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No worries, I had just noticed that it was sold for mechanical cleaners. I also use a jar in a small ultrasonic, and if it works for you, I might go ahead and try it myself. I just didn't want to pop for that cleaner without a review from someone who used it that way.

Thanks!

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Fair one mate, I was in the same boat, didn't want to drop yet another bundle of cash on watch stuff without knowing how it performs, but thanks to this thread I had a heads up.

i gotta say on an old Waltham plate and balance cock and a couple of wheels it was great, ok not mirror shine shiney but shiney and clean.

you won't be disappointed in your purchase that's for sure.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I am looking for some advice to extend the life of my cleaning fluid. Over time I find that I have particles settling at the bottom of the solution. Do any of you filter your cleaning solutions? If so what do you use?

I was thinking coffee filter paper would probably do a good job, but could paper dust residue contaminate the solution, in which case it would defeat the object... 

many thanks in advance

 

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Hello,

If by cleaning fluid you mean Naptha, I just use it until dirty and then throw it out. Naptha is about 5 dollars a quart, so it's not that expensive and lasts a while. The one dip I use a little more conservatively (excuse the negative connotation this word has acquired) because it's only used for hairsprings and pallets.

J

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Oli I shall follow this thread with interest, I too have had thoughts about filtering out my cleaning solution, one bracelet and case wash and my jar was knackered. And at £53 for 3.8 litres ( that's 3.4 of a quart and that equates to $67)  of extra fine L&R fluid id like mine to last as long as I could.

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I used to filter the cleaner and the rinse. I used the filter paper used for filtering wine or beer, I could get from BOOTS chemist also the filter holder was the correct size for the old L & R jars. For my L&R Vari- Matic Automatic which had round jars I would filter the stuff using a spare L & R jar from the old machine, poring the fluid into an old jug first, washing out the jars in hot soapy water and drying with a clean cloth that didn't leave particles behind.

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9 hours ago, noirrac1j said:

Hello,

If by cleaning fluid you mean Naptha, I just use it until dirty and then throw it out.

I should have mentioned, I was talking about fluid for cleaning machine, which is a bit more expensive than that.

 

 

Thank you very much oldhippy, that is really helpful (as always! - I really appreciate you sharing your experience!)

I am going to give that a go

 

 

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2 hours ago, transporter said:

Oli I shall follow this thread with interest, I too have had thoughts about filtering out my cleaning solution, one bracelet and case wash and my jar was knackered. And at £53 for 3.8 litres ( that's 3.4 of a quart and that equates to $67)  of extra fine L&R fluid id like mine to last as long as I could.

I don't wash cases and bracelets in cleaning solution, I find washing up liquid and water works fine for them. I leave the solutions just for the watch parts in the main.

Stephen

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Ditto here, case and bracelets go in the ultrasonic with washing liquid. I only use the cleaning solution for movement parts.

Despite pre-cleaning most parts in Renata essence and pegging jewel holes, I still find sediments in my cleaning solution after a few cycles (not a lot, but i don't like the idea of cleaning watch parts in fluid that is anything but perfectly clean!). 

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  • 4 weeks later...

I'd come to some of the conclusions in this thread independently after thinking about the way to approach cleaning on a budget. Particularly the idea of putting small glass bottles of expensive and/or volatile fluids in the water filled bath - and how much does plastic actually attenuate the process? I'd also looked at isopropyl as a cleaning medium rather than a rinse but I guess I was wrong on that. One question I'd appreciate an answer to is whether the water-additive "jewelry and watches" ultra sonic products are actually useful? One I've already tried turned a crown wheel black... The range of dedicated watch cleaning products available is confusing. What's recommended for an impoverished pensioner/beginner to try?

Roy

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I'd come to some of the conclusions in this thread independently after thinking about the way to approach cleaning on a budget. Particularly the idea of putting small glass bottles of expensive and/or volatile fluids in the water filled bath - and how much does plastic actually attenuate the process? I'd also looked at isopropyl as a cleaning medium rather than a rinse but I guess I was wrong on that. One question I'd appreciate an answer to is whether the water-additive "jewelry and watches" ultra sonic products are actually useful? One I've already tried turned a crown wheel black... The range of dedicated watch cleaning products available is confusing. What's recommended for an impoverished pensioner/beginner to try?

Roy

edit. I just found these on Amazon which might be suitable for the purpose. Does glass thickness impact on the u-s performance?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bar-Craft-Shot-Glasses-Lids/dp/B01B4NJ96M/ref=pd_sbs_201_6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=G0HSWSG44JHAB8ZE64CD

Edited by skridlov
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Mate all I can say and this is through experience of being on a budget and trying to find a cheaper way of cleaning if using ultra sonic machines.

i don't have an expensive ultra sonic I've small James cleaner holds about half a litre if that, for glass jars I use a small Kilner jar for cleaning fluid and two of small jam jars ( the type you get in hotels ) for my rinse agent. Together this lot has cost me approx £35.

For cleaning fluid and believe me I have tried loads of off the shelf or home made ultra sonic solutions and believe me the best I have used is L&R ultra fine cleaning solution, no it's not the cheapest but it **BLEEP** cleans fantastically, and shines at the same time. 

I re use mine by filtering it through coffee filters, £2 for 40 out of tescos that way it stays clean to reuse numerous times.

For rinse agent I use isopropyl alcohol, luckily I can get this for free from work, but I believe it's not too expensive over the counter so to speak.

I know the £53 for the cleaning solution (inc P&P ) sounds a lot but I can assure you I've probably spent double that on different cheaper alternatives that haven't worked.

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I use VM&P (Varnish Makers and Painters) Naptha for cleaner, and anhydrous(no water) isopropyl alcohol for rinse. Generally a light petroleum distillate will work as a solvent on the oils and dirt in a watch. Something like Naptha or what we call "White Gas" (Coleman, or camp stove, fuel) here in the states.

Just be careful with alcohol, it can dissolve the shellac that holds pallet and roller jewels in place. Also, a little bit of heat is good when drying the parts, I use a hair dryer. The idea is to keep water from condensing on the parts as the alcohol dries and the parts cool.

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Thanks guys, very useful and informative stuff. I'd thought through the requirements a bit and other than the exact cleaning fluid I'd come up with the same scenario. I bought a litre of isopropyl online - stated 99.9% purity so I'm guessing that would be as near anhydrous as necessary.

At some point before too long I'm going to have to try handling the balance assembly - a prospect that's pretty horrifying after watching a very good video on line which is connected with this site I believe. Outstandingly well shot and presented series which puts most of the stuff out there to shame.

Thanks again

Roy

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Personally I use CRC brakleen as a first wash it's pretty amazing(basically one dip). Then it goes into l&r ammoniated cleaner then l&r #3 rinse. In combination they have worked really well for me in a ultrasonic cleaner.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Good discussion and suggestions.

If I use L&R #109 "Extra Fine Watch Cleaning Solution" in an ultrasonic cleaner, should I warm the solution or leave it at room temperature?  If warmed, to what temperature?

I've searched multiple sites, including L&R's and this one, but not been able to find the answer.  Ultrasonic cleaning machine manufacturers recommend that cleaning action is enhanced with temperature, up to a limit of about 60*C.  I've read the MSDS for #109 (and #566) and they both contain the same formulations comprising volatile hydrocarbon mixtures.  I would be concerned about heating to 60*C for fear of enhanced flammability and health concerns.

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I leave my solution alone, I don't worry about warming it up, eventually though it will get abit warm and thats only through the heat generated in the water by the action of the cleaning machine.

Don't get too caught up here with all these cleaners and temperatures and how flammable they are guys ok, the world is too fluffy already, just go buy some L&R ultra fine for cleaning and isopropyl alcohol for rinsing and go get cleaning job done.

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  • 1 month later...

Hey everyone. So I am at a loss here, I have done tons and tons of reading and am still stumped on how I should go about cleaning watch parts. I have never serviced a watch and am completely new to this. I can't buy an expensive 3 jar machine or anything like that. I was looking at a Harbor Freight ultrasonic machine and maybe putting some glass jars in it. I would buy LR ultrasonic cleaner and rinse. I'd clean the parts for 6 minutes in the cleaner and then rinse for 3 minutes all in the ultrasonic. However, the solvents are very expensive at $50 each since you can only get gallons. Finally I know that ultrasonics are dangerous for the older plated movements of which I'd like to service as well. I would be open to hand cleaning movements as well but of course the watch cleaner is dangerous on the skin! Can anyone recommend some simple solutions for a beginner? I am just looking to do a basic cleaning and service for watches that run already.

One of the easiest ideas I came up with was to peg the pivots and jewels, use rodico on the surfaces of each part, and then put the watch parts in water with this cleaner http://www.esslinger.com/gemoro-ultrasonic-jewelry-cleaner-solution-concentrate-quart/ . After I would take the parts out and gently scrub them with an brush then into a small cotainer with denatured alcohol as a rinse and then dry... How does this sound? Probably very insufficient I would imagine. How would I clean the balance and pallet fork in this manner? Would I have to buy a one dip solution?

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Easiest and cheapest way to start is probably to use naphtha which you can buy anywhere as cigarette lighter fluid  (Zippo type not gas).

Peg out the pivots with Peg wood, then clean in the u/s bath in small jars of naphtha in a water bath. Particularly dirty movement plates may benefit from brushing using a soft toothbrush, wear nitrile gloves if your skin is sensitive to naphtha. Those little interdental brushes  (like miniature bottle brushes ) can also be useful here.

Rinse in a second bath of clean naphtha and then a final quick rinse in isopropyl alcohol. 

Impulse jewels and pallet stones are typically secured using shellac which is soluble in alcohol so the balance wheel and pallet fork should only get the briefest of rinses. 

Then lay out on absorbant tissue to dry.

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Marc's advice is sound.

I used this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Instrument-Degreaser-Cleaning-Fluid-500ml-Essence-of-Renata-Watches-hairspring-/381978519631?hash=item58efb1a84f:g:slYAAOxyMxpRwaJY with a soft toothbrush and no ultrasonic bath for a long time.

You can buy special watch brushes from material houses, but I've never got around to this.

 

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