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1st time watch repair - 1963 wind up timex


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Hello I found what I think is a 1963 Timex Windup at the flea market today for $1. I've always wanted to learn more about watches, ever since I was a kid I was drawn to them. I've never tried to work on a watch but I did study Mechanical Engineering at Georgia Tech so I have somewhat of a mechanical backbone. I really have no idea where to start and I know its very easy to destroy these watches when prying into them. So where should I start? Hoping y'all can tell me a little about the watch that I found and hopefully point into a direction to restore it. I would also be interested in books about watch repair and threads on here that could help. Thanks folks!IMG_7504.thumb.JPG.23afe3d25916a2d3f2bc70b97c33e9d3.JPG

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So where should I start?

Start with another watch. Most Timex are basically not serviceable, with riveted parts, etc. Although your does not seem to be bad as my Asian Q&D, the truly disposable mechanical watch (pictures on request).

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Could not agree more, not a good watch to get started on, they were not designed to be dismantled.

It is possible to take them apart (I have done one before, stripping everything down except the parts riveted together), but you will find it difficult to put back together. On the one I worked on (see pic) all wheels were on the same plate (with no separate bridges so all wheels have to be perfectly aligned- not ideal for a novice)

 

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a good movement to start on would be a unitas / eta 6497, or  chinese equivalent to keep cost down

 

for reading, i would suggest Decarle' s Practical watch repairing, i come back to it all the time!

 

Edited by oli
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As others have said, don't waste your time on Timex. If you want to get into watch repairing my advice would be to get hold of a pocket watch as they are much bigger and the way they come apart are more a less the same as a basic wrist watch. Learn how to take it all apart and put it all back together, it doesn't matter if it doesn't work, get to know what the parts are called, this will also give you practice on how to use your screwdrivers, tweezers and an eye glass. Don't bother with fusee pocket watches because they are very different. 

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a good movement to start on would be a unitas / eta 6497, or  chinese equivalent to keep cost down
Or a Seiko 7S26. It's quite easy, parts are abundant and cheap, and most watches based on it are nice and wearable.
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If you still want to go ahead with this Timex, here's what you can try.

1. remove the stem. If i'm not mistaken the stem is held in by a metal gate which needs to be raised before the stem can come out. You can see it better looking at it edgewise.

2. Remove the hands and dial. The dial usually has tabs which are bent to hold it in place. If you're not the first in there the dial may be glued into place as the tabs usually break.

3. Loosen the screw on the balance pivot a quarter turn.

4. Dunk the whole thing in lighter fluid. If you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner so much better.

5. Dry the watch off.The watch will usually start running once it dries off a bit. May need a shake to start it off.

6. You will see tiny holes on both side of the movement which are actually the pivots of the wheels, you can lube this with some watch oil. Timex don't really need fancy oils.

7. Eyeball the balance pivots, you need to get some oil in the pivots... once done, tighten the screw on the balance pivot so that it moves smoothly with minimal endshake.

8. Replace dial and hands and stem. IIRC the stem 'gate has to be raised to get the stem back in, unlike other watches where its usually just push in.

9. Clean the case a bit and fit everything back together.

Most of the Timex I've come across would usually run with the above ... the ones where water has entered with ensuing rust damaged are not possible to repair.

For those who look down on Timex, they still have a sentimental value. Most of the older watches I get are usually brought in by guys who were given the watches when they were young. Even if the movement is irreparable I would usually source an organ donor to get the watch working. The look on their face when they hold the watch to their ear is priceless.

Anilv

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If your livelihood depends on the watch repairs, you undertake no one in their right mind would undertake repairing Timex watches. That is why back in the 70’s and 80’s you would send them back to Timex.

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Hi! 

You've got a model 22 movement there, and #anilv's instructions are a good start. I have a lot of TImex service documentation that I am sharing here -

Timex Documents

You should be able to find a lot relevant to your watch.

Edited by dadistic
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The Timex is a good watch to start with if you want to understand the fundamentals of how a mechanical watch works but I will caution that putting that watch movement back together will be a chore.  I consider Timex watches the "Everest" of watch repair; I haven't yet successfully repaired one.

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  • 9 months later...

Wow ..I am glad I found this.. was just about to tear one of these apart . It was my uncles and it still works although it is about 2 minutes slow. It has sentimental value and I would not want to Lying around as a pile of junk. I think I'll just keep it as it is. I already polished the Crystal and the case and It looks pretty good...

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    • Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.       I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
    • I'm going to give this a try today/tomorrow on my UTC33/Seiko 66, thanks!
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • Don't forget Mark is a hard working watch maker so he is also tied up with work. I'm sure he is keeping his eye on this forum making sure it is running along nicely. 
    • Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement.    
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