Jump to content

Removing Balance


Recommended Posts

N00b question but I've seen two recommended methods to remove the balance assembly from the movement, and now I'm confused which is the best / more correct ?

1. is to lift the balance cock and very gently remove it by just holding the cock and making sure as to not snag the balance wheel. so that the wheel hangs on the hair spring, as per Mark's videos. Also when using this method how does one go about flipping it over to lay it in the parts tray, other than very carefully ..

2. is to pick it up by holding the balance cock and wheel together in your tweezers, as per the picture attached (sorry for the blurry mobile phone pic).

So which is the most correct way and more importantly why? Which way should a n00b like myself be using. 

IMG_20170422_213003.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use the second method. As i am elderly i tend to shake a little making the first method difficult.  But that can be risky and i think u can bend the pivot if you hold to tight? On balances that has a jewel that you can remove . I do that and put it back after i have put the balance back on the movement? 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use both methods. I've once tangled a hairspring using method one (balance suddenly sprung upwards due to sticky lower jewel). I've once bent a lower balance pivot using method 2 since the lower pivot was stuck again, and the balance always lifts at an angle when you use this method.

 

I usually go for method 1, and use method 2 if the balance is sticky. If it is too sticky, then I pick up an oiler in my other hand and use it to persuade the balance wheel to lift.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, madchops67 said:

I use the first method to avoid damage to the hairspring, just in case it's gets nicked by being compressed against the balance wheel and balance cock.

That can't happen, because the shape of the upper pivot into the balance cock hole the makes so that there is always a certain space between the wheel and balance body.

On the other hand, when you keep the wheel dangling by the hairspring, the latter can get distorted by catching int something, or by the wheel weight itself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That can't happen, because the shape of the upper pivot into the balance cock hole the makes so that there is always a certain space between the wheel and balance body.
On the other hand, when you keep the wheel dangling by the hairspring, the latter can get distorted by catching int something, or by the wheel weight itself.

It happened to me once before, maybe because I gripped to hard with the tweezers and the outer part of the spring end up distorted. It may have been pinched or rubbed against the balance cock. That is jus my experience, so that's why I use the first method.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I prefer option 1 but use option 2 if the whim takes me.
I like to lift the cocktail and rotate so it sits on the movement leaving the upper staff pivot loose. Then lift the lower pivot out its jewel. Then lift the assembly. That way you'll not end up with a jumbled mess if sticking pivots in the jewel hole.
On old pocket watches there is a third option.
3. Loosen the stud retaining screw. Push the stud down away from the balance cock. Remove the balance cock. Then remove balance wheel and staff. It can then be reassembled on the worktop.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd have to say it depends a bit on the movement.  In some movements the center wheel is very large and will cover a good portion of the balance making option 2 difficult.  Other times, if the movement hasn't been serviced in quite a while or you know the balance pivots may stick, option 1 goes out the door. 

I generally use the first option but with a caveat; Once the balance cock is loosed I'll lift it and shift it slightly to release the top pivot from the jewel, then lift the balance wheel up out of the bottom pivot before removing the entire assembly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That can't happen, because the shape of the upper pivot into the balance cock hole the makes so that there is always a certain space between the wheel and balance body.
On the other hand, when you keep the wheel dangling by the hairspring, the latter can get distorted by catching int something, or by the wheel weight itself.

If you use method one you don't need to leave the hairspring dangling. I use a balance stand and a bit of rodico and it could sit on its standard for years if necessary. Have attached some pictures for demo. Just remember when taking the balance assembly of the stand to hold the wheel gently incase lower pivot sticks in the rodico. Then release from the rodico.
I think people prefer method 2 to avoid having to flip the wheel over when working on the balance.e1e993a4a39694fe7cc590f463b3bcd3.jpg3082f14a7ea479edbf4eec8d2c605dac.jpgc13f1cabc442e023536908a694af60d7.jpg

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great question ... and answers!

I've always gone for option 2 as it has served me well but I might start using option 1 for some of the reasons given.

And digginstony I am so getting (or making) myself a balance stand! :)

Edited by WatchMaker
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/24/2017 at 5:31 PM, digginstony said:

I prefer option 1 but use option 2 if the whim takes me.
I like to lift the cocktail and rotate so it sits on the movement leaving the upper staff pivot loose. Then lift the lower pivot out its jewel. Then lift the assembly. That way you'll not end up with a jumbled mess if sticking pivots in the jewel hole.
On old pocket watches there is a third option.
3. Loosen the stud retaining screw. Push the stud down away from the balance cock. Remove the balance cock. Then remove balance wheel and staff. It can then be reassembled on the worktop.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 

I use this method so I can sneak up on it, save for the third method there that I haven't thought of, pretty slick!

BTW I just got one of those balance stands/tacks and it's extremely useful.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What has that to do with this? [emoji4] Better to let it swing? 

Yep it's more of a swing than a vertical lift, to move the balance bridge from its fixing stud or studs Then ease the lower pivot from its jewel but it still necessitates a slight lifting motion ??

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • That's a good idea - shrinking down the nut and wrench size from the old casebook trick!
    • I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
×
×
  • Create New...