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Seiko Kinetic


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I have just acquired a Seiko 5m42-0h20 kinetic watch , sold as faulty. It runs for a while but stops after about 10 minutes after the watch is stationary. A quick shake and its going again. I assume that it probably just needs a new capacitor(battery) and a spot of lubrication to get it back to normal use. It is in immaculate condition, not a mark on it or a sign that anyone has ever had the back off. I have serviced about 6 Seiko’s before, all either 7S26 or 7S36. I assumed that the back comes off in the same way as the Seiko 5s, but I cant budge it . Does anyone know if these have a different type of back, or alternatively if they are a normal screw on type does anyone have any tips to get it off? I am using an adjustable three pronged back removing tool, or trying to.

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Def a screw back not a snap on. Never seen a Seiko with "fake" screw back.

 

Fit the watch case in a vice with plenty of padding (cloth?) And use a good quality Jaxa wrench. Adjust it to the correct size, place it and use the palm of your other hand to put downwards pressure then applying CCW rotation with your other.

Don't jerk it but steady pressure.

9/10 times this does the trick.

 

Sent from my Honor 5c

 

 

 

 

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Thanks jdm I have just had a look at the 5700Z on cousins site, a great piece of kit but beyond my means, looks like I will have to find  a friendly watch maker!

Check "value case opener" threads for alternatives. Unfortunately it's one of these things one thinks can do without until you find you can't.
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Fit the watch case in a vice with plenty of padding (cloth?) And use a good quality Jaxa wrench. Adjust it to the correct size, place it and use the palm of your other hand to put downwards pressure then applying CCW rotation with your other.
Don't jerk it but steady pressure.
9/10 times this does the trick. 

Sometime the Jaxa is not enough, because having (stupidly) one handle only, it makes impossible to place force perfectly vertical while turning at the same time. And at each failed attempt it makes deep scratches even if plastic bag is placed in between.
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Sometime the Jaxa is not enough, because having (stupidly) one handle only, it makes impossible to place force perfectly vertical while turning at the same time. And at each failed attempt it makes deep scratches even if plastic bag is placed in between.


Hence the palm pressing down on the tool.



Sent from my Honor 5c

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Hence the palm pressing down on the
tool.

What I'm trying to tell you is that is not enough, because an human hand and arm are not a machine. I wouldn't have spent $150 if I could have done without it.
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What I'm trying to tell you is that is not enough, because an human hand and arm are not a machine. I wouldn't have spent $150 if I could have done without it.


Hmm, not scratched one, yet.
I've done around 11 or 12 mine and friends up to now that we're almost welded on tight.
Hope you haven't jinxed me now [emoji1]

Sent from my Honor 5c

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Thanks for all of the suggestions. As the watch was from ebay and didnt cost much I was reluctant to spend a lot on a 5700z type tool,(which would undoubtedly be easier to use and kinder to the watch) I could  buy a new watch for that money. I put it in a watch holder in the workbench vise and with all my weight pressing on the jaxa tool before trying to turn it slowly applied pressure and it opened ok.

The battery (sorry capacitor, got to get used to calling it that because The Royal Mail wont carry LI-ON batteries) only measured 0.5v.

The rotor was a bit stiff so i have lubricated the whole generator section , fortunately this web site has the documents for the watch. It is rotates much better now so I'll see if its any better now before ordering a new Capacitor

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The battery (sorry capacitor, got to get used to calling it that because The Royal Mail wont carry LI-ON batteries) only measured 0.5v.

It is a rechargeable battery indeed. Capacitor was the previous technology now phased out, but you can find some sources stll using the name.
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  • 1 month later...

Hi everyone. Is there anyone with much experience of these watches. As previously mentioned the component was replaced and the generator section cleaned and lubricated. The info I got said that when the button is activated to display the power reserve, if the second hand moves 20 seconds then you will have enough energy to run about two weeks. I wore the watch every day for two weeks to get it fully charged. I set the date correctly to see when it would stop after no further use. After two weeks it was still running and indicating 20 seconds. I then went on holiday for a month and it is still running and showing 20seconds, I haven’t moved it ,holding it still when the button is pressed. After all that , what I would like to know is how long is the watch likely to keep on running before stopping. Part of me wants to leave it and see how long it goes for and part of me wants to use it.

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The information you have is what the old Seiko manual used to state for these watches, the new capacitor you have fitted will be a lithium ion battery and will hold far more charge than the old type approx 20 to 30 times that of the old so the charge will last far longer they are also quicker to charge than the old capacitors. 

Edited by wls1971
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  • 5 months later...

An update about the kinetic watch , I have not worn it again since taking it off half way through April this year and it stopped on 11-11-17. It was indicating two weeks reserve when I took it off and it ran for seven months without being moved. I think if it originally ran for two weeks when it indicated that it would, then the change from the "capacitor" to the lithium battery is a vast improvement. I think I will remove all of the dust and perhaps use it now and then.

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