Jump to content

Hypothetical Skeleton Movement Eta 2801-2


Recommended Posts

So, if I wanted to case an ETA 2801-2 -- or similar -- which is a skeleton version in this particular case, and therefore has no dial to offer support to the hour wheel (and no friction face down) Does it use a special pinion wheel? What is the most popular solution? (I've seen this version around and was wondering about it)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Robert, here's my take on it.

The plate that holds the minute wheel in place would appear to be the key to this. The captive minute hand will prevent the cannon assembly falling forward, so when the hour wheel is in place and the minute hand is fitted, it will keep the whole lot together.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dear Bob,

 

If the watch is originally made as a skeleton (as opposed to being skeletonised by an enthusiast), then the manufacturer would have made it so that the hour wheel can't come off.

 

The hour wheel is the last wheel on and is retained by the dial/dial washer. Theoretically the minute hand will retain the hour hand/wheel from coming off but the hour wheel may skip as the hour wheel/driving wheels are quite thin.

 

I can think of 3 options...

 

1. You could fabricate a spring off one of the dial side screws..(the setting lever bridge?) to hold the hour wheel down.

 

2. Use clear plastic to make a dial, the dial (with movement ring) also serves to position the movt in the case.., correct height in the case so the crown tube aligns correctly with the stem 'hole'. A clear dial of the correct thickness would help.

 

Finally...

 

3. You could also skeletonise the original dial.. leave the dial feet in place and cut/drill out strategic areas..a bit fiddly but do-able.

 

Anil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Hey @bobm12, I have a similar skeleton problem. I took a skeleton Asian 6497 and cased it in an Otto Frei #10 case, and have been having a hell of a time keeping the hour wheel from slipping ever since. I attempted to use a crown o-ring to keep it all tamped down, and that ended pretty badly. How did you eventually solve for this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow, I hadn't seen this post in ages...Sorry Anil, I didn't see your excellent response! I appreciate it and learned some more!

naugamonster, I don't work on skeletonized movements so this was all hypothetical...from a long time ago (old thread). I'm sorry but I never did work on any...I don't usually like those movements and prefer the regular ones. I did come across some rather "skeletonized" and old/vintage Swatch ETA 2840 which use the plate that holds the minute wheel (modified for that purpose) to do the job. In my mind, if you could get your hands on one of those and the movement is of the 2801 family you may be able to use the same plate (interchangeably). For the 6497 I believe the "forum" in the TZ course has dealt with it in its own way -- found in the old posts section --...you might want to ask the instructor if you are a student.

As Anil said, they usually have their own solution when first acquired...unless someone has tinkered with the one you have previously and lost the part or something.

Do you have a picture showing the movement and trouble area? It might be helpful in case I or any other member can help.

Cheers,

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, szbalogh said:

Skeletonized movements have the hour wheel retaining plate/spring screwed to the baseplate. No dial needed.

Unless they are cheap Chinese 6497 clones...I bought this a while ago to disassemble/reassemble for practice, and later, tried to case as a gift. It's been a headache. The keyless works is a mess, too.

skel_6497.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, naugamonster said:

I'll note that that tiny little brass washer in the photo did NOT come with my movement, and that's probably the source of my problems.

Meanwhile checked my 2650 skeleton movement, it has that hour wheel retaining plate. But the 6497 surprisingly missing it as can be seen on all pictures google pops out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, szbalogh said:

Meanwhile checked my 2650 skeleton movement, it has that hour wheel retaining plate. But the 6497 surprisingly missing it as can be seen on all pictures google pops out.

Heh. Yeah I checked my 2650S last night and noticed the plate. The 2650 is 12L (27mm) diameter. Do you know where I can find movement casing rings (plastic or otherwise) for something like that?

IMG_20160514_095917852.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, i suggest You not to go with this movement. It is a really low end basic one. I got mine for 5 USD in a complete watch in an auction. Poor guy suffered all of my learning practices and still working :)I would stick to the 6497. Dont know where to buy spacer rings. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can probably use some Seiko case for the 2650 as long as the stem lines up...the Seiko movement is about 12 ligne if I'm not mistaken so the well in the case should be ok...just a guess. The ring could be ordered from some suppliers like ofrei and cousinsUK by size or made with any material you can think of...one expensive solution that requires some work is using Speedi-fit...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

On Accutrons--The Minute-Hand holds the hour-wheel in place in the spaceview models with no dial. There is no added keep-plate or other item for the hour wheel.

Is it not possible to drive the minute-hand on a little deeper to do the same here?

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thanks Dell. I thought about silver soldering. Have never done it but would like to give it a go. Do you think to put flux on the butted joint then run the solder in or to maybe brace it with a piece of scrap spring steel?
    • Never and others. Yes like you I do spend a fair amount of time reading the contents of this forum. I find it better that any other. clear, lucid, no Prima Donas, and most of all an easy access without adverts. All thanks to Mark. God bless you mate. You give so much to many of us. What if? No Mark? Hypothetically. A forum. I did run a forum for a few years. Really enjoyed it, but became so engrossed that it did affect my health. I gave to to others to run. Not been back. It was very successful and rivalled a number of large paying sites. No adverts, no others but me. I did ask and listen to members comments and it worked well.    Costs Having a domain name, £10 annually.  Register the site with a forum company, free. Build the site using the forum company guide lines, free. It looked and ran almost the same a Mark's. All the same facilities. The cost was only £5 per month, but counted visits (views). If I recall, it was that price for 5,000 views. Each extra 5,000 views increased the price by £2 per month. Success was my own personal undoing. From £5 per month initially, it rose to £60 a month and looked like increasing. This was 10 years ago. I could not afford that, and asked it anyone would like to take over and someone did. I would assume that this is the price that Mark is funding for us all. His return is our continued comments on the internet about his course, and the fact that many of the big names on YouTube mention him as their Tutor. Those of us who have done, and are still using, his course, benefit. In comparison to other courses, I can't believe how cheap it is, and the value is exceptional. It is the structure that gives the value. Long may Mark reign. Ross  
    • Hi all, total newbie to watchmaking and I've had a bit of a mishap. Just completing level 2 and was doing ok, but I was just on the last part of the reassembly of my ST3620 when the balance end stone shot across the room, just as I was trying to see if I had put the correct amount of oil between it and the balance end, aarrrgh! Been on my hands and knees combing the carpet for 20mins looking for it but to no avail. Does anybody know where I can get a replacement from and what to look for please?? Thanks.
    • Get someone local to tig it ,very easy fix and should only take a few minutes so probably wouldn’t cost much ,or failing that get it very clean and silver solder it. Dell
    • Hi, The winding pin is not split, well that's how it was when I obtained the watch. The movement is front-loaded and here's a picture of where the case screws are fitted. The face picture is before I dismantled it. Quick update.  I've always had a nylon ring sitting in the parts try that I wasn't sure where it went and left it to the last thing as I know it must be part of the case assembly. Anyway, looking at the picture in my last post you can see, just under the winding stem, a white-looking object, this is the nylon ring 🤭 So, I had to remove the dial again and replace the ring. Once this was all back together I placed the movement in the case and realized my initial problem maybe is not a problem as it looks like I can screw the movement back in the case and then place the hands as the dial is nearly flush with the outside of the case anyway so I'll be able to check for alignment. if all is good then just fit the crystal and bezel 🤔 I can't think of any issues with this approach but please comment if you think I've not thought of something. Another lesson learned as well. Take more pictures not just of the movement parts and location 😅
×
×
  • Create New...