Jump to content

Replace a complete balance wheel and bridge for ETA 2804-2


Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I broke the pivot of balance wheel on ETA 2804-2.

I bought a generic complete balance wheel with bridge for ETA 2824-2 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/262234041099?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) and tried to install it without any difficulty. There is only a difference between the new and old one is the shock assemblies (Incabloc vs Novodiac). In the photo below, the new one is the yeallow on the right hand side.

IMG_1540.thumb.JPG.432f53ea73f6cbf86f776996c6068e68.JPG

My question are:

- Is the complete balance wheel and bridge replaceable between those movements?

- If Yes, after installed, the balance wheel has swung a little bit then stop. What is the reason? How to fix it?

Thank you

 

Edited by hokavan
Link to comment
Share on other sites

try using only the balance complete (balance wheel and Hairspring) - meaning use the old cock and the new balance complete.

It looks to me like you don't have enough end-shakeand a cause would be the different shocks (Incabloc and Novodiac)

To take it off:

 

Edited by matabog
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It looks like the balance roller jewel is not engaged with the pallet folk correctly. It might be a mile out of beat so it will be worth removing the pallet folk & bridge and rotate the balance & check that the roller jewel settles in the middle of the banking pins.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Doesn't look like you got the balance in the right position? Make sure that you have the roller jewels inside the pallet fork.  Which i don't you have right. Maybe that is why you broke the last pivot. 

Yes you are right. The roller was not in right position.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

try using only the balance complete (balance wheel and Hairspring) - meaning use the old cock and the new balance complete.
It looks to me like you don't have enough end-shakeand a cause would be the different shocks (Incabloc and Novodiac)
To take it off:
 

I don't have tools to remove the balance and install it on the old bridge. It could be the end- shake problems because if I pressed down the end of bridge it would run faster.
I was looking for complete balance and bridge for ETA 2804 but was unable to find it. Could you please suggest any other way to fix it?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

The balance and bridge on the left is for a 2824-1 and the one one the right is a 2824-2 balance.

These are NOT compatible because they run at different rates.

The 2824-1 runs at 21600 both and the 2824-2 runs at 28800 bph so you CANNOT interchange them.

Even if it were possible the timekeeping would be hours per day out 

Get the correct balance.

Regards

James

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, Horologist said:

Get the correct balance.

Correct, but you're replying to an almost three year old topic, one would suppose the issue has been sorted out by now.

Also, FYI we have a dedicated section of the forum where is considered polite for new members to introduce themselves.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
On 2/28/2020 at 1:24 PM, jdm said:

Correct, but you're replying to an almost three year old topic, one would suppose the issue has been sorted out by now.

Does it really matter? I found the provided info extremely interesting. @Horologist wrote his first and only post the same day he joined, six month ago, and we haven't seen him/her here since. I wonder why. Any idea?

Edited by VWatchie
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • It's probably a cardinal rule for watch repair to never get distracted while at the bench. Yesterday, after finishing a tricky mainspring winding/barrel insertion (I didn't have a winder and arbor that fit very well) I mentally shifted down a gear once that hurdle was passed. There were other things going on in the room as I put the barrel and cover into the barrel closer and pressed to get that satisfying snap. But when I took it out I realized I never placed the arbor.  When opening a barrel, we are relying on the arbor to transfer a concentrically-distributed force right where it is needed at the internal center of the lid. However, when that isn't present it's difficult to apply pressure or get leverage considering the recessed position of the lid, the small holes in the barrel and the presence of the mainspring coils. It was a beat-up practice movement so I didn't take a lot of time to think it over and I pushed it out using a short right-angle dental probe placed in from the bottom, but that did leave a bit of a scratch and crease in the thin lid. I had also thought about pulling it using a course-threaded screw with a minor thread diameter smaller than the lid hole and a major diameter larger, but that may have done some damage as well.  Thinking about how this might have been handled had it been a more valuable movement, is there a method using watchmaking or other tools that should extract the lid with the least damage? 
    • 🤔 what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ? Making a small groove so the lubrication doesn't spread across the component but what if when lubing a little overspills and sits on the epilame .
    • Why just the bottom mike ? Is it worth polishing the whole arm ?
    • The one thing I took time over was to round and polish the curves at the bottom of the jumper arm. The slightest mark (left over from cutting of filing) acts as a stress raiser, just where you don't need it. 
    • I printed the base and it is a bit too large to fit on the base of the hand setter. The ring bumps into the column so it is unable to full seat on the central ring. I'm going to try removing some of the materal and see if I can't get it to go down.
×
×
  • Create New...