Jump to content

Do these hands (Hour & Minute) look misaligned to you guys?


Recommended Posts

Looks alright to me.  How does it look if you set the time at 6 a clock. Are they inline then?  Have experienced some slack in the hour wheel on some movements . Making the hand get in different positions if you turn the hands backwards or forwards. But never heard anyone complain about it. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

At six o'clock its bang on too.  Using the dial printing as a horizontal rule, with the hands set at six o'clock, I have four perfect right angles (45 degrees reference points).

Agree with the slack on some movements, this movement is an Asian 7750 and it does indeed have quite a bit of play.

Some people with these reps have far more unreal expectations of them than any of my genuine watch brand customers.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, SSTEEL said:

At six o'clock its bang on too.  Using the dial printing as a horizontal rule, with the hands set at six o'clock, I have four perfect right angles (45 degrees reference points).

Agree with the slack on some movements, this movement is an Asian 7750 and it does indeed have quite a bit of play.

Some people with these reps have far more unreal expectations of them than any of my genuine watch brand customers.

Maybe he should go to a optician instead :) 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've actually never had a customer complain about the precision of my hand setting, and that's not to suggest mine has always been perfect. In my experience customers are usually extremely ignorant of the hand setting accuracy, they bring watches in that are off a solid 15 minutes and don't notice until I tell them. Pretty typical you'd get someone so picky on a replica though. Tough situation. I second about the dial printing, I also think that many genuine watches of various brands dont print their dials in a way that allows the hands to show truly perfectly at every position. He surely expects too much.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have to agree with everyone else.  They look good to me.  Panerai hands can be kind of tough because there aren't a lot of reference markers.  Add the fact that production accuracy (of the dial or movement) may not be a high priority and you have a perfect storm.

 

It may not be a good business practice, but If if were me and the customer is that picky I would send the watch back free of charge and not accept anymore work from them.  You just can't please some people and it sounds like you have bent over backwards trying to do so.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I will have to let this customer go.  I so prefer to work on genuine brand watches as my day job, but you'd be surprised of some flaws I have found with these too, the latest, a Tutima, the inner chapter ring was misaligned.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • As an experiment i was thinking of not hardening it to see how it fairs. Now that i have a complete template i could knock up another in half the time if this loses its elasticity. I might play about with a few pieces today to test their bending and spring properties. This was cs 100 the supplier quoted in annealed state, it was nice to work with files so I'm taking it thats its state. What you are looking seems like it would need annealing to work it. This is why i went for this stuff that cuts out that process, it was so easy to work.
    • Showing state of hairspring on receipt, backplate & 'dished' wheel. 
    • I would harden and temper (to a light blue). It's so easy to do and only takes a couple of minutes. A search on ebay UK for "spring steel strip cs" finds plenty available in small quantites and thicknesses from 0.1mm up.  But the question is ( @nickelsilver) which "CS" number is best for watch parts ?  Also, from one of the ads : "CARBON SPRING STEEL. SIZE IS METRIC 15.00mm X 0.10mm X 304 MM  CS100 FINISH BRIGHT . HARDENED AND TEMPERD TO 480-530VPN" I've no idea about 480-530VPN. Does that mean it needs annealing before working?       Have you seen this video, he shows how to determine where the indents go ?  
    • Here is the insert ring for rectangular or elliptical movements: Note that the length is the side with the stem cut out on the spreadsheet (in the picture below this is 15.15: Here is the fake pdf file, again you need to convert to .zip after download to access the FreeCAD and 3mf files. Rectangular insert disc.pdf    
    • as you took the mainspring out what did it look like? It's amazing how much amplitude you can get if the mainspring actually has the proper shape. last week I was doing a 12 size Hamilton and was very much surprised with the beautiful back curvature the mainspring had. Then the watch had a really nice amplitude the group would be so proud it was 350 until I dropped the lift angle down to 38 that drop the amplitude quite a bit below 300. then with the beautiful back curve it still had really nice amplitude the next day. I really wish all my mainspring's look like this as the watch had beautiful amplitude the next day. So many of the aftermarket pocketwatch Springs I see now do not have anything resembling a back curve may be a slight curve and that's about all. They still work but they just don't work as nice as a properly made spring. then Omega as all sorts of nifty technical documentation unfortunately every single corner is watermarked with where it came from who downloaded it etc. very paranoid company. On the other hand I will snip out images like from the document on recycling a mainspring barrel. for instance here's the section on what your mainspring should look like. water damaged a lot of times means rust was there rust on this watch?
×
×
  • Create New...