Jump to content

Tweezers advice?


Recommended Posts

I texture the inside of my tweezers with emery paper, 500 grit? i forget exactly, on the finer side but c.o.a.r.s.e enough that you can still feel the grit with your fingers. Just place the paper inbetween, close the tweezers and pull, fold it to do both sides at once. 

Edited by Ishima
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Carbon steel tweezers can be glass-hard. My stainless Dumonts are softer and still get magnetised slightly anyway. I also have their "Dumostar" versions which are very hard, to be fair. 
As already mentioned, dressing them is very important, including giving the insides a slightly co**BLEEP** finish to provide grip. 

I suspect your Dumostar may have a higher nickle content to achieve their hardness. As previously mentioned, EN21 steel retains flexibility or to be more precise elasticity but derives strength through its nickle content

Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Love my Dumont carbon No.1s but the **BLEEP** things are sooo magnetised. I have half the **BLEEP** watch hanging off of them. I really must get a demagnetizer....:angry: My stainless Supras are nice though...nice and light. Really must get a set of brass ones though. Have a set of Dumont No, 5 in stainless but have not used them yet so can't comment on them.

Why in the heck can't we say c.o.u.r.s.e.??? or b.l.o.o.d.y....

Ron

Edited by 94marconi
spelling
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@RyMoeller Since electronics are also in my hobby spectrum, I knew these tweezers are anti-static & anti-magnetic Stainless Steel. They don't come with a watch-brand printed on them, perhaps hence the cheap price?

IMHO, they work great !

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6pcs-ESD-Anti-Static-Stainless-Steel-Pointed-Tweezers-for-Repair-Tool-/272088601890?hash=item3f59be9522

ESD-11 is, together to my brass tweezers, the workhorse.

Edited by Endeavor
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...

Three 3c seems to be very popular with a lot of people and I prefer number 2 for watch work. So tweezers I use are made by Fontax and they're called Taxal nonmagnetic. There are actually very interesting how they're made casual observance they look like normal tweezers careful observance you'll notice that the tips are made out of a different material. Normally anti-magnetic is soft these are not whatever the alloy is is almost indestructible. Then unfortunately I've seen the modern version and they changed the shape slightly I don't like them. This represents one of the problems of there's no universal standard for numbers of the tweezers various manufacturers have slightly different interpretations.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Still have not done any real work yet, but have been practicing picking up parts and dressing tweezers, etc.

 

One thing I did discover early on is that your hand size can make a difference to which tweezers work best.

 

I have large palms that just swallow up many tweezer sizes, so the longer ones work better for me, at least for general work. AA and SS, for example. For finer work like hairsprings you just have to manage with what is available.

 

I find that the SS tips can cross a bit easily compared to the more robust AA. Might just need more practice. But I did slim my AA tips down a little finer and that seems a good compromise.

 

Also slimmed the shoulders of the AA, more like the 3, so I can more easily roll the tweezers in my hand.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My favourites are Dumont dumoxel #2 for most work then #5 for hairsprings.

I bought a set of Vetus tweezers from Cousins to get a range of shapes and sizes, but there is a reason why the Dumont ones are nearly 10x the price and I tend to just use these for odd jobs. Good tweezers feel like an extension of your hands. Cheap ones are an obstacle to learning to use them and you will regret the difference in price the first time you ping a part across the room.

I’ve also picked up some used oddments from eBay: Fontax #4, good for fine work; Fontax F, which have polished tips for handling hands; and Dumont carbon steel #7, useful to use with the #5 for hairsprings. I have also seen a lot of abused tweezers which have gone for high prices on eBay.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, StuartBaker104 said:

I bought a set of Vetus tweezers from Cousins to get a range of shapes and sizes, but there is a reason why the Dumont ones are nearly 10x the price and I tend to just use these for odd jobs. Good tweezers feel like an extension of your hands. Cheap ones are an obstacle to learning to use them and you will regret the difference in price the first time you ping a part across the room.

I use Vetus tweezers and have absolutely no problem with them. It's the person and his/her dexterity that does the job, not the tool.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, jdm said:

I use Vetus tweezers and have absolutely no problem with them. It's the person and his/her dexterity that does the job, not the tool.

Well yes - this is sadly true, but lacking the experience, I find the Dumonts much easier to work with. :)

I’m assuming you are talking about the Vetus ones that cost about £4 a set? Be interested to know what yours were like straight out of the packet?  Mine needed a lot of work to get the tips to anywhere near the finish of the Dumont ones.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, StuartBaker104 said:

I’m assuming you are talking about the Vetus ones that cost about £4 a set? Be interested to know what yours were like straight out of the packet? 

Yes, I think so. I did nothing to them, I just try to grab parts as logic and physics dictates. I don't expect the tool to make any miracle and in return for a good service I do not abuse it.

I have bought some more tweezers from a now defunct domestic maker, but haven't even tried them. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

I have a ladies, very small, (No model number on it) Sekonda wind up watch that needs some work attending to on the hairspring.

This obviously represents quite a challenge and, without really good, fine tweezers, I think there's no hope of (Hopefully) getting this watch back in use.

I use a stereo microscope and when I view the tweezers that I have, they look like a garden shovel; compared to the hairspring!

Can anyone recommend any reasonably priced tweezers and where to buy?

I know there are plenty available, but they are way too cost prohibitive.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

I also have a "fake" pair of Vetus tweezers, and after putting them through the "ringer" of completely refining the tips, they work nearly as well as my trusty "ZEE brand medical tweezers that I currently use for EVERYTHING, including installing crown tubes!

Since I don't like to rely on only one of any critical tool, I'm currently mid-search to see if other brands (Such as Stella) are good, or if I should just bite the bullet and get Dumont tweezers. Honestly, it's second (maybe) only to screwdrivers with regards to how often they are used so I guess I'm answering my own question regarding: "Should I just get Dumonts..."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • jdm pinned this topic

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Definitely thanks Nucejoe.  Im sure he would want something like this but so would i and unlikely  we would ever find him one. I think hes looking for more ground force troop's watches, a bit easier to come by. Appreciate the feedback though and something thats worth considering hes not short of a bob or two. Sounds interesting thanks LWS, i love watches with some war history attached, well any history really. And would be nice to see and hear about your restorations of them when you get underway.. We did a little research into Vietnam watches and came up with a couple of options for ground soldiers. Most obvious  was the Captain Willard, but my friend doesnt really have the wrist size to carry a diver. What are the A 11  and   A 17 ?
    • I have come across left-handed threads on ratchet wheels several times - without it being indicated with 3 stripes. It has been mentioned before - it was suggested that it was done to save one extra tooling operation (changing to a LH thread tap)
    • I would say that most of the Swiss movements that I have worked on over the years have had right hand threaded ratchet wheel screws. However maybe 10% have been left handers. As for the 3 slot marking to indicate reverse threads although I have encountered it on Swiss movements I find it's more of a non-Swiss practice, more common on Russian and Japanese movements. The thing with left hand threads is that they are inteded to prevent the screw from being undone in the event that the component that they are screwed into has a normally anti-clockwise direction of rotation, which would loosen a right handed thread unless there was some other means of preventing the component turning independently of the screw. With the ratchet wheel the screw goes into the mainspring arbor which is locked to the ratchet wheel via the square. Because the square locks everything together the screw can be left or right handed without issue.  
    • Hi Floyd, welcome to WRT! I'm also pretty new so take everything I say with a grain of salt. You ought to be able to measure the case ID to determine the crystal size and then purchase one of either side of the diameter you think ought to work. As to other parts, there are a couple of resources that will help. One is a website in Germany that will help with information on the movement. The other is a book (that I don't yet have) that seems to have a lot of information. Many of the vendors have this database available online and there are pdf versions that you can get on CD. Looking here will give you a list of domestic (USA) resources for parts and tools if you haven't already found some.
    • I think relying on the "stripes" on the screw head is the issue. If they're there, great but don't think that a normal screw head can't be left-handed and don't assume that the ratchet wheel can't have a left-handed screw either.
×
×
  • Create New...