I am working on a vtg. Citizen cal.7520 automatic movement.
I have put the watch on the timegrapher
The graph looks OK but the beat error shows 9.9ms. I presumed that beat error should be around 1.0~2.0 given the shape of the graph.
Is the beat error actually bad or the timegrapher is wrong??
Padd here from the UK.
It all started with a desire to fix a Submariner replica I bought off a lucky lucky man in Pisa, Italy while on a European tour.
Next thing I know I'm investigating Submariner replicas and building my own, signed by me, using a Seagull ST2130 movement, adventure watch.
Now I'm hooked, I took inspiration from Marks videos, now I'm happily starting to work on parts of the movement, and have recovered one or two movements where the stem came out, but wouldn't stay back in. I have built a few watches for friends and relations, but now I need to be able to service them when they come back to me.
I also have a couple of movements that run really badly, so I will be practising on those over the winter weekends. Full repair/servicing kit IS my Christmas present.
I really want to get one of those ST2130's, serviced and tweaked by me, doing a -------------------------- on my timegrapher. not a -.'-.'''--,'.'.' (and worse) that they do at the moment.
I wont start to list my watch collection, but it runs from a Casio digital to a Rolex pocket watch with Seikos, Citizens, Omegas and home builds in the mix.
Must do Mark's course, but I'm afraid I may have already learned 60+% of it already.
Hi all, I have other watch/pocketwatch mainspring winders like KD and Moseley but i bought this neat little set out of curiosity really. I understand how it goes together but, how do you use it?
I'm trying to get my old grandfathers Automatic Seiko up running and I took the movement out of the case today. I figure I will replace the mainspring and I was not able to salvage the o-ring gasket on the stem nor the case back gasket. I don't know if they're supposed to be flat and quite hard. Anyway, the just crumbled apart when I tried to remove them and the case back one had to be removed to get the movement out. My question now is where, or rather how, do I source these parts. I've been searching cousins and they have a lot of parts and I also found an old article in this forum that pointed me to Jules Borel site but it was out of stock there.
Is there some sort of generic gaskets I may use ? What measurements should I use when searching for new ones ? Where may they be found ?
It would seem that one of the trickier obstacles with this hobby is sourcing new parts, especially when one can only afford to tinker with OLD movements.
On the back it says Seiko 7005-7011 but it sure looks a lot like 7005-7010 I've seen around here.
All my life I've been interested in watches of all kinds. I started watching videos about watch repairing on YouTube and ended up taking Mark's online course. Before I new it I had bought some tweezers and two China versions of the UNITAS 6497 to tinker with. Great Fun !
Hope I'll see you around
I don't think that microscopic difference matter that much, and not even that they are so pronounced when going from a watch brand to another as someone suggested. While it's a fact that generally speaking Swiss screw slots are narrow than Japanese for a same width, I suppose the parallel drivers makers have calibrated well the blade thickness to be the best average size.
For me the metric isn't just that. A very important aspect is the ability to grip well for the initial turn on long screw that has just put on its place, always tilted. on one side by some amount.
Since I don't think there are available videos about that I will make a comparison one as soon I have the opportunity, and update this thread.