Jump to content

Tweezers advice?


Recommended Posts

I've been using the Dumoxel #2 and #5 mainly (I lean towards #5 mostly) but I've seen Mark's tweezers in the videos and they look mighty good and strong....Since my #2's are a little battered I was wondering what were the one's featured in the videos.

 

I'm also open to opinions and suggestions as to what will be a durable and worthy replacements to the above 2.

 

Your input is deeply appreciated!

 

Robert

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you're handling delicate steel parts, brass tweezers are safer because they're softer than steel and won't mark the components.

Thanks Will,

 

I'm not too concerned about damaging surfaces presently but then again, once I actually start turning screws and loosing springs, etc., that may change :)

 

I'll leave them on my "nice to have" list for now.

 

Rossco

Link to comment
Share on other sites

By now, everyone knows I'm working mainly on Seikos -- apart from the rare Unitas 6498 or the ETA 2801-2/2824/46-2 mostly on the waiting list -- and so there is a question that has been bothering me for quite a while (but don't want to risk $40 plus replacement waiting in this experiment).

 

The barrel and train wheel bridge in the Seiko 7S26 or 7S36 has a clip that holds together the first reduction wheel and the pawl lever (magic lever) together. In the service data, they attach and/or detach the said clip, or "reduction wheel holder" as they call it, with tweezers.

 

After a while I guess you get the hang of it and do it in one swift movement -- at the beginning it takes more tries!. Either way, there is potential to leave marks on the bridge due to the action of the tweezers in this operation. (I have!)

 

The question here would be: Will brass tweezers be strong enough for this task (without the tweezers being damaged)?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

FYI,

Those of you guys in the USA looking for some very nice Brass Tweezers, Dashto Horological has some Very nice 1-AM Dumont Brass Tweezers for $7(retail is roughly $30us). I bought a pair and was very surprised to find they are brand new! I had to slightly dress the tips, but now they are perfect! I use them for quite a bit for assembly work....

The website is listed here...

http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/169-united-states/

 

Part number is:

009.3131

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

I have many tweezers however its taken me a while to get the handling and the care correct,

 

Would like to start again afresh with a new set. Need some that i will reserve for hairspring work as well.

 

 

Thanks in advance

 

Jonathan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Jonathan,

 

for hairspring work it is recommended very fine tweezers: #4 and #5 are preferred. I know good ones are expensive but they are a sure shot and the material is better. Cheap ones, well, you get what you pay for but some may come out all right momentarily if you know how to prepare/dress them correctly. A new set would include a #1, 2 #2s and 2 #5s and a #3 and maybe a #4 and #7 (if you feel confortable with the "beak" type).

 

I personally favor #5 for everything, but keep a #2 handy for heavy stuff. I got 2 types of #2, a wide point one and a fine point one, they each serve their purpose.

 

I think the last cheapo tweezers I got to experiment with and after dressing them right were quite acceptable -- but needed constant re dressing -- were "Stella" or something like that. In any case, ofrei has some cheap Chinese ones that are comparable to those cheap ones.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have had many brands of Tweezers over the years and always keep coming back to Dumont.

 

Size 5 or 4 for hairspring work.

Size 2 For general work.

 

I personally have no use for any other size apart 5, 2 and from my brass tweezers which are around size 3.

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hi all,

 

I have one good pair of quality brass tweezers, which are Bergeon gold plated, pattern 1AM and definitely on the pricey side. The other two pairs I have are cheap, Indian made and are a mess. I'm using them to practice dressing tweezers. Anyway, there doesn't seem to be anywhere near the availability of quality brass tweezers as steel. Which brand/pattern do you recommend and does anyone know a good supplier for them on the U.S. side of the pond?

 

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Don,

 

That's a good question, I've been searching high and low for some brass Dumond tweezers. Ofrei used to have them and now they are gone. Only ones available are Bergeon...The indian/chinese/whatever I got are not exactly doing too well even with dressed tips. So, I'm hoping a source for those arises soon on our side of the pond!

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a pair of the Vetus AA brass tweezers which got from Cousins last summer for a few quid. They seem pretty good to me but took a little getting used to as I prefer to use the Dumont No4 pattern tweezers which a quite a bit finer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a pair of the Vetus AA brass tweezers which got from Cousins last summer for a few quid. They seem pretty good to me but took a little getting used to as I prefer to use the Dumont No4 pattern tweezers which a quite a bit finer.

 Maybe there is'nt a brass tweezer other than the AA model from Vetus . To bad . There are also carbon tipped tweezers ? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Bob. If you're interested, I found a couple of sources for the Peer-Vigor brass tweezers in the U.S.

http://portlandjewelrysupplies.com/sitetools/product.php/view/detail/id/5082

https://www.artcotools.com/tweezers-patterns-aa-rr.html

Shipping is to expensive for me unless I'm buying more items, but they're bookmarked for later use.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • jdm pinned this topic

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Definitely thanks Nucejoe.  Im sure he would want something like this but so would i and unlikely  we would ever find him one. I think hes looking for more ground force troop's watches, a bit easier to come by. Appreciate the feedback though and something thats worth considering hes not short of a bob or two.
    • I have come across left-handed threads on ratchet wheels several times - without it being indicated with 3 stripes. It has been mentioned before - it was suggested that it was done to save one extra tooling operation (changing to a LH thread tap)
    • I would say that most of the Swiss movements that I have worked on over the years have had right hand threaded ratchet wheel screws. However maybe 10% have been left handers. As for the 3 slot marking to indicate reverse threads although I have encountered it on Swiss movements I find it's more of a non-Swiss practice, more common on Russian and Japanese movements. The thing with left hand threads is that they are inteded to prevent the screw from being undone in the event that the component that they are screwed into has a normally anti-clockwise direction of rotation, which would loosen a right handed thread unless there was some other means of preventing the component turning independently of the screw. With the ratchet wheel the screw goes into the mainspring arbor which is locked to the ratchet wheel via the square. Because the square locks everything together the screw can be left or right handed without issue.  
    • Hi Floyd, welcome to WRT! I'm also pretty new so take everything I say with a grain of salt. You ought to be able to measure the case ID to determine the crystal size and then purchase one of either side of the diameter you think ought to work. As to other parts, there are a couple of resources that will help. One is a website in Germany that will help with information on the movement. The other is a book (that I don't yet have) that seems to have a lot of information. Many of the vendors have this database available online and there are pdf versions that you can get on CD. Looking here will give you a list of domestic (USA) resources for parts and tools if you haven't already found some.
    • I think relying on the "stripes" on the screw head is the issue. If they're there, great but don't think that a normal screw head can't be left-handed and don't assume that the ratchet wheel can't have a left-handed screw either.
×
×
  • Create New...