Jump to content
mk3

Watch of Today

Recommended Posts

4 minutes ago, yankeedog said:

collective brain power is amazing..

Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects. 

Will Rogers

WRT too, is an instrument of communication.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, Johnnie said:

And today it's another Seiko, the first watch I really "got into" and repaired and finished. Thanks mainly to the excellent guidance I received from fellow forum members.

IMG_20170601_121919.jpg

Really clean example of this watch ,...Nice work Johnnie .

They say , "like minds think alike" , ........That may be true .

 

1493869352_ScreenShot2019-05-17at10_58_55PM.thumb.png.fb6e7da54808a0f87eaec1fcadb9ae43.png

659141730_ScreenShot2019-05-17at11_00_54PM.thumb.png.e55b6a597f10b7c1b4d812b79a02e996.png

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm wearing one of the Timexes today. It looks reasonable on the time-grapher, but gained about three  minutes left face up on the desk over 24hrs, so I decided to see if it was better behaved on my wrist before diving in and fiddling.

RIMG0198.thumb.JPG.8a8cdcc2a86b7c74ceeb26050aabe6a6.JPG

The strap is probably from roughly the correct period, but I'll most likely substitute a leather one.

These springy old bits of metal tend to wear out the lugs, and since this old fella is pre 1962, probably mid to late 1950s I feel it needs something gentler to keep it company. I also need to check the junk pile to see if I have a suitable second hand for it. 

The Lorus went on the other wrist shortly after I took this pic, so that I don't scratch either of them by bashing their heads together.

Edited by AndyHull

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This one just came off the work bench.The progeny of two movements with different issues.it has more positional variation than I like,but it is shuffling along pretty well.genuwine leather strap from the Wal-Mart discount bin set me back a whole 99 cents

IMAG0661.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

"Andrew The Hatton" from the mid 1950s finally got a little of the much needed TLC I promised it, when I was waiting for it to arrive back in December. Sporting what I think is a Amida caliber 553 17 jewel variant, it is a bit of a rarity I think (rare ≠ valuable however). I'm probably wrong however, so any better guesses are welcome.

It obviously still needs a crystal, and got a more thorough scrub and polish after I took these pictures, as I clearly didn't make a perfect job of it the first time. The marks on the dial were there when it arrived, and I haven't dared to even think about cleaning the dial yet. I'll probably leave that well alone.

RIMG0210.thumb.JPG.a735a3238d150c3dd49b67835599035d.JPG

Another non-runner, needing the usual clean and service. It seems to be running reasonably fine around +40s/day, although the error is a little high for my liking at 3ms or so. I'll wear it and keep an eye on it for the next 24 hrs just to be sure it has survived my servicing efforts unscathed.

RIMG0207.thumb.JPG.da0cf6859d9043c122f1657d0023286e.JPG

I thought you might like to see my patented case back opener. aka a short length of carpet tape. This stuff is scarily sticky, so it makes an ideal substitute for the no doubt very expensive bespoke opener that adorned the shelves of the original service centers back in the day. It also doesn't leave any sticky residue. If this hadn't done the trick, I was going to superglue a nut on the case back, another useful trick to avoid marring things when you don't have the custom case back opener you require.

RIMG0206.thumb.JPG.86503e34072bb642da53b71a14c98396.JPG

If it keeps ticking for the next day or so, I'll spring for a crystal for it (which may represent a doubling of the cost of my "investment" :D). 

Edited by AndyHull

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This little cocktail watch was an eBay non-runner. I cleaned it, oiled it, replaced the mainspring and worn barrel arbour, fixed a bend in the hairspring, reduced the hole size in the minute hand, new crystal . And I also did some dynamic poising. I've got it running within 15secs per day in all positions. It's by far the tiniest movement I've worked on. Everything else seems comparatively huge now!

The only annoying thing is I accidentally rubbed off the Omega logo whilst attempting to clean the dial :growl:

 

IMG_1670.thumb.jpeg.15ba348bf1bd21a5c059c6a1fd2d738d.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, AndyHull said:

"Andrew The Hatton" from the mid 1950s finally got a little of the much needed TLC I promised it, when I was waiting for it to arrive back in December. Sporting what I think is a Amida caliber 553 17 jewel variant, it is a bit of a rarity I think (rare ≠ valuable however). I'm probably wrong however, so any better guesses are welcome.

It obviously still needs a crystal, and got a more thorough scrub and polish after I took these pictures, as I clearly didn't make a perfect job of it the first time. The marks on the dial were there when it arrived, and I haven't dared to even think about cleaning the dial yet. I'll probably leave that well alone.

RIMG0210.thumb.JPG.a735a3238d150c3dd49b67835599035d.JPG

Another non-runner, needing the usual clean and service. It seems to be running reasonably fine around +40s/day, although the error is a little high for my liking at 3ms or so. I'll wear it and keep an eye on it for the next 24 hrs just to be sure it has survived my servicing efforts unscathed.

RIMG0207.thumb.JPG.da0cf6859d9043c122f1657d0023286e.JPG

I thought you might like to see my patented case back opener. aka a short length of carpet tape. This stuff is scarily sticky, so it makes an ideal substitute for the no doubt very expensive bespoke opener that adorned the shelves of the original service centers back in the day. It also doesn't leave any sticky residue. If this hadn't done the trick, I was going to superglue a nut on the case back, another useful trick to avoid marring things when you don't have the custom case back opener you require.

RIMG0206.thumb.JPG.86503e34072bb642da53b71a14c98396.JPG

If it keeps ticking for the next day or so, I'll spring for a crystal for it (which may represent a doubling of the cost of my "investment" :D). 

I love the hasty engraving  seventeen  1 jewels

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 minutes ago, yankeedog said:

I love the hasty engraving  seventeen  1 jewels

I was thinking about that, I suspect they had a bunch of rotors, all inscribed in bulk "           1   Jewels Swiss " which then got "Twenty One 2" or "Seventeen   7" inscribed on them later, depending on the movement they were destined for.

Alternatively this was a bit of a Friday watch.

It is still ticking away nicely after a slightly shaky start (it stopped soon after I put it on, so I manually fully wound it). The amplitude has picked up a bit too, and the rate dropped to -50 from around -40 - the beat error has also decreased to about 2.2ms, so it looks like the lubrication is starting to settle in.
 

Edited by AndyHull

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
43 minutes ago, margolisd said:

This little cocktail watch was an eBay non-runner. I cleaned it, oiled it, replaced the mainspring and worn barrel arbour, fixed a bend in the hairspring, reduced the hole size in the minute hand, new crystal . And I also did some dynamic poising. I've got it running within 15secs per day in all positions. It's by far the tiniest movement I've worked on. Everything else seems comparatively huge now!

The only annoying thing is I accidentally rubbed off the Omega logo whilst attempting to clean the dial :growl:

 

IMG_1670.thumb.jpeg.15ba348bf1bd21a5c059c6a1fd2d738d.jpeg

These tiny movements can be a real challenge. As to the dial, it is all too easy to do. I cleaned a nasty green mark off one and settled back to admire my handiwork, only to then realize I had also removed part of the word "Swiss" :wacko:

Edited by AndyHull

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 minutes ago, yankeedog said:

I am just amazed at the quality of work that can be done with a hangover.

Surely that would be a Monday morning watch. A Friday one would be after a liquid lunch, so the hangover hasn't kicked in yet.. not that I would know of course... :P

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, margolisd said:

The only annoying thing is I accidentally rubbed off the Omega logo whilst attempting to clean the dial :growl:

What size (diameter) is the dial? I might have a spare if you want to have another try ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

1978 Timex Mercury - I finally got this to behave itself.

RIMG0221.thumb.JPG.fbe3e1837f92d74fbf0c9c1796a4ef2e.JPG

I could possibly go chasing a little more amplitude, but from >+3600 s/day with a beat error of >14ms and an amplitude of around 140 fully wound following the first cleaning session  to +/- 5s/day, a sub 1ms beat error and an amplitude hovering around 230 degrees is almost good enough to keep the OCD at bay for the time being. Just as well really as I was going cross eyed staring at that hairspring for so long.

Except of course
there are still those little scratches on the crystal, (which I have grossly exaggerated by holding the watch at just the right angle to the sun here). Time to do a little more light polishing I think.  But first, I think I'l wear it for a few days, just because I like the look of it, and I'm bound to add to the scratches while wearing it, rather than lessen them.

848244419_Screenshotat2019-05-2112-29-07.png.9c551a4912fa5b71673f1ff14eaab611.png
Its amazing what you can do with a little patience and a couple of sewing needles. The hair-spring-de-nardelling was done with the balance still in the watch, as it is far too much of a faff to take it out, and you run the risk of "fixing it worse" and/or loosing the hs retaining pin if you are not careful.

Edited by AndyHull

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Have you tested the hand tubes for binding, just remove the hands, see if stops at 12.05 .  Canon pinion rubbing on mainplate?   
    • Dont know the longevity of watch straps as I have many watches and wear them at infrequent intervals but I can tell you about leather as I'm into leather as well as watches and I've made belts, wallets, bags, watch straps, purses etc. There are many different kinds of leather with the most durable and hardest to cut being stingray which also is the most expensive. I dulled a blade cutting 1 watch strap then there is alligator, croco, caiman, buffalo, cow, pig etc. and there are many different ways of tanning the leather. Tanneries can tan the same leather and produce soft or hard leather, leather with a grain etc. Full grain leather is the whole thickness of the leather and is the best. Top grain is the top layer of the leather after it has been split to make it thinner and produces the top grain and suede then there are the various fakes starting with PU leather which utilizes the suede left over from making top grain leather. They basically coat the suede with polyurethane to make it look like leather. If you ever bought a cheap belt and after a month it cracked on the top layer this is what you have. The suede part will hold up but the PU part cracked. then there is leatherette and another form of leather where they take the scraps, grind them up and combine with a glue and I think they call this genuine leather. A leather watch strap that is sewn together would be made from top grain leather on top or alligator or whatever and on the bottom a softer, more comfortable leather such as pigskin. Pigskin can last many years, I have a shoe lined with pigskin that I have for about 20 yrs. I put 5-7km on it daily and its lasted. 
    • Hello everyone, I have a quick question on the video i referenced above. At the end Mark discussion about dynamic poising. He shows seven different positions results but at the end  he just has three which is dial up, Pendant Down and Pendant forward(which im assuming is pendant up). My question is are you only supposed to adjust the watch in other positions to ultimately have these three positions the only ones that matter? Other question is what are the most important positions you should adjust for when it comes to wrist watches and pocket watches? I think I might be spending way to much time worrying about adjusting other positions on watch when i really dont have to be. I also know it all depends on the type of watch but if someone could give me like their general rules when it comes to this that would be great.   Thanks
    • I have this Hamilton 974 pocket watch. It is running strong however the minute hand move stops at 12:05 everytime it is set at 12 o'clock (the watch keeps running after the hand stops). I've replaced the cannon pinion, and the center wheel (center wheel was a tiny bit bent which I thought was the problem). I've watched it running and all of the train wheels are moving but the hands are still stopped. Any ideas?
    • I don't have the tool with me unfortunately but I think all that was there is pictured. I think it is just whatever cutting tool that is described in the images that is missing. The top part of the Mimo tool is separate to the lower part which is labelled 1CR1, and the top part rotates freely on the base. The red balance wheel holders are then placed on the top of the tool. The first image in the patent is a vertical cross section through the two parts of tool, illustrating the bearing surfaces.    
×
×
  • Create New...