Jump to content

Does Anyone (Everyone?) Make Some Of Their Own Tools?


Recommended Posts

First, here's a picture of the insides:

 

post-140-0-28381200-1407973739_thumb.jpg

 

The main component is a transformer with a 120VAC primary winding, and in this case, a centre-tapped 12.6V 3A secondary winding (which is not used). I bought it from Radio Shack when we still had those here in Canada.

 

I first removed the gold coloured outer shell from the transformer. Next, I cut out the pieces of the steel core at the bottom of the transformer between the three uprights, leaving the core in the shape of an upside-down Ш.

 

I then put back just the top half of the shell (as you can see in the photo), and epoxied the whole thing to the underside of a plastic project box lid (so with the lid on the box, the Ш is now right-side-up).

 

The secondary leads were cut short so that there's no danger of them touching one another.

 

The primary side was simply wired to a two prong electrical plug cable, with an AC-rated momentary push-button switch in one lead.

 

That's all there is to it.

 

To use it, hold the watch in one hand as far away from the device as possible. Push the button with the other hand, and bring the watch to within about half an inch of the surface of the box over the transformer, dial down. I usually keep my fingers between the watch and the box to ensure it doesn't get pulled out of my hand or get too close to the box. Wave the watch around slowly for a few seconds, and then move the watch as far away as possible before finally releasing the button.

 

A few warnings:

  • Don't press or release the button with the watch near the demagnetizer, or you will more than likely magnetize it.
  • Don't wear a ring on any fingers that you will bring close to the coil. The ring can become a very low voltage, high current, secondary winding of the transformer, wired in a short circuit around your finger.
  • And finally, don't wear a watch on the wrist of the hand you are pushing the button with, or you might magnetize that watch.
Edited by svorkoetter
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can remember my father telling me why he never wore rings at work. He was a turbine engineer and obviously working around serious electricity. He said he saw a guy lose two fingers when electricity arced through his rings. I don't know which fingers they were, hopefully he could still make a victory sign or whatever.

I am in the process of making a variable power supply for use when testing accutrons. Converting a schematic to use on a linear board - such fun. Luckily someone posted the schematic on an accutron site so here's hoping I get it right.

Really interesting post svorkoetter.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, you wouldn't lose a finger with the demagnetizer, but you could, in theory, get a nasty burn. I'm going to have to experiment with some copper rings on wooden dowels to see how hot they might actually get.

Edited by svorkoetter
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Inspired by you I have ordered some hypodermic needles. I needed fine steel tube to make a pawl/index finger adjuster for my Accutrons. At 99p for 10 with free postage I have now found a cheap supply of fine. Steel tubing.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here are a couple of photos.  The quality is not great as they were taken through the scope with my iPhone but you can make out most of it.  The first is the Index and Pawl fingers and the second shows the jewels on the index wheel.

When i was in LA I bought about half a dozen movements for spares and luckily two of them are humming so I don't think thats a bad result.  This is one of the worst and will probably just be stripped down for spares, it is has been savaged and is very dirty.

The collet tool fitted over the post and was used to bend the post slightly to raise or lower the jewel with respect to centralising it on the index wheel.  Also the tool could be used to rotate the collet to move the spring finger nearer to or further from the index wheel.

I hope that with my dremel and a diamond disk I can fashion the needle to fit over the post with a small point left on one side of the needle to locate in the gap on the collet so I can turn it.

You can of course get by with tweezers and an old oiler but it would be nice to have a more "positive" tool.

On the picture the left finger is the index and is attached to the tuning fork, simplistically that one pushes and with the correct draw keeps the watch running and the pawl finger is attached to the watch body and locates on the index wheel to stop the index wheel running back.

Cheers,

 

Vic

post-197-0-65146600-1409173576_thumb.jpg

post-197-0-08674400-1409173604_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nothing wrong with the pictures Vic, thanks for showing me. I find they are great and very illustrative. That's fine work you are doing there.

 

I, like you, also bought a few movements recently and it is taking me a long time to restore them since I can't live with a single one not working so the work is extensive: No watch left behind !? 

 

I originally thought about a sacrificial movement when I was buying them but then I ended up buying the parts they needed and so the last one is ticking away too! I feel I should start a Society for Protection of Endangered Watches but the acronim won't help much I guess! :)

 

In any case, keep up the good work!

Edited by bobm12
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Finally found the time to make my variable power supply.  Thanks go to Rich Helzer and Rob Berkavicius ( http://members.iinet.net.au/~fotoplot/accps.htm ) who were the persons to publish the circuit diagram.  Mostly this is for my Accutrons of which I have many movements waiting for repair.  The pseudo battery came with the old Bulova 700 test set I bought a while ago. The psu powered by a 9V Duracell covers the range 0 to 2 volts so may have alternative uses. Cost about £20.00 but I had fun making it and imagine my relief when it worked.

 

Here is a copy of the diagram which is freely available for private use.

 

post-197-0-00091400-1410268744_thumb.jpg

 

Here is the finished article - not pretty but very functional.  Nicked my wifes label maker from her craft room so nice pink labels to bring out my feminine side ;)

 

post-197-0-83222300-1410268875_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

I sawed off a piece of 2 x 2 to rest my chin on when I'm doing very close up work with a 10x or 18x loupe. Does that count?

 

The pegwood tool I made for removing Novodiac springs works well for removing them; I've not yet tried using it to replace them.

 

I've made a few tools for piano tuning - two kinds of jigs for hammer hanging on uprights and grands and a coil maker to put coils on a piano string before putting it on the tuning pin. It is much better than turning the pin out 3 or 4 full turns, putting the string in the becket hole and then turning the pin back in again; such an action only serves to ream the pin hole in the block and ultimately loosen the pin.

 

Hey, maybe I could use it for making balance springs and winding main springs.

 

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

speaking of pegwood - i didn't have anything i could use for the purpose that pegwood serves. one day i was walking through the local grocery store and voila! i went immediately to the sushi cooler. chopsticks! they sharpen well , they're plentiful.....and ....they're FREE! it's a good thing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Orange wood cuticle pusher sticks are about £2.00 with free postage on the bay - not as long as the peg wood we normally use but handy just the same, you get 100 so quite good value as our peg wood is orange wood as well.

Cheers,

Vic

Link to comment
Share on other sites



×
×
  • Create New...