked on. A few coats of matte lacquer was then applied to seal and finish it off.

This is not one for the faint hearted, it needs a lot of patience.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites
PJA WRT Addict

PJA

Posted
Posted
13 hours ago, systeman said:

I took a photograph of a few Macchina Sportiva case backs and took measurements of the text, the logo panel and diameter of the text relative to the panel and case back.

I then edited and recreated the Logo panel in Gimp.

I recreated the circular text using the same font as a layer.

Then I created a black background layer the same overall size of the case back.

The artwork was the laser printed onto a transfer film ready for transferring to the case back.

Obviously, printers do not print white text. Therefore, I used an acid etch primer on the case back before painting it with an off white background for the text.

The transfer was then applied and baked on. A few coats of matte lacquer was then applied to seal and finish it off.

This is not one for the faint hearted, it needs a lot of patience.

Great job and very creative!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
systeman WRT Addict

systeman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I've now uploaded a video of the finished watch:

It was great fun getting involved with refurbishing the case back. After assembling and testing the functions, I did notice an improvement in the volume of the buzzer. This was probably because of baking the decal. The process must have improved the conductivity of the old adhesive.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • GuyMontag
      1972 Bulova President "E" Sea King 11ACACB movement

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Zedster
      Movement inserted from crytal side

      By Zedster · Posted

      Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀       
    • nevenbekriev
      Main spring

      By nevenbekriev · Posted

      Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
    • ManSkirtBrew
      1972 Bulova President "E" Sea King 11ACACB movement

      By ManSkirtBrew · Posted

      I did not. I thought about it, but I had cleaned it in my ultrasonic, and the tech sheet shows lubricating it in place already assembled, so I figured discretion was the better part of valor. Although since I have to depth the jewels anyway, maybe I pull the pinion off to rule it out 100% as part of the problem. Do you know if there's a safe way to do it? I don't want to use a puller because it would push down on the plane of the wheel, and that seems like a Bad Idea. I thought about using a roller table remover, but I don't think I have a hole stake pointy enough to push it down.
    • oldhippy
      Movement inserted from crytal side

      By oldhippy · Posted

      Before putting it back in the case I would fit the hands and use a pin vice on the stem to make sure the hands were in line. 
×
×
  • Create New...