We have many, many topics dedicated to cleaning parts. For example, check the the pinned one below:
However I recommend that you use petroleum ether (refined naphta) of laboratory grade, it's cheaply and easily available online and specialized stores. I do not recommend that you use lighter fluid, as it's made to burn, not to clean, it contains perfumes and other additives that do not belong to watch repairing.You can buy an U/C cleaner very cheaply, but consider that is not mandatory at all, watches were perfectly serviced even before it was widely available.
We should consider that the OP has practiced already on Chinese mov't, and that is certainly a starting point. What we don't know how well they run, since he mention he has "high-end" tools but not a timegrapher, in hardware or software form. I mention that since I think it's an important benchmark to pass before moving up the scale of complexity.
Anyway my first and foremost tips to beginner is: when in presence (even just suspected) of springs of any type, work within a clear plastic bag.
Opened the first of my new Timex's and I discovered the automatic works has fallen away from the movement because the 2 retaining screws had come undone. Question for @JerseyMo, was this one manufactured in 1958?
Welcome to a great group of like minded old men (probably). We have 2 cats and a dog. Luckily I use a roll top desk for my watches. I dust the Tambour door before I open it and make sure all my parts are in dust cover trays until I’m ready to install them. Also, I have to wash my hands before I start. It is very much like surgery. I may be a bit over compensating, but it works pretty well. Dust trays are relatively cheap. You could use a sheet of tissue paper or similar to cover your work area while you are away. I’ve had watches stop on me only to to open them up days later to pull a very fine hair out of the works. Keep trying. You will find something that works for you and it doesn’t have to cost a mint. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk