Jump to content

iwc watch

phuckaduck
 Share

Recommended Posts

phuckaduck Member

phuckaduck

Posted
Posted

Hi to all, I am in need of some direction or if possible anyone who will know of this watch. I was given a international watch co watch,,

c.8541

1852723

schaffhausen

stay brite steel

1777673

803a

1/  what does that mean some i have figured out as i have waded through the net.

2/ it does run but the crown wheel and shaft if that is right pullout completely even after you reseat it and tighten the retaining screw 

3/ the date indicator plate has a tendency to stick and i believe that this is caused by the plate that is screwed in place over the top of the date indicator, if i back the screws of it will turn but cannot think that they would be left in that way from the factory,

4/ in under the date indicator is a loose steel ring, it is held in place but it is not secured in any way bar, positioning points and you can here it tinkling.  

any assistance is well appreciated, thankyou pd

Link to comment
Share on other sites
clockboy Distinguished Member

clockboy

Posted
Posted

Without removing the dial & hands it is always difficult to analyse the fault. I have found a link which shows drawings of the 8541.

http://www.gregsteer.net/IWC/Cal_85/Calibre8541Watches.htm

Also see below a pdf of the parts & ref numbers. I have noticed Cousins carry most of the spares if required but they are on the pricey side.

6686_IWC Cal 854, 8541 .pdf

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
wls1971 Distinguished Member

wls1971

Posted
Posted (edited)

Well you dont say what you have figured out so I will say what I know from the information you have given, your movement (1852723) was manufactured in 1967 and your case (1777673) between 1966-1968 so that ties in as being all original the 803a is the model number being a round stainless steel case or as IWC use the alternative name "Staybrite".

Thats a hell of a watch to be given regarded by many as one of the finest automatics produced, people will probably have a better idea of whats wrong if you supply pictures to better outline your description

Wayne

Edited by wls1971
Link to comment
Share on other sites
phuckaduck Member

phuckaduck

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thankyou so much everyone,

1/ stem is all one piece but what i can see is the groove where the setting lever locates ,the edges are all chattered and chipped.

2/ the ring under the date wheel is the disk door and this is what is making the tinkling sound, is this ment to be set firm or float around.I have not been able figure out what it does precisely. 

3/ as soon as i am  able to get clear photoes i will load them up. I only stripped it down so far when i thought better of it and not just wading in.

4 The sites that were provided are very helpful and thanks all

the only thing i had figured was was the movement number, no idea for the rest of the provided numbers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • joelcarvajal
      Gamblin Gamsol for cleaning?

      By joelcarvajal · Posted

      Thank you all for the replies!  Very informative! True enough, the Gamsol took some time to evaporate and does leave a residue. So not all naphtha are created equal!  Need to find alternatives then. i was able to try Hexane recommended by Alex and it seems great.  I wonder what the cons are?
    • GuyMontag
      1972 Bulova President "E" Sea King 11ACACB movement

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Zedster
      Movement inserted from crytal side

      By Zedster · Posted

      Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • nevenbekriev
      Main spring

      By nevenbekriev · Posted

      Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
    • ManSkirtBrew
      1972 Bulova President "E" Sea King 11ACACB movement

      By ManSkirtBrew · Posted

      I did not. I thought about it, but I had cleaned it in my ultrasonic, and the tech sheet shows lubricating it in place already assembled, so I figured discretion was the better part of valor. Although since I have to depth the jewels anyway, maybe I pull the pinion off to rule it out 100% as part of the problem. Do you know if there's a safe way to do it? I don't want to use a puller because it would push down on the plane of the wheel, and that seems like a Bad Idea. I thought about using a roller table remover, but I don't think I have a hole stake pointy enough to push it down.
×
×
  • Create New...